Secret • Canada - Ascents - Vertical-Life Climbing Crags

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Sector

	Name	Route	Comment	Date
Date
	Yasser El-Sheikh Yasser El-Sheikh Nostalgia (8b) SECRET	Nostalgia (8b) SECRET	Spent 2 days on this route last month. Super good. Pure compression climbing in the first half, increasingly harder cruxes as you ascent with a rest before the final power crimping crux to the chains (haven't tried this part yet). Did all the moves to the last bolt; minimal linkage so far. Hardest route I've tried to date. Excited to get on again! 2013-07-12 Better conditions today. Got high point; one move short of getting through the hard moves of the ground (fell at move 8). Got good beta from Joe tonight for the middle crux (right hand gaston; left hand crosses under to pocket) and for moves to the last bolt (L hand slot; R hand meathook; R foot heelhook). The last moves are still a mystery. Hope to get out there again next week. 2016-07-08 Great to get back on this route last week, after 3 years away! Climbed up it three times. RPd highpoint (to the 2-finger-pocket move, a few before the crux. Couldn't do the crux move, but did all other moves including the top crux. Climbed through top crux to the chains. Can't wait to try again!! 2016-07-09 Tried again today. Super humid, so no good linkage, but was able to do the low crux, so now all moves have been done. Just some transitions/foot movements yet to link in the two crux sections. Crux beta: Four-finger stack for the left hand undercling pocket. Left foot only for the cross under. Walk right foot way our for unwind. Top beta: (finger-lock from Bryden) Lock pinches just prox. to DIP index. A little bit of camming but nothing crazy. There is a really small construction in the crack the index goes just above and as deep as it can go. I will say tho, that the lock feels very specific, larger fingers might not work as well. Does nothing with the thumb. 2016-10-09 Spent 2 more days on the route this fall. Feeling much better. Moves are getting more consistent. Climbed to the first crux from the ground, then through the first crux to the last bolt. Also, found different beta for top crux that may end up being my way: finger lock left hand, hang low and left, back-flag right foot and grab crimp with right hand as gaston, then go to the sloper-jug left hand. This beta avoids having to do moves using the bad right foothold under the bulge. We'll see! 2016-11-29 Went back several days this month (NOW ABOUT 10 DAYS TOTAL THIS YEAR). Now got to the top in 2-hangs twice; falling once at the beginning of middle and top cruxes. Also, breakthrough highpoint now, fell after controlling the gaston in the middle crux and trying to move left foot up. Did that twice from the ground. Also, new beta for top crux: -new thumb catch intermediate for right hand -still deciding on best left foot position for big move around bulge to right hand crimper. -then, now doing Paul's beta for the exit moves, to avoid the painful finger lock: -kneebar to pull to left crimper over the lip -back flag in kneebar, pressing right toe on wall to lock off and reach to sloper pocket right hand over lip -keep kneebar and move left hand to pinch (crimp it) -then release kneebar to move right hand to positive crimpit (still sorting right foot here; either match on ramp left or use right foot under bulge right) -then smear right foot over lip and go out to sloper jug left hand ALSO, GONNA BUY A SET OF SEND KNEEPADS!! I'M LOVING THIS ROUTE :-) 2016-12-04 Likely last day of the season today. Super cold, but somehow matched my PB of two hangs and highpoint controlling the fin. Felt strongest ever, but numbed out and fell. Psyched for specific training and coming back stronger in the spring!! TRAINING FOCUS: -CORE, WEIGHTS/GENERAL STRENGTH/HYPERTROPHY -UNDERCLINGS/COMPRESSION/OPEN GRIP STRENGTH -POWER AND PE (15-20 MOVE CIRCUITS)!! See you next year Nostalgia. 2017-05-17 HELLO MY FRIEND! Early start to rope climbing this year, so I've managed to climb on the route 8 days in the past 6 weeks already. The bottom of the route was wet on half the days, so at least 4-5 good days this year so far. I'm definitely stronger this year. Both cruxes are now very consistent when I'm fresh, and I can often climb them when tired. New highpoint now too: twice this month I've RPd to the top crux, falling at the big move pulling over the bulge to the crimper at the last bolt.. SOME NEW BETA FROM THIS YEAR: 1) Ground boulder: no change 2) Pocket move: Aim more right to hit the crimper, and dead point the move instead of trying to lock static. 3) Middle crux: move through quickly, without pausing, so as to use the slight momentum from the previous move, to do the next move. 4) Moves to the kneebar rest: Clip off the right hand. Square, low feet for the pulls. 