By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2011-11-15  | Category: Tips & Tricks    | Comment  
 8a.nu

Training/Jens: Most intermediate climbers could improve very quickly just by learning the hang-dog technique, i.e. using quick draws to bypass cruxes. Often, climbers below 7a struggle during their warm up just to reach the top of a route. All 8a climbers use  quick draws frequently as they start working their first 8a+, meanwhile intermediate climbers are often both mentally and physically exhausted as they reach the anchor on their redpoint project.

Here are some basic hang-dog techniques described in order to more easily reach the next bolt:

1. Always make the knot as close to the harness as possible.
2. Clip the quickdraw directly in your harness and see if it is possible to reach up and clip the next bolt. Alternatively, clip the rope in the upper carabiner and continue to climb.
3. The belayer must keep weight on the rope until you have pushed yourself above the bolt and say, "slack".
4. Clip the next quickdraw and use the webbing as a hold to clip in the rope, or clip in more draws so you can clip in the rope more easily.

8a.nu