Ana Belen Argudo FAโ€™s Jai-Alai (9a)
Ana Belen Argudo, with four 9aโ€™s under her belt, has done the first ascent of Jai-Alai (9a) in Margalef, after projecting it for some 15 sessions. (c) Jaume Cebolla Vincent

Can you tell us more about your FA?
Earlier this year, we spent a lot of time climbing in ร€tic โ€” the name comes from it being the highest sector in Margalef. Because of the long approach [30 minutes], very few climbers go there. But it features a high-quality vertical wall with around 10โ€“12 routes in the 7th grade, and a steep wall with four hard routes: two first ascended by Iker Pou, and two still unrepeated (at that moment)

I started by repeating the two routes climbed by Iker: Esclavos de las Redes (8c/+), which he also bolted, and Pelotari (8c+), bolted by Vicent Palau. After that, I focused on the two lines further to the right, both bolted by Iker and, at that time, still without any ascents โ€” Jai Alai, and another one that hadnโ€™t even been cleaned yet and didnโ€™t have a name.

I spoke with Iker, and he encouraged me to try both โ€” and even to finish cleaning the unnamed route. But he especially recommended Jai Alai. He told me it would be very hard โ€” around 9a+ โ€” but an amazing line. I felt intimidated, but I gave it a tryโ€ฆ and instantly fell in love. The style suits me perfectly: super steep, around 20 moves with no rests, on shallow two-finger pockets.

The mental side was the most demanding. If I wasnโ€™t 100% focused, I couldnโ€™t even get a proper attempt โ€” the route demanded everything from me. It was the first time on a project that I would head back to the van without having done the crux even once, not even in isolation.

We filmed the whole process and are now working on a film to share how special this journey was for me. Now itโ€™s time for others to get psyched and try this incredible route.

Hereโ€™s a video from our YouTube channel that gives you a first look at Jai Alai, and also the unnamed project. While working on Jai Alai, I got motivated to clean the other route as well and even gave it a few tries. But in the end, I had to fully focus on Jai Alai, as it was so demanding it required 100% of my energy.

Top 100 Onsight Ranking Game
Leonardo Meggiolaro is the number one counting the Top 100 Onsights the last year. โ€ For me, onsight climbing is the purest and most authentic form of climbinโ€ฆ
Ida Schwenk ticks Mondo Frizzante (8A+)
Ida Schwenk, a 30-year-old Italian teacher with two 8A ascents to her name, has successfully climbed Mondo Frizzante (8A+) at Monte Amiata.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The line was first climbed by Paolo Vangi and is a variation of Mondo Bastardo, a beautiful and famous 8b, with which it shares the first part of the boulder. Even if this area is quite close, I had never tried to approach this line because I always thought it was too hard for me. About a month ago I went with a friend who wanted to try Mondo Bastardo and so, a bit for fun, I also tried the first moves. Immediately I felt it doable, even if very hard... but the next day, as often happens with hard boulders, I could not do even one move! Two weeks later I decided to try the boulder again and in the space of three tries I found myself on top of the rock. Saying that it was unexpected is an understatement!

Can you describe your climbing background?
I started climbing when I was 10, in Venice, not exactly a city famous for its mountains! After trying different sports I immediately understood that climbing was the right thing for me and over time it became much more than a simple sport. Initially I took part in many youth competitions, even entering the Italian youth national team for several years. I had a lot of fun and after moving to Florence for university I tried again to take part in some senior Italian boulder cups. In the meantime I started working as a teacher in primary school, which takes up a lot of my time and doesn't always allow me to climb as much as I would like. In recent years I have totally dedicated myself to rockclimbing, I have realized that it is the thing that makes me feel better and that makes me happy! I try to climb as much as I can and to visit as many places as possible, appreciating every boulder regardless of the grade. If the line is beautiful, I want to climb it!

Cadance Hurt does No More Greener Grasses (8A+)
Cadance Hurt, with two 8Aโ€™s under her belt, has sent No More Greener Grasses (8A+) in Mount Blue Sky. โ€First day this season oh my godddd.โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Iโ€™ve put two small sessions into No More Greener Grasss (one in 2023 and one in 2024) without ever having been able to stick moves, but today I was able to send within an hour with perfect temps and the perfect crew. After months dealing with a torn pulley, self doubt and other sporadic injuries it was so rewarding.

What is your climbing background?
Iโ€™ve been climbing since I was eight in Colorado (competitively and outside) and work as an elite coach as well. I grew up inspired by all the women capable of sending 8A+ and it always seemed like a reach to accomplish it myself, so this send is meaningful is so many ways.

Andrew Nimmer does Martial Law (9a+)
Andrew Nimmer, with six 8c+โ€™ under his belt, has completed Martial Law (9a+) in Mt. Charleston. โ€What a dream come true!! Felt so good to finally clip the chains. Shoutout to everyone who encouraged and supported me on this mission.โ€ (c) Rachel Melville

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
Climbing something of this difficulty has long been a dream of mine. I moved from Wisconsin to Las Vegas three and a half years ago seeking access to hard sport climbs and a year-round outdoor season. If I wanted to be serious about sending 5.15 or sending at my limit, Vegas was the place to do it.

I first sent the original start โ€œArrested Developmentโ€ 8c+ in 2023. I briefly tried Martial Law until Mt. Charleston closed for the year due to flooding. In 2024, I worked it for most of the summer and started getting really excited when I began to feel like I might actually be able to send it. I stagnated for a bit, having a hard time breaking through to actual close red point attempts. Eventually, I got really close to sending before leaving for a trip right as the fall temps were rolling in. When I returned, the season was over. Thankfully, I felt really strong on it right away this spring and sent it before the summer temps hit. The redpoint go was quite the fight which made for a satisfying send. Clipping the chains really felt like a dream come true.

This send was special to me because it really feels like I couldnโ€™t have done it without my friends and community. I received so much encouragement and kind words which helped me overcome my doubts. I even had to level up my knee bar skills with some coaching from Joe Kinder (who equipped the route) and using Bill Ramseyโ€™s knee pad. Friends of mine would also come out just to belay and support which made all the difference.

What do you think is the main reason for you stepping up your game?
This project definitely pushed me to take my entire approach more seriously, from training, to diet and recovery. Also, focusing on sport climbing for consecutive seasons instead of flip flopping between sport and bouldering seemed to help.

What is coming up next?
Iโ€™m itching to get back to bouldering later this year. First I would like to try to climb more 8b+ to 9a while I have the fitness. Around Vegas and in Rifle.

Radek Votocek sends Hantillio (9a)
Radek Votocek, who during the last two months has completed his first three 9aโ€™s, has sent Hantillio (9a) in Drachenwand. โ€Epic fight! Had to dig really deep on the last few moves! Perfect power endurance test piece from Klem Loskot.โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Hantillio 9a climbs through the big overhang of the Dragon Cave, with the crux being a powerful, dynamic move to the lip of the roof. It requires a precise catch of a small edge. I was lucky to stick the edge fairly early on. :-) Really looking forward to coming back to Drachenwand in the beautiful Salzkammergut lake region!

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