19 February 2010

Different Ethics: Sport & Trad

Differences in Trad & Sport ethics   12/11/08
 

The ethics in climbing were invented by the trad climbers who, in a way, invented sport climbing. Over the years the ethics in sport climbing have been modernized/eroded and 8a have since 2003 put together sport ethics and below the main differences atre listed, which in fact show that, today, it is more difficult to project and produce a trad "scorecard".

1. Preplacing gear is today allowed in sport climbing
2. Preclipping is common in sport climbing
3. A sport route to the anchor - A trad route to the top
4. Chipping routes is never the case in trad climbing
5. Cleaning with hammer. In trad they mainly use a brush
6. Variantions/Link-ups, Trad climber only go for the logic line
7. Sometimes Hang dogging bolts placed on sport routes

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