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Two 8C’s in a day by Shinichiro Nomura  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureShinichiro Nomura, who started bouldering outdoors six months ago, has done two 8C's in Shiobara, Hydrangea and Babel. The 159 cm tall did them on his second day including also an 8B+ and in total he needed 15 tries each. "I am am super happy with these sends. In total, the 21 year old has now done five 8C's and he is #2 in the ranking game. Last year his focus was Lead competitions and his worst result during the five last WCs was #29. (c) Jun Shibanuma, who also did Babel!

 
 
8A+ by Alizée Dufraisse  Facebook
 

Alizée Dufraisse has done Veritas low left 8A+ in RMNP. "Colorado is amazing!! I learn the process to push in bouldering and explore all those crazy places." Now she sets the bar on Bear Toss 8B before going to Rocklands.

Alizée, who has done two 9a's, in #6 in the female boulder ranking game.

 
 
14 5.14's (8b+ to 8c+) by Connor Herson (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureConnor Herson is a multi-discipline climber doing it all from big wall trad climbing to competitions. At the same time he has been focusing multiple ascents instead of just some few hard redpoints projects.

"In August last year, right after I sent my second 5.14 (8b+), my friend Hobbs and I joked about climbing 14 5.14's before turning 15. I didn't take it seriously at all, but later that trip I sent two more, and it seemed like it could happen. If I averaged one a month, it would be possible.

However, between August and December, I was focused on competitions so I didn't even get to try any. After that, I ticked four more in between December and March, and then came my trip to the Red. Beforehand, I thought that if I climbed well, I might be able to pull of two, but I surpassed my expectations by sending Lucifer (8c+), Southern Smoke, and Omaha Beach! I rode the psyche through the rest of April and the beginning of May, and, as well as doing the Nose and Halfdome each in a day, I managed to pull off this goal at a local sport crag called Jailhouse!

Looking forward to the future, I think I would like to send one or two more 5.14's before turning 15 in July because one (God's Own Stone) I did while I was 13 so instead of 14 5.14's before turning 15, I could make it 14 5.14's while I am 14 years old, which sounds pretty cool. Beyond that, I am going to be focusing on competitions over the summer, but I'll be doing some climbing in Yosemite beforehand. (c) Andrea Laue - Lolita 5.14a at Jailhouse Rock

 
 
9a female statistics  (1) Facebook
 

The first female 9a is today considered to be Josune Bereziartu's Bain de Sang from 2000 although also 8c+ have been forwarded. In fact, looking at the female 9a advent statistics, most are today thought to be closer to 8c+/9a.

9a: Josune Bereziartu - Bain de Sang 2000
9a+: Margo Hayes - La Rambla 2017
9b: Angela Eiter - La Planta de Shiva 2017

8c+/9a Statistics (out of which 9a's and harder)
8: Anak Verhoeven (4)
4: Angela Eiter (3), Josune Bereziartu (2), Laura Rogara (1)

 
 
Jonathan Siegrist comments Jumbo Love 9b  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist started to work on Jumbo Love in 2016. Last week he did the Chris Sharma 9b after an intense month with eleven sessions, after some 45 tries in total. In order to reach the 80 meter route you need to drive 10 miles on a bad dirt route and climb a 7c+ intro route. (c) Cameron Maier - Bear cam Media

"I chose Jumbo Love because I am incredibly motivated by the history and the allure of such a wild and remote route. The logistics are a serious consideration for this route because of it’s environment, the access road is very serious and rugged and the hike is steep and strenuous in the desert heat. It felt impossible for me to climb well on the route for more than one day in a row. Also I really felt like my conditions window was pretty small so waiting for the right days was important. For these reasons alone I was only able to try the route on about 11 days over the entire month. Patience is always a key factor in any hard project but for this it felt even more important than usual. It takes around 2.5 hours from my house to the base of the cliff, especially because I hike really slowly!

I changed my training considerably for this climb because for the most part the holds are actually good, it’s just the movement is massive throughout. As a shorter climber (167 cm) I worked extra hard over the winter to try and train with huge moves and become a little more dynamic, and mostly dropped my focus on finger strength.

Next I am planning my escape from the brutal Las Vegas summer to Canada!"

 
 
9a by Barbara Zangerl  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBarbara Zangerl has done Cedric Lachat's Speed Integrale 9a in Voralpsee, which was a 10 m extension to Beat Kammerlander's Speed 8c+. It took Babsi some 15 days and the sending day was amazing.

