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 By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2010-02-19  | Category: Tips & Tricks    | Comment  

8a ethical policy on "world records"   (14) 08/12/09

It is just natural that the climbers push the ethics in search of personal best. Over the years we have seen both good and what some call a bad "development" of good practice. The media has a responsibility to give full details whenever the ethics can be questioned otherwise we will just end up of contrived quantitative records instead of remarkable quality lines! 10 quality devaluations.
1. 3-5 carabiners preclipped
2. Training/Downclimbing on onsight/flash
3. Increasing beta on onsights
4. Rappel before flash
5. Pre-placed on trad ascents
6. Adding sit-starts to routes
7. Chipping routes
8. Traverses
9. Eliminates
0. Variations/link-ups