Vertical-Life
Martina Demmel onsights Stiqueul man (8a+/b)
The 22-year-old competition climber onsighted her first 8b, out of ten, four years ago when she had only been climbing for three years. In the 8a ranking game she is #7 in the onsight ranking, all men included.
Can you tell us more about your injury and how it made you climb faster?
In qualis in Wujiang, we had a pretty aggressive heel-toe-jam where my calf dislocated for a short moment and injured the capsule. It's not as bad as it sounds because it completely heals by itself in about 6 weeks but now for the first few weeks, I'm very limited with the use of my right leg (no heel-hooks, dropknees, twisting, high steps, pushing, pulling with the toes - so standing on it frontally is ok).
I guess while trying a hard onsight especially in steep bouldery terrain, there isn't plenty of time to choose the ideal footholds. Not having several options for the use of my right leg helped me decide quicker, hesitate less and just commit to the obvious beta right away by taking more risks. I hope to apply this more even after my knee is healed again. I definitely feel my upper body getting much more tired than usual...
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Eva Hammelmüller does La théorie des cordes (8c)
Eva Hammelmüller has completed La théorie des cordes (8c) in Saint Léger. ”Didn’t think it possible to do the first crux with wet holds, but tinfoil works wonde…
Tanguy Merard gets back to rock and does three 9a’s
Tanguy Merard, who did five 9a+’s last year, has completed Le Cadafist (9a/+) in Saint Léger, Anidalle tracteur (9a) in L'Abattoir and Amicalement blues (9a) i…
Heim nach Afrika 9a by Martina Demmel
Martina Demmel, who started climbing only in 2017, has done Heim nach Afrika (9a) in Kochel. It is a link-up that first Pirmin Bertle reported the FA, calling i…
Eva Hammelmüller does La théorie des cordes (8c)
Eva Hammelmüller has completed La théorie des cordes (8c) in Saint Léger. ”Didn’t think it possible to do the first crux with wet holds, but tinfoil works wonde…
Tanguy Merard gets back to rock and does three 9a’s
Tanguy Merard, who did five 9a+’s last year, has completed Le Cadafist (9a/+) in Saint Léger, Anidalle tracteur (9a) in L'Abattoir and Amicalement blues (9a) i…
Heim nach Afrika 9a by Martina Demmel
Martina Demmel, who started climbing only in 2017, has done Heim nach Afrika (9a) in Kochel. It is a link-up that first Pirmin Bertle reported the FA, calling i…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…