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Forum: TUR / News / Moroni and Noguchi win in Japan Login in to contribute
Moroni and Noguchi win in Japan
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-06-03 00:00:00    
Gabri Moroni and Akiyo Noguchi won the World Cup in Japan after also having won the semifinal. Overall the boulders were a bit too hard with three female and two male not doing one single boulder. Luckily both the male and female comp finished with Gabri and Akiyo topping out with flashes.

1. Gabri Moroni ITA 24 - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 33/5
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 13/1 - Miho Nonaka JPN 33/6
3. Rei Sugimoto JPN 13/4 - Ekatarina Kipriianova Rus 22
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Thomas Salakenos
  2018-06-03 15:15:07    
I think the setting was great ! 7/8 of the boulders were toped in finals. it is way more entertaining than everybody flashing everything.. 
OffLine Opi Brey
  2018-06-03 15:19:33    
this is how good setting looks like! Nice comp. And so happy for gabriele!
OffLine Christian Mengel
  2018-06-03 19:33:15    
Full agreement here! Good setting and a cool show! Nice one Gabri! I would always want Alex as co - commentator but I guess he'll try to make finals again next time :D
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-06-03 19:54:31    
In the Female there was a sequence with 22 minuters without anybody did a single love. Imagine something like this happened in the Olympics. The non-Climbers would just Shake their head and probably would have left tele show.
OffLine Thomas Maatz
  2018-06-03 20:11:17    
Who cares what non-climbers think about our sport?
OffLine Diego Pionez
  2018-06-03 21:01:30    
Gabri maestro!!
OffLine Steve
  2018-06-03 23:31:21    
Big congrats to Gabriele Moroni - what an incredible finale!! It was so crazy to see Tomoa flash the last boulder after every one else failed on it. And then Gabriele came out and flashed it too! My heart almost stopped beating in the moment when he reached the top hold in a rather suboptimal way, which looked like he was about to fall. Man, what a great ending of a great competition!!
OffLine Steve
  2018-06-03 23:36:27    
Also, yeah, maybe boulder 3 of the females was misjudged by the route setters, but who cares, the overall competition was really great. I can't imagine that such a thing would destroy the reputation of the competition climbing scene. I mean, people watch soccer games for 90 minutes where sometimes nothing happens and it's one of the most popular sports in the world.
OffLine Bojan
  2018-06-04 09:12:05    
One of the best comps so far. Even if it took 4 hours it was not boring at all. Although W3 was slightly overcooked several girls were trying hard to do the first move -- in several different ways, so it was interesting for the audience. And Akiyo did it twice. If there is anything to 'blame' the setters, Akiyo was not rewarded the zone in this boulder, even if she obviously did 'more' then others. Anyway, Akiyo won this comp vs Miho on the no. of attempts for the top, so in the end the ranking was fair.

Super happy for Gabri -- what a modest guy!
OffLine rai
  2018-06-04 11:02:45    
@Thomas: Who cares what non-climbers think about our sport? I am 100% with you!!!
OffLine Jean-Baptiste Jourjon
  2018-06-04 11:05:16    
The problem is not to have limited number of ascents, it is to wait between attempts, which always occur in long physical problems.

One try per climber with maximum 10s before starting would be interesting option, with a number of rotations to be defined. In that case other competitors should be close to the problem to avoid wasting time in the transitions.

