Italian Job - filmed with iphone 6s from Vertical-Axis on Vimeo.

Lukasz Dudek one of the best Polish climbers, has recently done a long 40+ move boulder in Kusięta, Poland. He suggested the grade of 8C for it!

The problem is a combination of an existing boulder and a large, new wall. The new part is the most difficult section. "Obsesja" begins with "Forest Gump 6C, continues with 12 new moves, flows into "Szatańskie Wersety 8A/+, and finishes with "Egzekutor 7B+".

On Alpine Wall Tour Łukasz wrote:
"After about 40-50 days spent on this project I finally managed to join all the moves into one big sequence. For the first time I've had an occasion to face a problem which took me so much time. I don't know how hard it is. I can be only sure that I've come to the end of my physical abilities. Neither in the past nor in the future will I be able to do anything more difficult. The problem took control over my mind, it became an obsession of some kind... I'm glad I'm free now..."

It is good to note that the name of this Boulder, "Obsesja", means Obsession in Polish.

Łukasz maintains the lead in the Polish climbing community for the last few years. He does the hardest routes and deals with myths (Pandemonium).
He is a multi-talented climber, who has done some difficult multi-pitch routes as well (End of Silence, Kaisers neue Kleider, Brento Centro, Silbergeier, Bellavista).

For years Łukasz has climbed in Poland, too, where he finds ever new challenges, as it is easy to see. Congratulations!!!

source: wspinanie.pl
photo: Jacek Matuszek
translation: D.

Gimme Kraft! feat. Shauna Coxsey & Alex Megos from cafekraft on Vimeo.

Alex Megos reports two more world class ascents on Facebook, "BÄÄÄM! Did "Demencia Senil" (9a+) on my 2nd try today!!! Once checked it out till the 3rd bolt 2 years ago but felt too hard. Today I checked it out the whole way up and did it in the go after! Huge fight! Had a great couple of days here in Margalef with yesterday, where I did my FIRST 8c+ ONSIGHT! "Victimes del Passat"!!!

Loic Zehani has done the FA of Carnaval 9a in Cevennes. The route, which is a link up of two 8b+'s, took him seven sessions. The 14-year-old has done one 9a previously and gave it a personal grade of 8c+. "The route is an amazing big overhang (20 meters with 12 meters of overhang). The first pitch was bolted by Jean-Marc Oberli (8b+).This part is almost in roof with crimpy crux and a hard part with little tufas and the second pitch was bolted by my father (It is 8b+ too but with many two fingers Pocket in very big overhang). There is no rest beetween. The difficulty of the route is the big level of stamina. I am so happy because during the last days I think about this route all the time...even at the school!

Ashima Shiraishi reported on Instagram that she had sent Terre de Sienne during her first day in Hueco Tanks. It was set up by Fred Nicole as a hard 8B+ but now it is considered an 8B. She also made a quick ascent of Diaphanous Sea 8A. The 14-year-old sent one 8B+ boulder previously (UKC reports four) and one 9a+ sport route. In fact, Ashima has had the most impressive combined female tick list for the last two years. It should be noted, originally both of these great boulders had a higher grade, however, we are reporting the consensus 8a grade.

Fanatic climbing reports on Facebook that Carole Palmier has done her first 8c+, La Rubia in Vilanueva del Rosario.
Photo: Henning Wang / Madskills Media "I'm so glad to have sent "La rubia", for me one of the nicest routes of Spain, bolted by Christian Lupion. I was dreaming about this line all the year et after 2 weeks of hard work I did it finally. It's a 50 meters routes in the Chilam balam cave.

Sherpa (2015) Official Trailer from Felix Media on Vimeo.

Makoto Yamauchi and Ryuichi Murai, two of the most promising Japanese boulderers, have signed up. Both 21-year-old have done Dai Koyamada's Orochi 8C in Konoto out of which Makoto did it in second go. Ryuichi is #16 and Makoto, on the picture, #22 in the ranking game and they are a part of the new generation of highly motivated and super strong Japanese climbers. It might be that within three years there will be 20 Japaneses doing 8C's.