5) Knee bar rest positions: a) right hand fist push on fin. b) left hand straight-arm thumbdercling on gaston. c) right hand grab fin and bat-hang with straight arm. d) left hand on sloper over roof. e)left hand in pocket. Also, release kneebar several times to relax legs. Try to stay in rest for 5 minutes minimum!! 6) Exiting kneebar rest: straight up beta, keeping kneebar 7) Heelhook move: sink it and turn it out. Go to left jug/pinch first 8) Top rest under bulge: Pinch left jug. Right hand holding left part of right jug. Still not sure about best feet options for resting (knee bar? left heel?). 9) Top crux: Grab left under cling crimp in middle of hold, with thumb wrapping over top part of hold while crimping. Highest left foot; right foot on tip of fin hold partial drop knee; come out plum before releasing right hand to grab intermediate. Grab right hand crimp on right side with two fingers on the good part. Left kneebar right on the point. Left arm bent and right foot pressing roof for backflag move. Take sloper crimpit with three fingers, flag right pressing foot and keep kneebar to go to horn. Grab horn crimp at bottom left with four fingers. Right foot on small edge on top of intermediate to release kneebar and move left foot over on ramp before matching feet on ramp. COME ON SEEPAGE! ENOUGH ALREADY; TIME TO SEND!! 2017-05-22 On route yesterday in perfect conditions! Got my highpoint again (going to the intermediate at the top crux); felt much stronger/fitter this time. Was able to relax and rest better before falling. Also, climbed from the last rest to the top for my first one-hang of the route! PB day. SOME NEW MICROBETA FROM THIS WEEK: 1) Boulder problem: hold the flake as high up as possible. 2) Middle crux: place right foot back step on foot hold (not tip of toe; use side of top). Match in hueco with left foot still down on low ledge foot, then bring right foot up to smear and drive hard to gaston, using the momentum from the left foot placement. 3) Rest under top bulge: Left foot heel hook to shake right hand; left foot on good foothold to shake left hand. Right foot on left part of good foothold. 4) Top crux: left foot smears and pushes left; right foot on very tip of fin; slowly release right hand before going to intermediate, to get plum over feet first; Left kneebar goes deep at point. 2017-08-09	1 Jul 2013
Yasser El-Sheikh Yasser El-Sheikh Nostalgia (8b) SECRET Spent 2 days on this route last month. Super good. Pure compression climbing in the first half, increasingly harder cruxes as you ascent with a rest before the final power crimping crux to the chains (haven't tried this part yet). Did all the moves to the last bolt; minimal linkage so far. Hardest route I've tried to date. Excited to get on again! 2013-07-12 Better conditions today. Got high point; one move short of getting through the hard moves of the ground (fell at move 8). Got good beta from Joe tonight for the middle crux (right hand gaston; left hand crosses under to pocket) and for moves to the last bolt (L hand slot; R hand meathook; R foot heelhook). The last moves are still a mystery. Hope to get out there again next week. 2016-07-08 Great to get back on this route last week, after 3 years away! Climbed up it three times. RPd highpoint (to the 2-finger-pocket move, a few before the crux. Couldn't do the crux move, but did all other moves including the top crux. Climbed through top crux to the chains. Can't wait to try again!! 2016-07-09 Tried again today. Super humid, so no good linkage, but was able to do the low crux, so now all moves have been done. Just some transitions/foot movements yet to link in the two crux sections. Crux beta: Four-finger stack for the left hand undercling pocket. Left foot only for the cross under. Walk right foot way our for unwind. Top beta: (finger-lock from Bryden) Lock pinches just prox. to DIP index. A little bit of camming but nothing crazy. There is a really small construction in the crack the index goes just above and as deep as it can go. I will say tho, that the lock feels very specific, larger fingers might not work as well. Does nothing with the thumb. 