"What a day!!!!—at 7 a.m. I finished my nightshift at the hospital; right after we drove to Voralpsee; without any expectations. Energy was pretty low in the morning, but somehow the day ended with this crazy fight through this big route! On my last try of the day-> I DID IT!!!" Jacopo Larcher

Interesting she did it the first time also doing Speed 8c+. "The extension is powerful on slopy pockets ...not easy to climb that with pumped forearms."

Ten years ago, the 163 cm Austrian was one of the very best female boulderers in the world. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which had her to stop bouldering. Today, including trad FA up to 8c and several 8c+' in sport as well as world class multi-pitches and big walls up to 8b+ on El Cap, she is the best female multi-discipline climber.

"I love all disciplines. I couldn't focus just on one all over the year. Next is Canada is a trip to Canada for June and July. Excited to go there for my first time. Always fun to see new places."

 
 
Tito Traversa "instructor" sentenced 2 years prison  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureIn 2013, Tito Traversa (12) fell to the ground from 18 meters due to quick draws fallen apart as they were only attached with the rubber band. Tito had just done his fourth 8b+ and he was on a youth trip with his local club including one leader and two parents.

The Italian court has now said the unofficial instructor Nicola Galizia should be blamed and has sentenced him to two two years in prison and also judicial expenses in excess of 21 000 euros. However, Galizia is likely not going to jail as this is his first offense. Pareti.it has more info in Italian

For Tito, forever in our hearts, video made by Christian Core which was presented at Arco Rock Master 2013 where Ramon Julian Puigblanque dedicated his victory to him. Tito's father have said we should keep his 8a scorecard as another memory of his son.

 
 
9b by Pirmin Bertle - Climbing starts 04.15  (18) Facebook
 


9b at 1800m: La Cène du (Roi) Lézard – The Last Supper of the Lizard (King), Jansegg, FR/CH from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

 
 
8B and 8A flashes by Niccolò Ceria  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolo Ceria reports on Insta that he has flashed Chris Sharma's Trifecta Middel 8B and James Morris' Mortality Sequence 8A in Flock Hill. Interesting is that they both only been repeated few times. (c) Gomez Garcia Gonzalez

Niky's Insta is full of other great pictures and info about some new FAs, but no grades, in the stunning and famous boulder spot in New Zealand. With a couple 8B flashes previously, he should be considered as one of the best in the world.

 
 
Jumbo Love 9b by Jonathan Siegrist  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture Jonathan Siegrist has done the second repeat, after Ethan Pringle, of Chris Sharma's Jumbo Love 9b in Clark Mountain. In order to reach the 80 meter route you need to drive 10 miles on a bad dirt route and climb a 7c+ intro route. (c) Cameron Maier - Bear Cam Media More info to come

 
 
9a and 9a+ FAs in Romania by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has been invited to climbing in Herculane in Romania where he, among other things, made one 9a FA and Stone Butterfly 9a+. Interesting is that he calls it the “wall of perfection” on his Insta and that he has marked the routes with thumbs up which he actually rarely does.

Amazing project from Gerhard Horhager right of Guri Guri. Power endurance on small tufas and crimps. Very complex and fun climbing.

 
 
8B by Isabelle Faus  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChad Greedy reports on Insta that Isabelle Faus has done The Cat Ranch 8B in RMNP. Isabelle has already sent close to 100 boulder problems from 8A to 8B+ and she's 2nd in the ranking game.

 
 
Great show in Tai'an  (5) Facebook
 

Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka won the fourth stage of the Boulder World Cup in Tai'an and continues their total domination. In the last two WCs, Akiyo has done all 26 boulder (Miho 25) and the runner up Stasa Gejo has done 15 boulders. Among the male, Alex Khazanov got his and Israel's first victory, interview is coming up, with the two Slovenians Jernej Kruder and Gregor Vezonik sharing the podium. The route setting and show was perfect in Tai'an with many amazing moments and excitement to the very.

1. Alex Khazanov 34 ISR - Akiyo Noguchi 44:5 JPN
2. Jernej Kruder 24:2 SLO - Miho Nonaka 44:10 JPN
3. Gregor Vezonik 24:4 SLO - Fanny Gibert 23:6 FRA
Complete results The results are presented as points and with ties, the number of attempts are added.

