8c reclimbed FA by Alizee Dufraisse  (1)
 

Alizee Dufraisse has done the first ascent of L'arcademicien in Ceuse after a hold broke and suggest 8c and says that it might even be 8c+. This month, she has been #8 in Chamonix and #6 at Arco. Old interview with the former pole vault champion.



 
4 kids, full time job, 8c and 8A 
 

Jacinda Hunter: Style, Grace, Power from Prana Living on Vimeo.



 
Second 9a for Pirmin Bertle 
 

Pirmin Bertle has done Cabane au Canada, 9a in Rawyl. "One of the best hard lines in Switzerland. Pure endurance on 80 hard moves in one big overhanging slab. With 19 tries (at least for me :) a quite fast ascent." Pirmin is #9 in the ranking game.



8aBanner
 
The leader before the last boulder comp in Munich 
 

 
The final Boulder WC starts on Friday 
 

The seventh and last Boulder WC will held in Munich this friday and saturday. Live webcast can be found in here.

Based on an 8a poll with 366 unique votes, Adam Ondra and Anna Stöhr are favourites to win. If Kilian Fischhuber is #2, Ondra needs only to be #5 to win. This is the seventh year in a row that Fischhuber is in Top 2!

Among the women, Chloé Graftiaux needs to be #3 if Anna Stöhr wins and #4 if Akiyo Noguchi wins to take the title home. If neither of them finishes first, Chloé only needs to be #8 to secure the title.

 
8a+ (b) by Nicki van Bergen (17) 
 

Nicki van Bergen has done Spit Bull, 8a+ (b) in St Leger. Last year, Nicki was #5 in the European Youth Cup.

 
8c onsight by Patxi Usobiaga 
 

Patxiusobiaga.com blogs in spanish about some nice onsights including Absinth 8c and some 8b+, 8b etc.

 
Three 8b+ OS and 8A+(B) flash by Adam Ondra 
 

Adam Ondra has onsighted Coque au vin, 8b+ in Zillertal and two other 8b+s in Laste. The 17-year-old also did two 8c+s on second go. On bouldering front, he managed to do three 8A+s (including Incubator which most have as an 8B). It seems roadtripping around Zillertal works as a preparation for the final WC event in Bouldering (starting on friday) for him.

 
8B+ new FA by Paul Robinson  (24)
 

Paul Robinson has done the first ascent of Bleagle, 8B+ at Rocklands. This line was formerly known as Black Eagle (opened by Fred Nicole) but has lost some holds along the way. More info at Paul's homepage and Alexandra Kahn's blog

 
8c+ (9a) by Giuseppe Nolasco 
 

Instrapiombo reports that Giuseppe "Pippo" Nolasco has done the second repeat of Alberto Gnerro's SS26 at Gressonay. Pippo suggests a downgrade to 8c+ which was earlier suggested by Gabriele Moroni as well.

 
Lama and the Red Bull controversy  (7)
 

David Lama's thoughts on the subject in german or check out the full translation in the comments.

 
8c and 8b+ OS by Charlotte Durif  (2)
 

Chadurif.fr reports that Charlotte Durif has onsighted Le roi du pétrole 8c, Smails paradis 8b+ and two 8bs in Pic Saint Loup. She seems to be in great shape and pushing the standards of climbing to new levels. Charlotte's first 8b onsight was when she was only 15 years old. She won the first Lead WC event in Chamonix three weeks ago.

 
8a Poll: "Stiff or Soft shoes doesn't matter"  (1)
 

Based on an 8a poll with 600 unique votes the preference for Stiff or Soft shoes seems equal.
22 %: I prefer Soft shoes
20 %: In between
20 %: I prefer Stiff shoes
38 %: Soft or Stiff depends on rock

 
OS slaughter again by Ramonet 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julian Puigblanque had a nice weekend, onsighting Grandes y poderosas, 8b+ in Margalef and three 8bs. Ramonet, who won both in Chamonix and Arco in a rather superior style, is #2 in the 8a ranking game. More info at Ramon's blog (in spanish)

Picture (c) M.ALBA

 
8a Poll: "Change the Lead WC format"  (6)
 

Based on an 8a poll with 450 unique votes, the majority thinks the lead concept should be changed and only 10 % says "It is perfect".
30 %: Create a new concept
21 %: Minor changes needed
26 % It is OK
10 %: It is perfect
13 %: I do not know

 
New Zealand bouldering  (1)
 

A few days at Castle Hill from derek thatcher on Vimeo.

 
8b (a+) by Sasha Digiulian (17) 
 

Sasha Digiulian has done Fuego, 8b (a+) in Arco and she extends her lead in the female junior ranking game. Saha has been #3 in the Youth World Champion and she did five 7C boulders when she was 13-years-old.

 
Third 8B+ FA by Woods at Mt. Evans 
 

Daniel Woods has opened his third 8B+ at Mt. Evans, Exfoliator. Daniel is #1 in the ranking game.

 
8b by Evgeniya Malamid 
 

Evgeniya Malamid has done Maraton, 8b in Arco and she is #1 in the world ranking game. She has been an an active competition climbber since 2001 and she is normally around #15 in the World Cups.

