21 September 2018

Competition and Outdoor synergy is individual

Although competition climbing, especially in Bouldering with all parkour and slabs on volumes, is getting further away from outdoors there seem to be synergy in between the two disciplines for most. Jernej Kruder, the Boulder World Cup winner 2018, is the best example. The Slovenian is rather going outside doing all disciplines rather then training indoors. In reality it is actually very hard to understand how doing trad routes and multi-pitches could help Kruder to win the Bouldering WC often on side-way dynos on volumes. One possible explanation is that it is about the mental game and to be obsessed about pushing 100 % no matter the challenge. Possibly Kruder would not have won the WC in 2018 if he only had trained bouldering indoors as he would have been bored, stopping giving 100 %. On the other hand, the successful recipe for the young Japanese team seems to be hopping around in different bouldering gyms in Tokyo and almost never go outdoors. The great conclusion is that there seems to be totally different patterns available to become #1 and this is something trainers should be aware of. Another interesting point is that almost all the best climbers, out there, have had a successful World Cup competition career. David Graham, Barbara Zangerl, Jonathan Siegrist and James Webb are some of the exceptions of the WC competition and outdoor synergy.
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