By: Johan Svensson  | Date: 2007-04-02  | Category: Review    | Comment  
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La Sportiva solution - an evolution in climbing shoes



The Solution (to everything?)*
8a has tried La Sportiva's new shoe the Solution and it is definitely one of the better shoes on the market. It's high quality with almost perfect fit and performance, topped with a cool design. For me they worked well on vertical as well as overhanging climbing. Mark that you may have to go down half a size with this model! The price (Euro 140) is a big downer for poor climbers but perhaps this is compensated for by the longevity of the shoe and the possibility to resole more than twice? For those that can afford it we recommend to try it out. I don't think you will be dissapointed!

La Sportiva's new shoe type, La Sportiva Solution is designed for bouldering and sport climbing and claims to be the solution to better performance shoes. As such it holds several new and interesting innovations. The real treat, however, is the Permanent Power Platform P3, a construction that will have the shoe RETAIN its aggressive form during heavy use and resoling procedures. Furthermore, the shape and new Lock Harness System® ensures a perfect fit independent of foot-shape. There is also a new Lacing System®, which enables optimal adjustment of volume. Vibram supplies a new type of rubber that is supposed to be extra "sticky", though we didn't feel the difference in the cold nordic temperatures.

In retrospective I think the shoe is great but I still go back to the Testarossa when I'm climbing hard. This is because I feel that the sole is almost too "hard" and it takes away some of the "feeling", especially when your climbing on very small footholds. I havn't resoled yet but it seems the structure is resilient to extensive wear and tear. So, the shoe is worth the money but so far I will keep alternating it with the Testarossa.

Colour: Black or Ice
Material: Suede, Lorica®, Lycra
Weight: 450 g
Sole: Vibram XSGrip 3.5 mm
Size: 33-45

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