 
 
Sharma enjoys sharing his projects and gets motivated  (16) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn 2009 Chris Sharma bolted La Dura Dura and two years later he did something unusual for the climbing community, as he told Adam Ondra to challenge him for the FA. Ondra did it in 2013 and one month later Sharma did his first 9b+. Cooperation in competitions is common but "closed projects" are quite normal in the climbing world and calling Perfecto Mundo an open project, Chris has once again showed the way forward.

"It was great climbing with Stefano and Alex on Perfecto Mundo. They were very respectful in asking me permission and honestly I had been quite on and off with the route so it was super motivating to try and share there experience with someone else. Definitely way more fun than trying it alone. And it was great to share something special with the new generation.

Sometimes keeping projects for ourselves can block the good energy from flowing naturally and it was great to let the good vibes flow with Alex and Stefano. Such nice guys and incredible climbers and athletes. That being said, I think it’s a case by case situation, and people should respect people’s projects and always ask for the bolter’s blessing.

I’m super psyched to continue trying and hopefully send Perfecto Mundo one day soon. It’s one of the most meaningful routes I’ve tried and have yet to complete. So whether it goes this season or next, I plan to keep at it till it comes together!" (c) Ricardo Giancola

 
 
Boulder World Cup Final  Facebook
 

 
 
Great hot semifinal in Tai'an  (2) Facebook
 

Perfect route setting, based almost only on volumes, in the semi final where we saw some sensations as Tomoa Narasaki and Alexey Rubtsov missed the final. With the old scoring system, Narasaki would have been #2 as he flashed three problems but as he failed to get the zone on the fourth, the new scoring system put him down to 8th place. Among the male, six Japaneses in Top-11. Complete results. The final starts 02.30 GMT+8.

Female finalists: Noguchi, Nonaka, Gibert, Condie, Färber and Gejo
Male finalists: Fujii, Kruder, Vezonik, Khazanov, Sugimoto and Chon

 
 
Team work made the FA on Perfecto Mundo 9b+  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Sharma bolted Perfecto Mundo in 2010 and has worked it of and on since. Stefano Ghisolfi started working on it this winter and they were joined by Alex Megos this spring who just sent it after 15 days projecting. (c) Sara Grippo

How come did you choose this route as your first long term project and did you do any specific training for it?

It was not a decision I made beforehand. I just had a Spain trip planned to Margalef and Oliana with checking out "Perfecto Mundo" in mind. So I got here and after checking it out I got really psyched on it. We've been talking about going and trying Perfecto Mundo with Stefano (Ghisolfi) already a while ago but I never managed till now.

Chris was giving me all the beta he knew and he was the first one I'd see climbing on the route which was super interesting to see. We motivated each other and helped each other with beta and sequences. Stefano ended up taking my foot beta for the jump from the mono to the pinch for example. I changed my beta for the top to Stefanos beta. We were belaying each other as well. I didn't do any specific training for the route no. I came straight from a bouldering World Cup to Spain. All the training I did was on the route itself.

Also Ghisolfi has enjoyed the cooperation and might take another trip if the weather cooperates before he need to start preparing for the Lead World Cup preparation. "It was motivating to try the route together, no competition between us but just cooperation. I don't know how close I am, could take one more week or maybe I need to come back in autumn or winter."

 
 
9 + 8 Japaneses to the semifinal i Tai'an  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe male Japanese domination in the Boulder World Cup continues and they won both groups in Tai'an as well as got nine into the Top-20 semifinal, starting tomorrow 09.30 GMT+8. All the big names made it through. Complete results. (c) IFSC

Among the female, the Japaneses set a new record with eight into the semifinal and to make it even more impressive, they participated with just eight female. The next Boulder WC takes place in Tokyo and there some 20 female and 25 male Japanese athletes are allowed to compete. The reason for the higher number of male is due to there were five in the Top-8 overall.

 
 
8c+ by Manon Hily  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureManon Hily seems to be in her best shape in her life and has done Coma Sant Pere 8c+ in Margalef. "Much easier then Era Vella meaning 8c/+." (c) Théo Cartier

Last week she did Era Vella 8c+ (9a) after just trying if for four days and during her trip she has onsighted or flashed every 8a she has tried and she also did her first 8b onsight, La presó dels monstres. She says that the Margalef style with many two finger pockets suites her style.

