19 February 2010

Height, Weight, Finger Opt.

Heigth, Weigth and Finger optimization   01/04/09
 

Debate/Jens: Different types of rock suite different physical appearances: Height, Weight and Finger sizes. You might be able to optimize your performance by specializing in certain routes/boulders:

Short/Skinny = Long overhanging routes/competitions
Short/Muscular = Very steep bouldering
Tall/Skinny = Long vertical (trad) routes
Tall/Muscular = Vertical bouldering

Of course, there are exceptions: Chris Sharma, Jorg Verhoeven and Josune Bereziartu have performed well in a variety of forms.

Type of rock vs. size of fingers and heigth
Limestone pockets = Children/Women (small fingers)
Limestone tufas = Big hands
Granite lists = Tall (number of lists are often limited=reachy)

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