David Bermudez Carbonell, who earlier this year climbed two 9a’s, has ticked ¡0,7 ya! (8c+) in Cuenca, after working on it for around ten days. (c) Javi Pec

"This route has been a challenge for me as it is undoubtedly the hardest 8c+ I have ever done and since it was bolted in the 90's it has received very few ascents. In fact, it has cost me more than the 9a's I have done. The route is divided into the first 20m which will be like 8b/+, an active rest followed by a 7C+ boulder and finishes on a very technical slab where it is easy to fall off."

Congrats on your latest redpoint! Do you train most weeks to prepare for your projects and the climbing you do outdoors?
On Monday I rest actively and only do some stretching and wrist exercises. Then on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday I train, with Sputnik Climbing plans. On Friday I rest and I climb outdoors on Saturday and Sunday

Do you have other projects and goals in mind?
The next target here in Cuenca is to send El intento (9a), which is a route that I have given some 30 tries already.

Leo Bøe has done Fabelita r2 (9a) in Santa Linya. "Great extension to Fabelita! Suits me pretty well as I am strong on the toe-hook. 2 days last year, and 3 days this trip! The line is quite straight and is one of the cooler climbs in the cave, despite it being a bit bouldery. In total, you end up climbing around 45 meters & 100+ moves to get to the top of the cave!! " (c) Jaume Cebolla Vincent

Is there another climb that you have in mind in Santa Linya?
Now I will try to get through the start of Ciudad de dios (9a), my biggest project!

Fabrizio Peri, who did his first 9a at age 42 and his third at age 49, reports on Instagram that he has repeated Laura Rogora's Tomorrowland L2 (8c+/9a) in Collepardo, after trying it for four years.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying the route before the pandemic. Two years of attempts, specific training, and nutrition I had always under control, but nothing [achieved]. I managed to do it with only one rest but I never succeeded on a move in the center of the route, not even starting from a hanging position... I couldn't give up because I felt that if I had taken that step the route was ready, but that launch [dyno] just wasn't working. The decision is made...I give it up. For another four years, I climbed between the Grottone in Sperlonga and the Pala in Collepardo but my thoughts always went to that passage, there in that meter of the wall at the Cueva. A few months ago I returned, I was determined, I didn't have to be stronger, I had to change the method. And in fact, for the first time, I was able to make that movement that seemed impossible. Then yesterday the north wind accompanied me to the chains!!!!!

How were you able to suddenly solve the crux?
I tried a different beta. Instead of going with my left hand to a closer grip I tried to go with my right to the farthest grip and that movement, which I thought was impossible, turned out to be the right one.

How do you train?
I get to rock climb two times a week and train the rest of the days for about 2 hours for each workout. I alternate strength and endurance training, but I prefer endurance training because it is less traumatic compared to maximal exercises. I also make a couple of trips each year to Spain.

Maya Ene, who earlier this spring climbed her first 8B, has flashed Prince of Thieves (8A) in Joe's Valley (UT). The 14-year-old started to make headlines on Vertical-Life [8a] in 2021 when she did her first 8b+ and last year she sent her first two 8c+'s.

Can you tell us more about your trip to Joe's Valley?
We spent about a week there. Mid-trip I had the chance to climb with four very strong teenagers: Beckett Hsin, Landers Gaydosh, Bayes Wilder and Banlu Rogaway. All of us climbed a couple of problems V10 [7C+] and above. Being in such an impressive company I pushed my limits a lot getting “Prince of Thieves” first try. I also sent: “Death Scream” V10 and “Renaissance Man” V9. “Masterpiece” V13, indeed a masterpiece, became my project, but I was not able to send it.

What kind of beta did you get on your 8A flash?
I watched Landers go first (he was the one who knew the beta because he climbed it before). Beckett was second and he flashed it too. The crux was at the bottom, but the top was still tricky and you could mess it up, however, I believe this boulder was my style.