It would avoid dead times and allow more rest in between each tries, which is better as the essence of bouldering shouldn't be the management of lactic acid...
OffLine Luca Ghiardo
  2018-06-04 15:35:08    
Gabri sei il puma del nostro cuore. Grandissimo rispetto
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-06-04 16:48:35    
As climbing will be an Olympic sport, it is very important for IFSC to make it interesting also for the non-climbers. IFSC has said that one round should take a maximum of 75 minutes and I have been in a IFSC meeting discussing improvements. If two zones would have been used, at least Noguchi could have gotten rewarded for doing one move no other climber did although trying hard for 20 minutes.
OffLine rai
  2018-06-04 18:15:04    
Olympic games have almost destroyed snowboard, and most of the non-mainstream sports are being considered only once every 4 years… So I don't care about being nice to spectators but to the climbing community. In any case new climbers are arriving in gyms by positive word of mouth every single week and that’s quite enough to be honest. As I’ve said I’am also a surfer and in most areas it is now impossible to go surfing on the week-ends (this is why I came back to climbing late 2013, because the spot (Italy) where I was quietly surfing in max 6 in the water, turned out to 60 surfers in a few months: thanks to Facebook in particular…). Jens we are what we are, with our values, our rules, our history and legends, with the comps but mainly on rock; I don't think the current degeneration of sport values (money, doping, is in line with climbing). On top of that, who is going to benefit from a good audience at the Olympic games? Maybe yourself on the site traffic, but not sure as if the mainstream sport media will cover climbing/surfing you may have part of the traffic from the occasional climber staying with l’Equipe or la Gazzetta Dello Sport… In a nutshell priority to the community, I don’t think the money made upon the climbing image will be used to maintain or develop new crags. But this post was about “the Puma of Novarra”: so once again GRABRI SEI UN MITO!!!
OffLine Arnoud Prinz
  2018-06-04 18:20:33    
Haha bad boulder repair by extra zone. Most boulders have just one or two cruxes. Not three or more.

I have to say i dont like the seperated between man and woman. Lot of waiting and when there is not a fun boulders to watch. It takes a lot of time or boring minuts. Just better camara work and director. And male and female can do togheter the finals again.
OffLine Pano .
  2018-06-04 20:07:46    
what Rai said
OffLine Giamo
  2018-06-05 08:40:29    
RAI for president!!!
E Grande Gabri!!!
OffLine Endre Verden
  2018-06-07 19:33:30    
Best final this year by far, exciting all the way. Great setting, great climbing!

Having the men and women finals separated is awesome!
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-06-08 07:18:51    
"Only" seven men and four women in semifinals. That's rather surprising.

And Jens continues his propaganda though without noting that Japanese domination actually decereased. What a farce.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-06-08 11:02:34    
Please check the National rankings and you will see that the Japanese domination is slightly bigger in 2018 compared with 2017.

2018: Japan has 1882 points and the ranked 2-4 countries has 16 % more
2017: Japan got 2118 points and the ranked 2-4 countries got 22 % more

There are two competitions left and it is most likely that Japan will set a new record in 2018 as they only need 236 points to beat their 2017 total score.
OffLine Tj Ovesen
  2018-06-09 06:26:47    
The route setters did an excellent job in my opinion. The way the climbers where forced to lower the body weight in several places seperated in tries, zones and tops. Skill before power, as it should be.
And when Akiyo stuck the first move on w3, the impossible becomes possible.
Great comp!
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-06-09 10:21:41    
@Jens you are so marvelously biased it's hard to believe; actually i think you might be trolling. Total number of points is useless figure; because, most importantly, it heavily dependes on total number of starting athletes and it's so much influenced by who participates and who not. You would have to do much more counting than just stating this figure.

I've given you the numbers previuosly, you did not to react and I think I have idea why you haven't reacted - because you choosed not to react when facing facts ;)
OffLine Steve
  2018-06-09 14:52:24    
The national ranking is actually a good figure when talking about the domination of a nation. In fact, the total number of athletes from a country that can compete on the world cup level is indeed a factor that falls into the definition of a nations's domination. And there it doesn't really matter if all those athletes are rather mid-level or some make it into semis/finals every time.

There are still flaws in this figure, though. Most importantly, the nations that organize a world cup have an advantage, because many local climbers, who don't compete in other world cups, participate. Also, athlete funding is a factor. But again, that one falls under the above definition, as we are talking about who is the dominating nation and not why it is so.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-06-10 15:52:32    
The country ranking after Vail shows that the domination from the Japanese have indeed increased significantly in 2018.

Country ranking
1. Japan 2269
2. Slovenia 1107
3. France 751
4. Austria 584
5. Russia 543