 
 
Perfecto Mundo 9b+ by Alex Megos  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos has done the old Chris Sharma project, Perfecto Mondo in Margalef which Chris has commented. "When it goes it'll surely be one of the best and hardest routes ever." Video of Chris Sharma projecting it. Megos comments on his Insta. "I'm incredibly relieved. This has been an important process in my climbing career and clipping the anchor of "Perfecto Mundo", my first 9b+ as well as getting the FA was an incredible experience. Video of one attempt.

Stefano Ghisolfi has also been working on it and this was what he told us last month. "Perfecto Mundo project first part could be 8c to a rest, then the main section starts, about ten intense moves with the crux that is a jump from a mono to a pinch which is the hardest move. I can do it as single move but not always. From there is still a bit hard, 8a+ to the chain I think." (c) Ken Etzel

 
Martin Bigatti

Whore's Gold 7a+, Wild
Iris
 
Dubard Loïc

Storm - 7C/V9, Ravine d
es Avirons
 
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
 
Michaela Izakovicova

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Marcin Walasek

Hipertrofia treningowa
8b, Dolina Kluczwody
 
Jamie Leland

Public Enemy 7c+, Super
stition Mountains
 
Leo Skinner

rich skinner - sansa 7c
 
Raul de Morais Nedochetko

Barracuda 5b, Ubatuba
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner on the youn
gest ascent of Butch Ca
ssidy 8A at dinas rock
 
Claudia herrmann (f)

Aphrodite V7, Hollow Mo
untain Cave, Grampians
 
David Vicente

"EL PROCESO" 40m 8a. Fo
z de Zafrané, ZARAGOZA.
 
Kathrin Ziegler

Goldener Mittelweg
 
Heiko Queitsch

thanks Frank for this n
ice picture.. first "Gr
eenpoint" o. "cleanasce
nt" from the super clas
sic "Chasin theTrane" (
9/7c) (E7/6c) years ago
!
 
Mark Zaus

Halber Wahnsinn 7b+, Ka
rlstein
 
Mateusz Haladaj

Mateusz Haładaj on Stal
Mielec 9a/+, Dolina Kl
uczwody
 
Miguel Espejo

Aquiles 7c, Villanueva
del Rosario
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - corridors
of power 7c+
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Junimond 7c+, Geyik Bay
iri
 
Search & Add Ascents
Email:
 
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Pongoose: Most advanced and expensive on the market  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThe Pongoose is the most advanced and expensive (97 Euro excluding shipping) clip stick out there. Beside putting up the quickdraws and also putting in the rope it can actually retrieve quickdraws as well as attach a brush and a camera on it. The collapsed length is just 720 mm and you can clip it in to your harness if you need it higher up. The extended length is 2.85 m.

The big question is of course if it is worth it in comparison to a free natural version or the less advanced and expensive stick clip on the market?

Having tested it, we can say that it is marginally better then the others on the market. You will probably save some time putting up and down quick draws but it is also personal which clip stick works best. Have you never used a clip stick but plans to buy one, this should be your best option. On the other hand, if you already have one and have learnt it's tricks, the benefits does not seem to be so big beside the "plastic" ones often get destroyed pretty fast.
 
Paul Robinson sending school  Facebook
 
La Sportiva 90 years anniversary  Facebook
 
90 year anniversary for La Sportiva  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureADVERTORIAL - La Sportiva celebrates its 90th anniversary with a reboot of its climbing line: there are 5 classic models involved in the modernization operation with more modern designs and aesthetic solutions in line with the times. Make way then for the new versions of Miura, Futura, Cobra, Katana and Solution!
 
Upgradings in Kalymnos  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureThe 2018 season has started out better and the local Kalymnos community is more optimistic then before and there are many hotels and apartments have done or are doing upgradings.

Starting from June 1, Carian Hotel start up their 4 star services included also car rental. This is a high class luxury hotel, first of it's kind on the island, also with a SPA and relax and they offer half price for climbers in June, see picture.

Aris T reports that 1 200 bolts and 200 anchors have arrived to the island. "This is our contribution to the island from the proceeds of the Kalymnos guidebook for 2018." The new updated topo will be released this autumn including several hundred new routes compared to the 2017 edition. Just Claude Idoux has over 200 new routes that will be included.

When it comes to climbing shops, Adventure center has closed but Wild Sport is running a new one. "The last two years was rather slow with less flights and many trying Leonidio and other new Greece destinations. This year has started great with perfect weather and many old faces that are coming back. With the upgrading of the Kos airport we see more low budget airplanes coming and from what we have heard, Ryan Air will add more flights from different locations in Europe. We try our best and it is nice to see that the "low budget" destination gets upgraded every year and also welcoming a new segment of climbers."
 
