Adam Pustelnik
Fun and pleasure - Adam Pustelnik
 Doing Raubritter 8c, (second try) in Frankenjura |
When most of us think about Polish climbers, we think of hard core alpinists (Pustelniks father is actually one of them), trad climbers soloing lose 8b's in their flip-flops or rude guys screaming "kurva" at the crags. Sure, Poland has it's fair share of these hardmen, but that's not the whole truth, far from it. If we look at the statistics Poland is one of the leading countries in the world when it comes to sport climbing, with more than a dozen climbers who have sent 8c or harder. By sending no less than four 8c's in a month including a fastest ever ascent of Wallstreet, Adam Pustelnik is a serious contender for the number one position in Poland. So, who is this 19 year old? You'd think he's an everything but laid back training freak. That's pretty far from the truth... At the Swedish/Australian camp in Frankenjura he was simply known as "the Polish guy with the funky hair"... We asked him to tell us a little about himself and his life:
At the beginning of July this year I passed the exams to the university where I'm going to study Sociology for the next 5 years. I find that as one of my biggest personal successes, because I didn't believe people could climb good combined with studying as well. Due to that, I have now got three months of vacation. My hometown is the city of Lodz, the second biggest city in Poland but not as well known, or popular, as many other. It is a very industrial city which is known for the variety of pubs and clubs in its main street.
During the day it's rather nasty and boring but the night life has its special and unusual climate which I like very much. Hanging out on friday nights tends to be one of the best things in it. Besides that, I don't have a strong head on alcohol due to not being exactly huge and after only one beer I'm able to find just the right feeling. I'm also a member of a local climing club in which we have a group of friends going out on trips and things like that. But the people I tend to party with are mostly my friends from school and my girlfriend. I guess it is that way because I can talk with them not only about climbing.
Ah, I've almost forgotten about things connected with music. It also plays a big role in my life. It has great influence on my daily humor and mood! I'm very much in for all music that creates an original atmosphere. The best for me are: Massive Attack, Underworld, Ministry, Fugazi, Bob Marley, Rage Against The Machine, all Ska music. Anything else...ah, yes climbing!
I started climbing a long long time ago (now I'm 19 years old). It all began due to my father who took me to the rocks when I was a little child. He is now a very good himalaist, having done ten 8.000m peaks (there only 14, editors note) and maybe that's the reason if the name sound familiar. My first competition diploma is from the year 1989 when I was seven years old. It was a very friendly competition. I started taking climbing more seriously about 6 years ago. I began doing some climbing in the gym during the winter. But it has never been a form of strict training untill this year.
Still I can't arrange myself a hard trainning scheduele and that's because of two reasons. First of all climbing seems to be too much spontanious for me and that gives me much pleasure. Secondly I'm too lazy. The only training I'm very strict in is campusing. It seems to be the best form of getting stronger combined with best fun possible I ever done.That is also why I find Frankenjura and steep climbs on small holds the best. After I started going out to the gym in each year I've had big improvements. In 1997 I did my first two 8a+'s in Poland. In 1998 an 8b/b+ in Poland and an 8b in Osp, Slovenia.
Then in 1999 (the year I had a campus board installed at home) I did two 8a onsights, Inquisition in the Frankenjura and Moi et lui at Ceรผse, and an 8c, Chronique de la haine ordinaire, at Ceuse) and 8b+ redpoints in Poland. The year 2000 was unfortunately not as good as the earlier one but I managed to do Stone Love, 8b+, in the Frankenjura. The plans for the future are to climb as much as possible. I'd like to evolve into a more allround climber. I think that all aspects of climbing from bouldering to big walls are too interesting to stick just to short sport climbs.
In a few days time I'm heading out for big walls in the dolomites and after that for bouldering in Fontainebleau. I'm keen for all types of climbing and I would like to have as much fun possible in all of them.That is also why I find climbing so interesting, it gives the most fun and pleasure of all the things I've ever tried. And the harder you climb the more fun you have.