Vertical-Life
Juliette Danion
Juliette Danion just won the third stage of the bouldering World Cup 2006 in Rovereto (Italy). (Translation by Jean-Baptiste Jourjon - French version available on www.Kairn.com)
KC: You participated in the first ever World Cup in Benasque-99. What do you think has changed since then, regarding atmosphere, rules, show and professionalism?
JD: I am not sure since this was a long time ago and I was young and it was my first big competition. I would say that the organisation and professionalism have evolved in a good way. The scene appears more serious today, even if it varies depending on the country that arranges the comp. More resources are spend on making it attractive to the public. Besides, the new rules with 6 finalists climbing one at a time is great for the audience. In addition, people can sit, the boulders are raised and the spotlights participate in the "show".
KC: You disappeared from the circuits for a while, did you stop climbing? Were you fed up with competing?
JD: I didn´t stop climbing, but I stopped competing for 4 years. In fact, I enjoyed the boulder competitions in 99 when I started, but then I moved to the south of France and I became more attracted by crags! Also, at this time, I was not satisfied with my performances in the competitions since I rarely reached the finals.
KC: For two years now, you´ve been getting stronger and stronger and now you win a World Cup stage. What has changed?
JD: I returned to competition by chance: I took part in the open at l´Argentière for fun and I noticed that I had become stronger. After this I continued, which motivated me to do more and more bouldering. Before this I was almost only climbing at crags.
KC: What is your objective for this year, the title?
JD: I don´t think I can win the title, Olga Bibik is too far ahead of me. On the other hand, why not a podium?
KC: You´re quite tall. Do you think it´s an important advantage in bouldering compared to your smaller opponents?
JD: Indeed I´m 179cm tall and most often the other competitors are smaller. It gives me an advantage on vertical climbs. But as soon as you have overhangs or roofs and mantles, I feel disadvantaged because of my weight and long cumbersome! In a discussion at Rovereto with the chief trailmaker, Laurent Laporte, we both agreed that the advantages and disadvantages of height compensate on a circuit thanks to the diversity of the problems.
KC: Bouldering competition rules changed this year. What is your opinion on this?
JD: From the climbers point of view, it´s more tiredsome and more stressful because of the semi, where no mistakes are allowed. But it is also more interesting. And in the final, the public can cheer on each climber exclusively, that´s quite motivating! From the audience point of view, according to what I´ve been told, the show has improved but there remains things to be done. For instance, there should be a screen that show the results, which are automatically updated.
KC: Angela Eiter and Tomas Mrazek decided to compete in both lead and boulder circuits. They seem to come trough quite well. Do you think they can make the double?
JD: It´s true they come trough very well, I admire this. But the schedule won´t allow them to participate in each stage in both disciplines. It´s a pity because they have good chances. But they will surely be present for the European Championships !
KC: Do you fell a desire of competing in lead?
JD: Yes I feel like doing it because I love climbing in crags and the effort you have in long routes but I will never do both because I lack time. If I have to choose, I prefer bouldering competitions, it´s much more recreational and training is less restrictive.