Gabri Moroni reports on Instagram that he has done Chris Sharma's Practice of the Wild 8C in Magic Wood, to which he gives a personal 8B+ grade, commenting. "Took me 2 days. 1 quick session a week ago and another full day of work today. And I basically did it twice for a little dab on the try before the send. I know I am in my best form ever but I didn't feel this thing to be 8C..." It should be mentioned that six out of seven repeaters have all marked it soft and many have it as a personal best. Furthermore, Gabri was the first who gave a personal grade to Mind Control, upon which most agree now.

Tina Hafsaas - STEINBUKKEN 8A+ from Thilo Schröter on Vimeo.

Thilo Schröter - SLOPESTYLE 8B from Thilo Schröter on Vimeo.

Stefano Ghisolfi together with Jenny Lavarda won the 13th Melloblocco (results). Stefano shares some comments on the world's biggest Bouldering meeting. (c) Claudio Piscina - I think this was one of the best edition, four sunny days and a lot of people. The boulders were really cool, and a bit harder than previous years, the organization was perfect all days. There were 12 competition boulders, more than the past years, so climbers had the possibility to climb more on problems set (brushed and cleaned) by Simone Pedeferri during the past months. There were 2800 participants and the valley was full of people. EpicTV will release soon a video with interviews and climbing during these days. During the evenings were presented many videos from Jorg Verhoeven, Mauro Calibani, Stefano Ghisolfi, Silvio Reffo, Simone Pedeferri, and people had great fun. Noteworthy is that a local newspaper reported that the police had found drugs in 16 out of 23 Melloblocco "suspicious faces'" cars on Saturday night.

Loic Zehani, who did one 9a FA about six months ago, has done his second 8c+, Bronx in Orgon. The 14-year-old needed 20 tries to do the classical chipped route, which was the first 8c+ in France.

Alexander Rohr, who did a personal best of 8b+ 18 months ago, has done his second 9a, Ultime Souffrance in St Loup. - What a day!!! Really not expected send..... I messed it up four times in the very last move of the hard part. Good mindset and bäääm!!! This one is much harder than Non a la bombe.... The 8a/8a+ boulder in the start shreds your forearms and bodytension. With it, the easier mid-part feels already harder. Linking the last boulderproblem felt quite impossible while the first tries. But now i was lucky although the conditions were not this good....2nd ascent... Super happy!!

Tina Johnsen Hafsaas, who started training in February after 15 months of fighting with Mononucleosis, (a virus that causes extreme fatigue), has lately made great progress in Bouldering and also done her first 8A+, Steinbucken in Dirdal. - It was incredibly cool to send this boulder. I’m still exploring what bouldering is, and I think this was my kind of boulder - steep and powerful on small holds. I haven’t bouldered much outside and I recently did my first 8A. After my send of Lynx 8A I was psyched to figure out what my maximum level really is, it felt so easy when I sent it that I couldn’t believe this was my limit. After 15 months with mononucleosis it’s hard to describe how good it feels to explore my limits and do what I love. After nine hours in the car my body was not interested in climbing, but I still managed to figure out and do all the moves the first day. When I returned the next day everything felt easier and I sent it without much trouble. I expected to fall at least once at the top due to my lack of maximum endurance, but I didn’t. Once I passed the last hard move I sent it, and it feels amazing to have a body that’s working again and that my training is paying off. Still psyched to explore my limits and in three week I’ll be in Rocklands!