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Pierre Marzullo sent Supercrackinette (9a+) last November. "A dream came true today 🥹 Didn’t have the words for what I’m feeling right now. I just know that I want to try harder stuff, spent more time on it, and repeat that all my life."

Stefano Carnati, who the last year has sent six routes 9a to 9b, has completed Halupca 1979 (9a) in Mišja Peč. ”Not the style I prefer, but when you figure out how to navigate in the sea of tufas it might be fun.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I believe that for climbers with the proper fitness, figuring out what to do is definitely more time-consuming than the actual send. The Osp cave is not much my place, repetitive movements, same gesture and if you are skilled at kneebaring you get kneebars everywhere and whenever you need. Anyhow it was nice to tick one off here as well!

Yannick Flohé has repeated Moritz Welt’s Lazarus (9a+) in Frankenjura. ”Third ascent ? after Alex Megos. One of the best lines in Frankenjura and my first 9a+. (c) Rainer Eder

The 24-year-old German is foremost a boulder specialist with four 8C+’ under his belt. In 2019, he won the bronze in the World Championship and in 2021, he became the Combined World Champion. The year after, he won the World Cup in Brixen.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Tried it last weekend at 25 degrees and already came close falling in the last hard move. Yesterday I stopped on my way to Munich for a team training camp and climbed it after 4 tries.

What are your competition plans in 2024?
I’ll compete in Salt Lake and the two OQS comps and hopefully qualify for the Olympics. After that I’ll focus more on rock climbing.

Jernej Kruder has done the second ascent of Ignacio Mulero's La bruja (9a) in La Pedriza, which is protected both by bolts and trad gear. The 33-year-old Slovenian has been a very active IFSC competition climber since 2004 and in 2018 he won the overall Boulder World Cup.

Can you tell us more about this hybrid route and your ascent of it?
The route starts with an awkward gaston jump and continues with a very pleasant 6b layback/hands with placing 2 cams (you can use more to feel safer. I wanted to use only 1, but 2 was easier for the belayer). Then you enter a long, power endurance crux with some kneebars (I used only 1 knee pad, Mulero used 2), which ends in a good rest. This section is about 8A/+ boulder problem. Still, my main problem was to recover well enough. After that, you enter a steep crimpy section of approx. 7B+ bouldering. The last crack rail is not too hard, but you're quite tired and before you enter the first hand jams, you can fall easily. Also, you need to protect yourself here. I used 3 small pieces (2x purple- first fell out on my send go, 1x green) and I got rid of a Nr. 4 in the last off-width. I fell several times on the last crack, but luckily never on the top out off-width (although I failed there 2 times only trying it). I was also climbing with crack gloves, just like the first ascensionist, Mulero.

The route has about 70 moves in total, with some no-hand rests. Although it's long, it's also so steep and there's a tree underneath, that you have to be constantly careful, not to get injured. Again, Mulero used a crash pad on the tree, I was rather focused on performance (hit the tree only twice :P ).

What are your competition plans this season?
At the moment I'm not sure if I'll be selected for any of this season's World Cups.

Jakob Bizjak has done Xaxid hostel (9a) in Mišja Peč. The picture is from Umetnost (9a) which was his second, out of four, 9a’s.

"After passing the lower crux 4 times only to fall in the upper endurance part and after being painfully close in May 2023 in the heat and crapy conditions (fell at the last jug after the roof!!), I am incredibly psyched to pull it together this year. Without a doubt the best and hardest line I have climbed so far. Second Slovenian ascent! :))"

Can you tell us a little more about Xaxid?
The route is a perfect long line, very versatile and complex and demands bouldering power in the start and endurance and keeping a cool head all the way to the top. Also because it was right on my limit, I needed to change my approach and strategy to send - balancing life, time management, and conditions with physical and mental shape while not trying the route too much, but focusing on long term improvement was the key to me. I also was in the best shape of my life last May and failed at the very top (I fell [literally] at the last jug before the anchor), but then [I] wanted to send way too badly and stressed - I needed to relax and go with the flow in my opinion. Really psyched for more climbing!