Kilian Fischhuber

"It would be nice if you could put many pictures to the interview. It makes it more readerfriendly." Foto Giulio Malfer

Last night, we got the Boulder World Cup results stating that Kilian Fischhuber had won the Cup in 2005. I picked up his personal card, which he gave me at the worlds in Munich, where he got the boulder silver, and this is our three hours correspondance through eight e-mails. 

The questions in reverse order as I guess it is the most interesting to get the boulder champ's power secret first. Whether it is a joke or not I can not tell. It is up to you to decide!

How do you train power on the campus board? Any programme?
Last year in spring I did a lot on the campus board but then I got injured (inflamation near the ringband on two fingers) and I think it might be from that. This year I trained a little bit on the campus board and it was not good for my fingers again. I think one has to be really careful if one choses that kind of training! My usual programme consisted mainly of short up or downs (not more than 6 moves). I also trained negative dynamic and intramuscular coordination with twice my weight. One of my exercises works as follows: I hang on the board, armes half bent, my girlfriend Verena on my back. I go slowly down until my armes are almost stretched and then I say: "go", she lets go abbruptly and I try to speed up as fast as possible and as high as possible.

What is your best tip for climbers who want to get stronger?
I think the key to success is to keep your motivation high. You have to learn to see the positive aspects of drawbacks and to make the best out of triumphs. Don't train with the same system too long and try to go on the rock as often as possible. Climbing a route or a boulder on rock is always different and it will never get boring. Set yourself reachable goals and be
happy with your achievements. I know that this statement doesn't go into detail very much but it is not easy or useful to make a comment on how someone can improve when I don't know him or her. For better tips I should talk to the climber personally. You find my e-mail address on my homepage. Don't hesitate to ask!

Who is your trainer and how do you decide your training program?

Underground, 8c+ Foto: Reini Fichtinger

Bouldern Ailefroide - Frankreich 2003 (Foto: Reini Fichtinger)

Afrika 2002 (Foto: Hermann Erber)

I used to have a trainer for two years but I am training alone again since more than 3 years. I also don't really have a plan for my training but I try to follow a certain pattern which is good for me. I study sports and know enough about the aspects of training to train successfully.

What do you like most in the two disciplines?
This is a tough question and sometimes I find myself in a situation where I can't find an answer because I would prefer to do both at the same time. However, I'll try: In bouldering I like the simplicity and the flexibility. When you come to a boulder area you just walk to the first block you would like to climb, put down your crash pad and go full throttle. When you've had enough (done or not) you just move on to another nice line. In route climbing I like the air under me and the fact that you have to keep cool after you have done, let's say 20 moves and the crux is still ahead of you. Both are a combination of physical and mental strength and lots of fun.

What is your next goal?
I am somehow sorry that the boulder comps are over for this year but I am also happy to have enough time now to climb on rock. Throughout the summer I climbed a lot on rock and it was not so easy for me to go back to the gym in September to prepare for Firminy. I definitely want to try some hard routes this fall but I have no real plans or wishes so I just let it come.


Which is the best crag in the world and Austria?
For me there doesn't exist a best area. Every crag is somehow different from the other and that's what makes it interesting to travel and enjoy all the styles there are. Among some nice areas I would name: Ceüse, Frankenjura, Zillertal and Ötztal. For bouldering my favourites are: , Hueco and Cresciano


Why do you think there are so many top climbers from Innsbruck?
I think Innsbruck is just perfect for climbers! There is a good gym and Imst just 40 min away and within two hours you can be in some of the top climbing areas in . Besides that there is a huge climbing community which makes climbing really fun!


How is it to be the best boulderer in the world?
I would never consider myself to be the best boulderer of the World. Nevertheless, you can say that I had a good season on rock (routes) and in boulder competitions and my title of the overall winner in bouldering shows that I was the most consistant competition climber this season. Last year I won two events, got injured later and could finish "only" with the second place. This year's payback feels great!

So do you you want to be an 8a member
I have to think about that... ;)