Florent Wolff - Interview

Florent Wolff links his first 8c

- Interview by Laurent Zoutte 24/10/2007. Translation French to English by Marie Sunde. -

The Alsatian Florent Wolff, known by many through his work as chief editor for EscaladeMag climbing magazine, is also a strong climber. Registered on 8a.nu for a long time, he particularly distinguished himself last week by making the third ascent of Dédale. This route, freed last september by Pierre Bollinger, is no less than the direct version of Monument hystérique, the first Alsatian 8b, freed in 1992 by Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu. Whereas Pierre proposed the route to be 8b+/c, Julien Panigot who linked it two days before, think that 8c would be more just. Cautious as Alsatian climbers may be when it comes to gradings, they await the opinions of the next repeaters to refine all that... But Florent is formal, "what is sure is that it's harder than all the 8b+'s I've done so far." Florent agreed to answer our questions following his ascent: 8a.nu - What did you feel just after linking Dédale? A liberation after so many tries falling at the last move! After some ten work sessions (over seven weeks) I started to get tired. The failures proved not to be useful any more. It became difficult to keep motivated. 8a.nu - Was it stronger than usually and why? Yes, because I knew I hadn't linked anything that hard before. That said, last month I relived a moment at least as intense with the link-up of Total Brutal in the Austrian Alps, in weather conditions where even an Alsatian would want to stay home!

Associés direct, 7c+, Windstein - Photo © Mathieu Provost

8a.nu - What does it mean to you to reach this grade?
I first need to specify that I don't have a definite opinion on the grade. After 4 sessions in the route, Pierre Bollinger did the first ascent and finally announced 8b+/c, after much hesitation. Later he admitted to us that he found Dédale to be harder than Enfant de Bohème (8c in the Basle Jura). Julien Panigot did the first repetition two days before me and reevaluated the grade to be 8c. We'll have to wait for the opinions of the next ascentionnists for the grade to stabilize.

8a.nu - Was it one of your objectives?
Yes, the main of this homecoming!

8a.nu - Is a dream coming true? Perspectives opening?
Every time I link a project a dream comes true. Perspectives: yes, in the sense that I'll be able to move on to other routes.

8a.nu - One week after, how do you digest the moment (alcohol included…)?
I celebrated well my ascent, now I have to remobilize because I have many other projects that motivate me!

La ruelle, 8b, Grotte du Brotsch - Photo © Thibault Pawlas	Rabies, 7a, Fjällbo, Sweden - Photo © Pierre Bollinger

8a.nu - Your involvment in the edition of EscaladeMag, is it in a certain way an extra motivation source when you're climbing?
No, they're two different things. My work has only little to do with my climbing. This so as all the more EscaladeMag doesn't (or almost doesn't) address climbing's "performance" aspect.

8a.nu - This year you particularly filled up your tick list in the eighth grade (a multitude of 8a's and 8a+'s, seven 8b's, one 8b+, one 8c,...). What has changed?
First, there has been a new wave of equipping with new difficult routes to try, mainly in the roof of Kronthal and at the new crag at Gauxberg. It's thus to thank Armand, Didier and Yann, very active and inspired equippers!

8a.nu - You and Julien, you're being caught in the act of "inflation" in choosing the "high" number. Is a new era opening in Alsace?
Without repeating myself on gradings, I just need to mention that if I noted this route as 8c, it's simply be because I estimate its difficulty to be closer to 8c than 8b+.

8a.nu - Haven't we seen 9a blooming at Kronthal?...
Yes, opened by Julius Westphal, a young German mutant! An extreme route that, in my opinion, is not close to be downgraded... But Pierre didn't say his last word and it's not impossible that the door to the ninth grade opens again in Alsace this year…

An intact and even increasing passion for climbing, to avoid injuries, to make nice trips. And as a bonus: to continue to progress!

Florent's web site: outreocean.free.fr

	Total Brutal, 8b+, Zillertal, Autriche.  Photo © Thibault Pawlas

The live video of Florent in Total Brutal 8b+  : http://www.escalade-alsace.com/bddpv/bddpv_video.php?pid=285