Dani Andrada

Dani Andrada in short

Born 1975 in Madrid - Spain

3 000 climbing days since -95

2 000 8a & 8A's: 50 % First A.

Speed World Champion

2 Boulder World Cups

60 pull-ups, 9 one arms

Sponors: Boreal, Petzl & Beal

#2 in 8a world ranking

Totally exhausted, dinner is coming up and then I am off to bed at Andrada's house. Dani's eyes check his guests and before I have finished he smiles - Venga! Let's do a night session! Next morning it's still snowing as it has done three days in a row and I sleep untill lunch. Big rest day is coming up.

After breakfast Dani seems a bit restless and he suggest going out and just look at the crag. It's like a snowstorm and freezing cold and even beeing a Swedish Viking, this is a peronal record for me at the crag. As I stand thinking of snow angels Dany starts pointing. - 8c, 8a, 8b+, 9a... Do you want to try?

Dani on Meneo Canario, 8b - Cenovio Pic: Desnivel

What does "climbing" mean to you?
It is what I've been doing more than a half of my life. My passion. Climbing has really taught me a lot.

Are you still as motivated as in your first days?
I do not have the same motivation, now I'm looking for some other things like meeting people, knowing places, bolting new routes…

What is your actual project?
It is to send hard stuff. I do have some 9's in mind like A muerte 9a?, La Rambla 9a+, Akira 9b?... I want to bolt nice routes and travel a lot.

How do you finance your climbing?
I've been climbing exclusively for the last 10 years. I am sponsored by Boreal, Petzl and Beal. Apart from this, from time to time, I work a little when I open the routes in competitions or when I make slides projections. I was an agent for a clothes brand some years ago and now, I own another brand of climbing clothes with Andoni Pérez… we go slowly with this, it is called Blomu -bloka o muere- . At the moment we sponsor myself and my girlfriend Daila Ojeda.

What is your hardest redpoint ever? And onsight?
Hardest route is Broadway 8c+/9a which I personally think is 9a and Seleció Natural that I also propose as 9a. On sight: Taladrina, 8b+ in Cuenca in 2004 and Caimada, 8b+ in Villanueva del Rosario (Andalucía) in 2002. Boulders: Up to 8B and 8A flash.

First Ascent of Seleciò Natural, 9a - Santa Linya Picture: Jose Maria Casals

Tell me what is a perfect day for you
This is going to the countryside with your friends, bolting a nice new route, sending some project…summing up, live well.

Tell me in a few words something about...
La Rambla, 9a+: It's a psychological barrier… but, I'll do it this year, ha, ha...
Chilam Balam, 9b+: The hardest and more beautiful route I've ever tried.
Akira, 9b: It's controversial. Interesting movements. It's like a long boulder problem.
Seleció Natural, 9a: It's a new route in a new spot, this really motivates. It's a really nice route.

Concerning competitions, what do they mean for you now and what about competing in 2005?
It was a stage in what you learn a lot psychologically. They were really motivating for me. Now it's different, very specialized… I take them like a game. I will go to some, either for route setting as well as for competing.

Any recommendation for someone trying to get his/her first 8a?
I would recommend him/her to settle the grade. Now it seems everybody wants to go too fast. When I sent my first 8a redpoint, I had already onsighted 7c+. I think that apart from training, climbing is a sport where you get better every single year, even if it is only in a technical way.

Will there be "life" after climbing?
Of course… but short and boring!