GO TO GLOBAL SITE   se es us fr za it
de ca au no
at br ru ch
gb pl nl sk
Home | News | Videos | Articles | Gallery | Crags | Gyms | Search - Tick List | Forum | Ranking | Blogs | Contact | New Member
 By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2010-02-19  | Category: Tips & Tricks    | Comment  

Crux moves optimization   (2) 19/12/09

Training/Jens: Falling at the same crux all the time? Write a note and put it in your chalk bag and you will get reminded. Please comment also for specific questions,

1. Physical Focus - Recruit Muscles
Recruit muscles at the upper part of the move. While falling, the muscles learn how to fail. You could use rope drag or that somebody pushes your back, taking some load of in order to recruit your muscles to complete the move. Another option is to practice by keeping the hands on the start holds and lock-of.

2. Mental Focus - Lower Hand/Bending arm/Knee-drop
Practicing yoga, you are supposed to think of specific parts of your body and relax. Instead mentally visualize taking the next move, you could have all focus on The lower hand, (maintaining the gripping position), Bending the arms or doing the Knee-drop. Start by actually looking at your fingers, arms or knees.

3. Technical Focus - Balance
Hard moves always includes balance, body position and the sideways/pull-in curve. Focus to find strong positions in the move by moving your body or opt for balance by letting one hand go.