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 By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2010-11-30  | Category: Tips & Tricks    | Comment  
Part 3 of 3: Finger Power Training - Finger pull-ups  (13)

Click to Enlarge PictureTraining/Jens: The finger pull-up exercise is only for the advanced climbers as it stresses your tendons etc extremely. It works fine on a campus board where you can adjust the weight by standing on your feet. It aims to give an extreme finger work out and also to learn how to adjust your open hand grip into a open crimp which is essential as you get tired and land in open hand in the end of your climbs.

Hang with both hands in open hand and do a pull-up reaching open crimp. Go back to open hand with one hand at the time and repeat 10 - 15 times. Rest 4 - 6 minutes and do 4 - 8 sessions. You should not get pumped and stop once the performance declines. Before you start the finger pull-up exercise you should be fully recruited, see part 1 and 2.