21 August 2005

How many 9a's routes are really harder than 8c+?

How are the 9a routes determined and confirmed?

The method of grading and confirming easier routes is rather simple:
Everyone that has repeated a route can confirm or disagree of the grade suggested by the First Ascensionist (FA). Little by little, and based on these opinions and the "scorecard" of these climbers, the grade of the route gets consolidated (or downgraded)

The problem is that in routes of high level, this method is clearly "inflationary". Why?

1. In what other sports is it the sportsmen themselves that rate of their performances?
2. Who will have the courage of  lessening his performace downgrading the route?
3. And if your sponsorship depends upon your rock results? (material, money, awards ...)
4. And knowing that downgrading the route means also downgrading other repeaters "scorecard" ? (probably friends) 

All the factors seem to back the standpoint tat the hardest routes are clearly overgraded or at least rarely downgraded. Very few are the climbers who are brave enough to reduce their curriculum, downgrading the routes they have done. Some honorable exceptions:

David Graham thinks that Bain de Sang (9a) is 8c+
Nicolas Favresse thinks the same about Critical State (Siurana, 9a)
Yuji Hirayama in his onsight of Kombat Mortal (8c) downgraded to 8b+ (8b today) 
Elfe (9a/9a+) has gone down to 8c


OK, the grading method is clearly "inflationary" but is there any alternative? Opinions? Comments?

Comments by 8a
We do think, as Oskar, that there is a grading inflation that is going down and we have written about it before by doing a metaphor with the fairy tale of The emporer's new clothes. Based on facts, we can see that some 50 % of the hardest boulders have been downgraded in Magic Wood etc.

The 8a scorecard systems link all routes and boulders that have been registered with different grades. Italic links means that other have suggested a higher grade and bold means the opposite. In other words, you want a scorecard with bold links as this means that you are brave and humble with your grading.

8a have six comments of the article by Oskar.
   1. Confirmation of grading can and should also be done by climbers who could not do the climb. The
    confirmation of a 9a etc, is in fact based upon unsuccesfull attempts. As soon it is repeated, the grade could be
   questioned.
   2. Downgrading is foremost the case when there are many climbers with a personal best of the grade.
   3. The FA should not only base the grade of his/her feeling. He/she should also have in mind what the
   community, who could be taller, have smaller fingers etc, would think.
   4. New projects often seem to be harder than the climb or FA you did after 30 tries. This does not mean that the
    new project is harder, only different, and your muscles and technique have to be adopted.
   5. Grades in topos are not facts only suggestions. The 8a database could help author of topos with grades. In
   many cases the grades suggested by the 8a community is more correct than the topo. Check for example
   the topo of Kalymnos which on average is almost one grade too high.
   6. Routes/boulders should be upgraded if they stay unrepeated, in spite of many attempts, for a long period. 

We and Oskar are looking forward to your comments!

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