4 January 2006
Static/Dynamic - Muscle/Hold focus
Muscle or Hold Focus: Static optimization
David Lama doing a static lock-off bicep muscle move. |
Technically, Mentally and Fysically challenged on a knee-drop. |
Most climbers aim for a more dynamic style of climbing. However, most of the World Cup climbers are monsters when it comes to static muscle strength! Why this contradiction? Why and When should you strive for static and dynamic movements respectively? How does this relate to mental focus when you are about to do the crux move? The Idea for this article sprang from the problems that many climber friends have with long, overhanging and pumpy climbs. To them i always say:
- Don't focus on the next hold, but focus on flexing your muscles. You should concentrate on getting your lower hand as close as possible to your chest before reaching for the next hold with your upper hand. It is your arm muscles that will decide if you reach and stick to the next hold.
Challenges |
Fysical |
Technical |
Mental |
Static |
High |
- |
- |
Knee-drop |
High |
High |
High |
Dynamic |
- |
Low |
High |
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