By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2010-02-19  | Category: Tips & Tricks    | Comment  
 8a.nu

What makes Adam Ondra unique?   28/05/09
 

Adam Ondra has a unique new style for climbing that is different from other top-climbers and might be a possible explanation why he is better.
1. Technical - He combines speed and precision like how Jorg Verhoeven climbed to win WC 2009. He moves his hands and feet quicker, although with a minimal lock-off, to ensure exact positioning of finger angle and feet for each move. It is like a ticking-clock technique with minimal rest in between.
2. Route-reading - He reads outdoor onsights like an indoor competition climber, including foot holds and clips etc. "I try to have a sequence for the four next moves."
2. Flexibility - Doing knee-drops, highstep and splits as guru Dani Andrada but Adam gets his hip closer to the rock.
3. Screaming - It is like the guttural sound of Sharma. Maybe screaming increases our strength beyond our 100 %.
4. Clipping - Constantly moves quickdraws to next bolt or just skip them. "I prefer to put (short) draws on as I climb."
5. No Trainer/Plan/Anxiety - "I just love climbing and I do not feel any pressure. There is always endless of new challenges and impossible moves to try." Adam has never had any trainer or plan although he says he might do some special training before he goes to the worlds in China.
6. Breathing - As soon as he starts climbing he is like a loud pair of bellows.
7. Short arms - Adam is 181 cm but he has a negative ape-index that makes it easier for him to bend his arms.

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