James Pearson reports from Mt Kinabalu

By James Pearson

Carline Ciavaldini, James Pearson and Yuji Hirayama

Daniel Woods on the top crux of Tinipi, 9a+

Yuji resting before the crux on Pogulian Do Koduduo, 9a

In 2003 Yuji Hirayama first visited Mount Kinabalu after seeing a tiny photo of the wildly overhanging Oyayubi peak.  Inspired by that single picture, Yuji would discover a landscape like nothing else on earth, a playground for free-climbing, with the hardest high-altitude routes just waiting to be discovered.

Over the years to come Yuji would visit Kinabalu several times, bolting his dream line on Oyayubi and establishing other sport and traditional climbs on the nearby peaks and spires.  Despite his best efforts, the project on Oyayubi remained unclimbed, yet regardless of the often bad weather and difficult living conditions, Yuji had fallen in love and vowed to return someday to finish what he had dreamt of for so long.

On the 12^th of June 2012 Yuji began the journey back towards the summit, this time accompanied by Caroline Ciavaldini, James Pearson, and Daniel Woods.  Inspired by Yuji’s stories and vision, the young team was hoping to discover and create their own dream lines, as well as help Yuji in finally realizing his.

The team spent 18 days living close to the summit in one of the mountains many huts, each day making the 1 hour hike towards the summit plateau to climb, bolt, and explore.  With so much virgin rock forming such wild and varied formations, the final selection of routes could not be more different, representing the individual styles and strengths of their creators.  Blessed with unusually stable weather, the team was able to climb every day, resulting in the opening over 20 new routes up to Fr9a+. 

Highlights include:

Caroline Ciavaldini – Apuri Manan Fr8b and Alanga 120m 3 pitch Fr8b

Yuji Hirayama - Pogulian Do Koduduo Fr9a and Metis 120m 5 pitch E6 6b / 5.12r

James Pearson – Excalibur Fr8c+ and a flash of Alanga 120m 3 pitch Fr8b

Daniel Woods – Tinipi Fr9a+ and Enter The Void Fr8c

 “Part of me wondered what the hell I was doing here.  I got scared, tired, wet, but I came out happy and proud to have been part of this.” Caroline Ciavaldini

“It was so hard to link all the way to the summit but I just did it.  I didn’t have any words to say it, but dream line had just become true!” Yuji Hirayama

“Kinabalu has been my best ever expedition, uniquely combining excellent climbing with a stunning location.  I can’t wait to return…” James Pearson

“It’s like climbing on the moon – so many amazing features and formations.  Just don’t forget your sunscreen!” Daniel  Woods

In addition to the hard routes, the team also spent time equipping the many perfect easier features to leave a selection of walls, arêtes and cracks that would be 3* routes anywhere in the world.  Sunset Café, a route up the front face of the East Donkey Ear being especially good, and according to one member, must surely be a contender for the best 5.10 in the world.

Due to its location and surroundings, climbing on Mt Kinabalu takes a little planning and organization, but thanks to the help of local Adventure Tourism Operators things are now a lot simpler than they previously would have been.  From Kota Kinabalu, the capital city of the Sabah region, your operator will drive you two hours to Kinabalu park HQ where you will register your presence on the mountain with the authorities.  Once all the paperwork is finished you will be provided with a name tag and a mountain guide, and start your journey up the ¾ height huts where you will spend your first night. 

Here is where things become a little more complicated, as regular tourists usually spend only one night on the mountain before reaching the summit and descending the following day.  In order to stay for longer periods, you will need to choose an operator like Mountain Torq who have their own accommodation and understand the special needs of climbers.  For more information about Climbing on Mt Kinabalu, contact Mountain Torq in Kota Kinabalu.