Barbara Raudner about 'Mind Control', 8c (+)

BARBARA RAUDNER about 'Mind Control', 8c (+) in Oliana

Pic: schroedel.at

Pic: Hannes Raudner-Hiebler Photography.

Pic: Hannes Raudner-Hiebler Photography.

- How much/long did it take you?

I started working Mind Control during our trip in December, my friend Daila Ojeda encouraged me for it. I was immediately psyched for this amazing line! 

In February, I was already super close to send, the day when Adam Ondra did la Dura Dura 9b+ and Andrea Cartas sent Fish Eye 8c. After I fell a few times on the very last moves before going home to Austria again.

I returned in March, but at that time the top tufa was totally wet (and stayed so for weeks), the weather tested me and I needed a lot of patience until the route dried.

- How did you feel once you clipped the anchor?

It was such a big satisfaction to clip this anchor, I was totally stoked!! Also it was very nice to celebrate this event after with a great community of friends who were happy for me too.    

- What was the hardest part you had to tickle with in the route?

For me, the hardest part was the link of the very small holds just before the first rest in the middle of the route, the bottom crux section. You have to climb these 16 pumpy moves very concentrated and fast. The powerful crux cross move near the top suited me very well.

- I think you've been spending quite a few time climbing in Spain this last year... Did you take off your job? How does it feel just climbing? How do you like Spain in general and climbing in special in comparison with Austria? What are the crags you've visited so far and what's your favourite? Do you plan to visit any other areas?

Yes, I have spent quite a few time in Spain since last year, because Hannes and I really love this country.

In the past I have been working 17 years for the European Commission, in the Public Relations Section, very interesting but also quite stressful. In November I quit my job, I wanted to reduce my working hours, but unfortunately this was not possible.

You have only one life, so you have to enjoy it and to live in the present! Actually I am climbing a lot, which feels really great, besides I started to work as a free-lance teacher for climbing and for foreign languages (Italian, French).

Things in Spain run a bit slower when compared to Austria ... I like living in both cultures. The climbing community in Spain is very welcoming and heartfelt, this is really amazing! Also there are so many strong Spanish (and off course from other nations) female rock climbers in that region with whom to climb is very inspiring ... Daila Ojeda, Andrea Cartas, Teresa Troya Gil, Berta Martin, Marieta Cartrò ... just to mention a few. The atmosphere at the rock was always full of positive energy with these great ladies.

Spanish rock seems endless and the routes, I climbed so far, are all 5 stars quality. Thanks to all the persons who bolted these lines. I have spent most of time in Oliana (which is my favorite) and climbed also in Margalef, Terradets, Tres Ponts, Perles, Santa Linya and Rodellar.

This summer I would like to visit the area around Asturias or the Basque Country, also I want to go to Andalucia next winter, but I do not yet have fixed plans. I just want to enjoy life, rock climbing with good friends around, challenging nice projects @climbing (as well as @working), and having fun!!

Barbara Raudner & Daila Ojeda. Pic: Hannes Raudner-Hiebler