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Chipping Established Routes
OffLine User Deactivated
  2010-08-28 00:28:26    

Recently, someone chipped several holds at the shared start of The Oboe, Secret Sharer, Coast to Coast, etc. at the China Cave in Logan Canyon, Utah.   The chipped holds are large “letterbox” slots that make the start about 5.9.
Prior to being chipped, this start had been climbed from the ground by several people, including the first ascentionist of the Secret Sharer.
Before the chipping, many, if not most, people that had climbed the routes from this start would “winch” or “A0” it, using the first few bolts and quickdraws in order to skip the difficult boulder problem start.  

Chipping established routes is, at very least, one of the most heinous displays of disrespect and selfishness that any climber could perpetrate.  
This type of behavior should not be tolerated by the climbing community, let alone condoned or applauded.   It should definitely not be considered as “community service”.
  It is hard to imagine anyone condoning chipping on an established route.   Saying   “it makes the route more fun” or “it sucked to do the winch start” or “other routes there are chipped” or “you don’t have to use the chipped holds” are fallacious arguments.   Why not follow this line of thinking a little further than the end of your own nose.   Here are some suggestions:
·         SuperTweak would be more fun if the boulder problem start was easier.   Let’s drill it out- how’s V3 sound?
·         Don’t like that slippery undercling at the start of El Diablo?   Drill, baby, drill!
·         Don’t like the crimpers at the beginning of Necessary Evil?   No problem!   After a little personalized auguring, you’ll love those moves.
·         Most of the holds on T-Rex are jugs except for a few…pass that fresh drill bit, please.

These are obviously NOT good ideas.  
So here’s a simple suggestion: If a route has already been established, DON’T CHIP IT!   Here’s another suggestion: If you know someone who has made this mistake tell them that it was NOT a good idea and that they should NEVER, EVER do it again.
OffLine Milky "Dad-Bod" Williams
  2010-08-31 22:53:38    
It's happened here at the New River Gorge too.  Eye of Mordor at the Meadow used to be 13b.  It saw at least three ascents before two drilled pockets appeared at the crux bringing it down to soft 13a.  To this day no one has fessed up.  "Chipping established routes is, at very least, one of the most heinous displays of disrespect and selfishness that any climber could perpetrate." I agree with this 100%.