2016-10-09 Spent 2 more days on the route this fall. Feeling much better. Moves are getting more consistent. Climbed to the first crux from the ground, then through the first crux to the last bolt. Also, found different beta for top crux that may end up being my way: finger lock left hand, hang low and left, back-flag right foot and grab crimp with right hand as gaston, then go to the sloper-jug left hand. This beta avoids having to do moves using the bad right foothold under the bulge. We'll see! 2016-11-29 Went back several days this month (NOW ABOUT 10 DAYS TOTAL THIS YEAR). Now got to the top in 2-hangs twice; falling once at the beginning of middle and top cruxes. Also, breakthrough highpoint now, fell after controlling the gaston in the middle crux and trying to move left foot up. Did that twice from the ground. Also, new beta for top crux: -new thumb catch intermediate for right hand -still deciding on best left foot position for big move around bulge to right hand crimper. -then, now doing Paul's beta for the exit moves, to avoid the painful finger lock: -kneebar to pull to left crimper over the lip -back flag in kneebar, pressing right toe on wall to lock off and reach to sloper pocket right hand over lip -keep kneebar and move left hand to pinch (crimp it) -then release kneebar to move right hand to positive crimpit (still sorting right foot here; either match on ramp left or use right foot under bulge right) -then smear right foot over lip and go out to sloper jug left hand ALSO, GONNA BUY A SET OF SEND KNEEPADS!! I'M LOVING THIS ROUTE :-) 2016-12-04 Likely last day of the season today. Super cold, but somehow matched my PB of two hangs and highpoint controlling the fin. Felt strongest ever, but numbed out and fell. Psyched for specific training and coming back stronger in the spring!! TRAINING FOCUS: -CORE, WEIGHTS/GENERAL STRENGTH/HYPERTROPHY -UNDERCLINGS/COMPRESSION/OPEN GRIP STRENGTH -POWER AND PE (15-20 MOVE CIRCUITS)!! See you next year Nostalgia. 2017-05-17 HELLO MY FRIEND! Early start to rope climbing this year, so I've managed to climb on the route 8 days in the past 6 weeks already. The bottom of the route was wet on half the days, so at least 4-5 good days this year so far. I'm definitely stronger this year. Both cruxes are now very consistent when I'm fresh, and I can often climb them when tired. New highpoint now too: twice this month I've RPd to the top crux, falling at the big move pulling over the bulge to the crimper at the last bolt.. SOME NEW BETA FROM THIS YEAR: 1) Ground boulder: no change 2) Pocket move: Aim more right to hit the crimper, and dead point the move instead of trying to lock static. 3) Middle crux: move through quickly, without pausing, so as to use the slight momentum from the previous move, to do the next move. 4) Moves to the kneebar rest: Clip off the right hand. Square, low feet for the pulls. 5) Knee bar rest positions: a) right hand fist push on fin. b) left hand straight-arm thumbdercling on gaston. c) right hand grab fin and bat-hang with straight arm. d) left hand on sloper over roof. e)left hand in pocket. Also, release kneebar several times to relax legs. Try to stay in rest for 5 minutes minimum!! 6) Exiting kneebar rest: straight up beta, keeping kneebar 7) Heelhook move: sink it and turn it out. Go to left jug/pinch first 8) Top rest under bulge: Pinch left jug. Right hand holding left part of right jug. Still not sure about best feet options for resting (knee bar? left heel?). 9) Top crux: Grab left under cling crimp in middle of hold, with thumb wrapping over top part of hold while crimping. Highest left foot; right foot on tip of fin hold partial drop knee; come out plum before releasing right hand to grab intermediate. Grab right hand crimp on right side with two fingers on the good part. Left kneebar right on the point. Left arm bent and right foot pressing roof for backflag move. Take sloper crimpit with three fingers, flag right pressing foot and keep kneebar to go to horn. Grab horn crimp at bottom left with four fingers. Right foot on small edge on top of intermediate to release kneebar and move left foot over on ramp before matching feet on ramp. COME ON SEEPAGE! ENOUGH ALREADY; TIME TO SEND!! 2017-05-22 On route yesterday in perfect conditions! Got my highpoint again (going to the intermediate at the top crux); felt much stronger/fitter this time. Was able to relax and rest better before falling. Also, climbed from the last rest to the top for my first one-hang of the route! PB day. SOME NEW MICROBETA FROM THIS WEEK: 1) Boulder problem: hold the flake as high up as possible. 2) Middle crux: place right foot back step on foot hold (not tip of toe; use side of top). Match in hueco with left foot still down on low ledge foot, then bring right foot up to smear and drive hard to gaston, using the momentum from the left foot placement. 3) Rest under top bulge: Left foot heel hook to shake right hand; left foot on good foothold to shake left hand. Right foot on left part of good foothold. 4) Top crux: left foot smears and pushes left; right foot on very tip of fin; slowly release right hand before going to intermediate, to get plum over feet first; Left kneebar goes deep at point. 2017-08-09 1 Jul 2013
	Steve Cotes Steve Cotes la Fascination (7c) Unknown Sector	la Fascination (7c) Unknown Sector	super ligne du Nord.... Une des plus belle ...........	11 Aug 2010
Steve Cotes Steve Cotes la Fascination (7c) Unknown Sector super ligne du Nord.... Une des plus belle ........... 11 Aug 2010