 
Ramonet superior Lead winner at Arco 
 

 
Flatanger - Norway: The biggest cave in the world?  (2)
 

In Flatanger, 3 h north of Trondheim and 2 h north of Hell, the world's biggest gneiss cave is located. So far, only routes up to 90 metres on the sides and some 25 metres inside the cave have been done. Routes 100+ metres and 40 metres overhanging can be projected.

(c) Climbingpics.blogspot.com From inside the cave you have an amazing view of archipelago and farming land. More pics and topo.

 
Sharma in the Arco qualification  (6)
 

 
8a+ onsight by Nina Caprez 
 

Nina Caprez has onsigthed Rat man, 8a+ in Ceuse which actually is the second recorded ascent after David Graham. Many guys say it is hard but Nina wrote soft. She is #4 in the ranking game.

 
First 8b+ by Simone Baechler 
 

Simone Baechler has done her first 8b+, Marc at Gastlosen. Simone has previously done three 8b's.

 
Closing down the web shop in August 
 

We will temporarily close down the web shop in August. Order the yearbook 2010 with information about the Topp-100 climbing areas in Western Europe etc. You only pay for the freight!

 
Katharina Posch (16) #2 at Arco 
 

 
First 8B+ by Jesse Bonin  (1)
 

Jesse Bonin has done his first 8B+, Derailed in Rocklands. Jesse has previously done four 8B's out of which two in Rocklands.

 
7b+ onsight by Tito Traversa (9) 
 

Tito Traversa (9) has done his first two 7b+ onsights, Drum Light and Cuba Libre at Arco. Tito did his first 8a being 8-years-old. More info and pictures at Titotraversa.it

 
8c by Charlotte Durif  (10)
 

Charlotte Durif who won the the Chamonix World Cup last week has done Un jour peut-être, 8c in La Balme on her third try. This was her fourth 8c in 2010.

 
Is this the future?  (20)
 

 
Forum & Comments
 
 
Tips & Tricks
 
 
Latest Articles
 
What is the longest time spent on a project?
 
 
FA (First Ascents)
 
Popular Articles
 
Gallery
 
 

L'amour sur le charnier...
 
New Members
 
 
Recommended Ascents
 
 
Search & Add Ascents
Iris Matamoros Quero - Baltzolita 8c, Baltzola
Click to Enlarge Picture
Selected Top List ->
New names: Sitstarts & Reclimbs 
 
Olympic climbing format: Difficulty and Time  (9)
Debate/Jens: If IFSC will convince the Olympic committee to include Lead into the Olympic Games, they have to create a new format that will be fast and fun for the television. Just take any of your non-climbing friends and let them watch a Lead event and they will be dead bored within 15 minutes!

The easiest way to make it more interesting is to make all the routes one grade easier and let the time decide equal results. This will make everyone climb faster and split times can be used.

The Top-26 semifinal can be made up by flash heats where the winner of two identical routes, plus the best result goes to the next round until you are down to the final-8 onsight. The best result battles the worst result in each round.
 
Do you want to improve the Lead WC format? 
 
Prefering Soft or Stiff shoes, or both? 
 

 Video Blogs
 Alexey Rubtsov bouldering in Hampi
 V11e.e o Filme - Faixa Bônus (Cocal...
 Adam Ondra climbing @ Kalymnos: par...
 Penteli BOulder
 Raining Day
 Steno Faraggi
 Video blog 01-06-2010
 Simon on Cell Block Six
 Bouldering around Cape Town
 Performance rock climbing by Henrik...

Promoting Climbing Interaction

8A FACTS and PHILOSOPHY

  • 10 year anniversary in December 2009
  • 8a yearbook, free of charge, since 2006
  • 84 000 unique computers monthly
  • 8A Climbing Inc is owned by 16 climbers,
    incl. three 9a+ climbers and a World Champ
  • Yearly Turnover & Salaries: 80’ & 20’ Euro
  • Founder/Editor-in-Chief:Jens Larssen
  • Webmaster: Jonas Emanuelsson
  • Admin&Yearbook:Tomasz Ratajczak
  • Editor Spain:Ignacio@8a.nu Sandoval Buron
  • Members: (on-line länk) Ascents: (on-line länk)

    The 8a world ranking aims to be a fun game
    and a motivator. It is NOT the truth also as
    grades and ethics vary. Climbing is about
    Nature, Adrenalin, Travel and Friends etc!

    8A MEMBER USER TIPS
  • Log-in with member Id # instead of email
  • Scorecard (points & ranking) or Log-book
  • mobile.8a.nu: Add ascents via mobile
  • My 8a Friends: Alerted of friend’s ascents
  • Create Tick Lists: 1.2 million rated ascents
  • Recommend your World class ascents
  • Training-log/Blog/Gallery/Profile & Sponsors
  • Grade Conversion
  • Dr. 8a: Discuss with Björn Alber in the forum
  • Anonymous 8a members are not allowed!

    Score = Top-10 climbs last 12 months
    8a = 1 000, 7c+ = 950, 7c = 900, 7a = 700

Bonus Points

Routes

Boulders

Onsight

145

  95

Flash

  53

  53

Top Rope

- 50

- 50

First Ascent

  10

    5

Second Go

   2

    2

Repeat

 -1

   -1

Traditional

30

 


     8a NEWS REPORTING

RSS News | More News & Numbers ->