Two 9a's get 8c+ by Seb Bouin  (1) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureSeb Bouin, who has done more than 20 routes 9a and harder has repeated two more: Nadesjda near Montpellier and Molasse’son for which he gives a personal 8c+ grade. (c) Sam Bie

"I'm going to try and take a little bit of salt to deal with the following. And I will try to be as objective as possible in my reasoning. First of all, I would start by saying that the quotation of a track may be something that changes between the first ascent and the many repetitions that follow. Indeed, the process of first ascent makes it difficult to take a path. We spend more time, we break the catch, we don't have methods... it's normal that sometimes the quotations move in one direction or another. I have either been decotter or recoter about this, and I find it normal."
 
Ribiere with Sharma, Webb and Graham  Facebook
 
A dream came true for Alex Khazanov  (3) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureLooking at Alex Khazanov's long IFSC result board is amazing and very inspiring, for everyone normally fighting way down in the result list. After four years with great progress as a junior, he was one of the best in bouldering in 2014. At the same time he started off by being #67 and #75 in the World Cup. Again with fast progress his best result was #18, coming into the 2018 season which begun with being #57. In the next one in Moscow he was #7 and decided to use all his savings to go to China. Alex works as a coach and route setter, living a low budget life sleeping at his parents house, and unfortunately the Israel federation can not yet support him with the starting fee for the comps.

"Right now I cannot afford a rock trip if I want to do all the comps, and I am trying to get the Olympic department to give me some money for lead comps as preparation for Innsbruck."

As a preparation for the 2018 season he trained six times a week twice a day for six months. "I like to train alone, that way you can have all the time you want to work on detail, other than rushing between boulders and trying to show who is better."

So how can you explain this amazing - A dream come true story?
It was so unexpected and I am so happy!!
The season is still only half way so we will see what happens. I hope I can make semi next time, haha its always hard in Bouldering. I guess what helped me the most is two factors. One, is physical, I have trained a lot and slightly different than others. But I guess it's my small secret the other one is mental. I climbed extremely free and with no expectations. I was just happy to be in semi finals, and than I was just happy to be in finals. I am not afraid from bad results.

Can you say something about that secret training?
I have a non climbing coach at home. In order to do a slab you sometimes have to do a one leg squat. It's hard to get this power from climbing. So I went to the gym. imagine you on two volumes on the same height, and you need to transfer balance between the two. It will be much easier if you have strong lower back and stabilizer muscles . So you control your body. In the gym I do not use machines. More with a physio ball, weights, rubber bands and rings.

And what about all the jumping around on big volumes?
I just try to make some crazy moves. But all and all I guess if you climb a lot on different types of climbing, rock and plastic you get a better feeling in all styles. As for Slabs, the gym is key. I plan to spend one month in Innsbruck before the World Championship focusing on jumping around.

Interesting is also that Alex has teamed up with Alex Rubtsov and the Slovenians both outdoors and in competitions and they are all Top-7 in the World Cup ranking together with three Japanese.
 
Boulder WC ranking after four events  (1) Facebook
Here is the overall World Cup ranking, counting all four events. There are three competitios remaining and then you count the all but one event. Complete results

1. Jernej Kruder 307 - Miho Nonaka 340
2. Tomoa Narasaki 251 - Akiyo Noguchi 330
3. Alexey Rubtsov 208 - Fanny Gibert 207
4. Kokoro Fujii 197 - Janja Garnbret 180
5. Rei Sugimoto 157 - Stasa Gejo 167
6. Gregor Vezonik 156 - Katja Kadic 164
7. Alex Khazanov 152 - Jessica Pilz 138
8. Jongwon Chon 149 - Chloe Caulier 114
9. Jakob Schubert 142 - E Kipraiianova 98
0. Tomoaki Takata 127 - Sol Sa 95
 
Liv Sansoz trying 82 4 000 peaks in 12 months  Facebook
Liv Sansoz is one of the best female climber in the history. She was the second woman to do 8c+ and she won 11 World Cups and two World Championship. Being 24 years old she took a bad ground fall and had to stop climbing for several years. In 2009, she had a bad base jump accident that kept her in the bed for three months. Later she has broken legs etc multiple times.
 

Karen Varga
Point Break 7c+, Supertubes

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