15 November 2011

Individual training tips

Training/Jens: All climbers are unique when it comes to training background, physics, strength and what we think is fun etc. This means that general advice that are presented on 8a do work differently for every climber. Here is try to give some specific advices for some different kind of climbers.

1. Tall guys up to intermediate level, female and youngsters
Put in some session where you focus on just bending your arms and lock off. Climb with as bent arms as possible to work your biceps and stabilize your body for longer moves.

2. Every session ends in a burning pump
You are at risk for having compartment syndrome meaning that your forearm muscle is to big and has no space in the enclosing fascia. Climb only super easy routes/traverses which will improve your blood circulation, waiting for the fascia to expand. Give your self a hard massage getting out the slag.
 
3. Indoor routes rats aiming to perform outdoors
Create rainbow routes by combining several hard routes into one and focus on shorter moves just as outdoors. Grab the intermediates dynamically and always try to have a tickling gripping technique.

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