Sungsu Lee has repeated Ryuichi Murai’s Floatin (8C+) in Mizugaki, after projecting it for 21 sessions. ” So hard for me, I felt solid V16 [8C+]. One of my dream boulders ever.” (c) Takemi Suzuki

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I first started trying Floatin at the end of April 2024, when I met Shawn Raboutou for the first time in Japan. This is my third season on it, and it’s been the longest project I’ve ever worked on!

Any special training or just projected the Boulder?
I think I just got used to it after trying so many times. I didn’t do any special training, I just climbed a lot.

Lucija Tarkuš, who placed 8 to 28 in all her seven Boulder and Lead World Cups this season, has the last two weeks sent one 8A Boulder and three 8c’s, out of which two in one day. Now the goal for the 22-year-old Slovenian is to send Martin Krpan (9a).

Can you tell us more about your roctober sends?
So after comp season, I was really looking forward to rock season, but at the start it was hard to get out there, so I only had two climbing days. On one, I quickly did Strelovod (8c) and on the other I had a boulder session where I finally got to try some local boulders. I was happy that I could quickly do my second-ever 8A boulder.

This week I can finally spend more days at the crag. First, I finished one of my old projects, Kaj ti je deklica 8b+, which went pretty easily. Then I started working on Konec mira (8c), which definitely felt the hardest and needed the most tries, around 10, but I’m glad I sent it. Now maybe I can do the connection into it, and if all goes well, it could be my first 9a (Martin Krpan). After sending Konec Mira, I was really surprised with how quickly I did Corrida (8c), it was the first time I’ve ever sent two 8c’s in one day. Hopefully the weather stays good 🤞

Janja Garnbret reports on Instagram that she has sent L'oppio dei climbers (8B+) and Il trono (8B) in Val Daone. The latter she, ”gave it a good flash go, didn’t work out but sent it second go.”

At 26, the Slovenian climber is widely regarded as the greatest female competition climber in history. Now, she has also proven her dominance on rock—across routes, boulders, and even onsight ascents—despite spending the past decade almost entirely focused on competitions. The question that remains is when, not if, she will measure herself against the best men in the sport.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo, with over 80 routes 9a to 9b+ under his belt, has done La real tierra de nadie (9a) in Juncosa. ”One session but after climb the right outside last year. With wet holds :/.

The following day he climbed Tierra Negra (9a) in Margalef. ” One of the best lines in Margalef. Close to send in a day, finally took me two days. 9a/+ but could be 9a+.” (c) Tim Emmett

Luca Bana, with three 9a+’ under his belt, has made the first ascent of The Master (9a+) in Cornalba. ”9a+/b Yess! The day I'd been waiting for quite some time has finally arrived! Bolted it back in November 2023, when I was looking for a new challenge on the magical ledge, I’d been dreaming of this line ever since. A journey of up and downs, falling with numb fingertips in the freezing wind, facing tough conditions and struggling to find the right day. An intense vertical chapter lasted two seasons. I'm glad it's finally done! Thank you to everyone who believed in me and shared this beautiful journey along the way.” (c) Nabil Rossi

”Clear skies and crisp air: conditions look perfect. After a solid first go, I find myself back on the ground, looking up once more. I’m satisfied with matching my previous high point, but I know it's still not enough if I want to have a chance.

Two full hours of rest, temps are way colder but I'm ready to try again. This time, I climb smoothly through all the hard middle section, breathing on almost every move. Short, sharp shakes — and I launch into the upper crux. 

From below, someone shouts “Come on, you’ve got it!” — as I stick the hold I’d never reached before. Almost in disbelief, I keep going, aware the route isn't over yet. My forearms are about to give out on the very last moves, but the tiny spark of energy left in me is just enough to grab the top hold and clip the chains — the same ones I placed back in November 2023 when, looking for my next challenge, I bolted the route.

For sure, it's my most difficult ascent to date — 9a+ hard is what it felt like to me, hence the slash grade. But let's see what others will say! Sooner or later I'll be back for the longer and slightly harder version starting from Goldrake.”

Jules Marchaland, who since August has done his four first 8C’s, including one flash, has sent Solar Plexus (8C) in Valle Bavona. ”Tried one day some months ago. Went quickly today. Super sick. First Time I was « campus for sure » and today I used the foot without any doubt with the solution comp it’s game changer.”

Today, he also flashed an 8A and Ganymede Takeover (8A+), putting him at the top of this year’s flash ranking game.

Formerly focused mainly on routes and competitions, the 24-year-old has in 2025 completed eleven climbs graded between 9a and 9b. In other words, only a handful of climbers can boast such an outstanding combined ticklist this year.

Jonathan Siegrist, with close to 100 routes 9a and beyond to his name, has done the first ascent of Eazy Street (9a+) in Mt. Charleston. The link up is around 30 meters and the breakdown is 7C+, 8c and 7C+. (c) Ryan White

The line of strength in the Compton Cave. An awesome fight on the send, battling all the way until clipping the anchor! Started on Legend (8b+) climbed through my new traverse into the end of Express Yourself (9a). It was so fun to piece this thing together.”