Ben Harnden, who did his third 9a in 2021, has done the second ascent of Connor Herson’s Midnight Way (9a+) in Squamish. The line follows all the hard climbing on Spirit Quest (9a) and then climbs straight into several hard boulders. (c) Tempei Takeuchi

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
Midnight Way is a striking sport climb located in Paradise Valley, just north of Squamish, British Columbia. This cliff is one of the most stunning sport walls in the Sea to Sky corridor and has played a significant role in my climbing journey. I started climbing on Paradise Wall early in its development, getting on some of the first repeats of Queen Bee, Spirit of the West, Spirit Quest, and Killer Queen. I also found myself in a friendly race with Mike Foley for the first ascent of what would become Spirit Quest (9a)—a process that unfolded during the intense heat dome over southern BC. Mike sent it first, and I followed a few weeks later. Midnight Way links the entire crux of Spirit Quest into a stout V9 boulder problem known as Spectre de Norte, and finishes on the technical testpiece Killer Queen. It’s a demanding and unique line, blending several of the wall’s hardest sequences into one continuous challenge.

I began working the route consistently during dry spells in January. I used a variety of tactics—top-rope soloing to rehearse the upper crux and climbing with Alex King to rework the bottom of Spirit Quest, which he was also projecting. The process was about rediscovering the wall—its subtleties, its movement—and building the power required for the full link. The vision for this line had existed for a few years. It was originally bolted by Tom Wright, who later climbed the first ascent of Spirit of the West. Then, last year, California climber Conner Herson completed the first ascent of Midnight Way. His send was inspiring and motivated me to return to Paradise Wall after a long break. Relearning the intricacies of the movement and re-experiencing the wall with fresh eyes was both humbling and energizing.

As for the grade, tools like Darth Grader place it in the 5.15 range. Ultimately, though, consensus will come with more repeats from climbers who are familiar with this style and this wall. Regardless of the number, Midnight Way is one of the most special and challenging climbs I’ve done. It represents an evolution of climbing on Paradise Wall and a meaningful chapter in my own progression.

How old are you and have you done any specific physical training to get this progression?
I’m 41 years old with no specific training. The previous season, I worked on and eventually repeated Didier’s Crack of Destiny (8c) and added two new 5.14 sport routes to Squamish. Which was a great season for me . This past winter, I wasn’t able to climb or train due to a severe case of elbow tendinitis that kept me off the walls. But with rehab and keeping weight on my feet, I was able to still climb in paradise wall.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has during the last ten days in La Saume ticked 18 routes including The famous gem (9a) and an onsight of Lou Merzeou (8b+). ”50 meters of incredible rock and movements. Hot conditions, good fight and an attempt to remember!” (c) Mariana Fierro

The 26-year-old Spaniard has previously onsighted five 8c routes and a dozen 8b+, making him a contender for the runner-up spot in the onsight ranking game after Adam Ondra and Alex Megos. In the annual VL ranking game, the Spaniard holds the #1 position.

Sera Gearhart, with five 8B’s to her name, has completed Nuthin' But Sunshine (8B) in RMNP. The 28-year-old, who did her first 8B two years ago is the new #1 in the ranking game.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and how long the process was?
I’m in Colorado for a week to try The Automator (8B) and tried this boulder too! It took me two days, I did it second try of the second day. It felt a lot more approachable than Automator, so I’m hoping it’ll give me the momentum I need to siege the other.

Cy McIntosh has sent Untwisted (8c+) at Wolf Point and Mutation (9a) in Wild Iris Main Wall. Earlier this spring, the 19-year-old was living in a truck but now he stays with his good friend and mentor, Aaron Hjelt. ”I’m really thankful for that opportunity because it’s let just climb whatever I want whenever I want while having a comfortable house to go home to.”

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
It started with Genetic Drifter (8c+). A classic link up on the rodeo wave which was really fun. After doing that I was really motivated to try the extension mutation. But it got a bit colder for a few days so I wanted to take advantage of that and go to wolf point. One of those days I ended up doing untwisted in a few tries. I’ve never done an 8c+ that fast before so perhaps the grade is up for debate.

After a rest day I went back and climbed mutation. Which is basically a link up of the entire rodeo wave with a rope swap in the middle. I really like goofy routes like that. Partially because sideways is my favorite direction to climb and they also just remind me not to take it to seriously. It’s cool BJ originally had that vision and made it happen.