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Hi Dr 8a,
I have quite a long history of this injury (goes for over 2 months now) and
I'll try to describe it as clearly as possible, bearing in mind I'm not native
in English. I sincerely hope you'll be able to provide me with any sort of help
or advice.
While training on hangboard I was hanging by my fingertips of ring fingers in
both hands. Ring finger in right hand didn't bear the load (bodyweight) and it
suddenly kind of snapped and at the same time I felt weird feeling in my
forearm (in the bottom part, pretty close to the elbow). Immediately after that
happened I didn't feel too much pain, but I wasn't able to use this finger in
isolation anymore. Strangely enough when I was using holds with the whole hand,
it seemed to work ok.
I finished my hangboard session using holds for all hand and then took few days
of rest. After that I continued doing hangboard sessions (maximum strength -
hanging with maximum added load for 8-10 secs, 4 reps, 5 hand positions per
training) every second day, used anti-inflammatory ointment and cold compress.
After about 3 weeks of this the hand was still not working quite properly and I
sometimes I felt mild pain in the forearm moving along the line connecting
wrist and elbow (sometimes closer to the wrist, sometimes lower in the forearm,
closer to the elbow). After I did 3 training days in a row and rested for a day
or two, I woke up with my hand being kind of numb, mostly the inner part from
thumb to middle finger.
I then quit any climbing related activity for two weeks and it got bettter.
After that I resumed training - easy to medium climbing on the climbing wall.
Hand was working quite well, but still the finger and forearm were kind of
sensitive especially if I tried to use the pinky, ring or middle finger in
isolation (together they worked fine, though).
It's now been 3 weeks of progressively harder climbing on an indoor wall
(mostly overhanging routes with positive holds up to 7b, 7b+) for me and the
hand still isn't ok. It seems to work quite well, when I'm warmed up and climbing,
but after training it feels quite warm and sensitive. Additionally since about
2 weeks I've been experiencing disturbed sensations in pinky and ring finger -
while asleep I was waking up to find those two fingers completely numb.
Sensation is back after a short while as soon as I start to move my hand. Also
during the day (while I'm writing these words for example) I experience strange
numb-like sensations in those two fingers, the forearm and elbow.
I already visited orthopedist, neurologist and had ultrasound of the forearm.
Ultrasound showed nothing wrong with the muscles, wrist etc, therefore
orthopedist said it's some kind of overload related symptoms and put me on
anti-inflammatory drugs and iontophoresis (I'm now starting the treatment). Neurologist suspects
some overload related nerve damage and sent me to do electromyography.
I'd appreciate any form of advice of what this injury might be and what can be
tried to do in order to treat it. I'm aware that probably the best thing to do,
would be to get some serious rest immediately after the original injury
happened, but that's the knowledge gained in hindsight. Getting the hand better
is especially important to me as I'm due to go on my holiday in two weeks,
which, needless to say, was supposed to be a climbing holiday.
I tried to describe everything in as much detail as possible, however Ill be
happy to answer any questions. Please help!
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Finger/Forearm injury with neurological complications