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Forum: TUR / News / Garnbret and Schubert win in Villars Login in to contribute
Garnbret and Schubert win in Villars
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-07-07 00:00:00    
Janja Garnbret looked surperior like last year and cruised the route to the last move going double dyno. Among the male, Jakob Schubert won his 20-iest WC victory. Interesting that Boulder specialist Tomoa Narasaki got his second podium in Lead. Noteworthy is also seven male Japanese Top-19 and three female Top-7.

1. Janja Garnbret SLO - Jakob Schubert AUT
2. Jessica Pilz AUT - Romain Desgranges FRA
3. Jain Kim KOR - Tomoa Narasaki JPN
OffLine Bojan
  2018-07-08 08:31:05    
>Interesting that Boulder specialist Tomoa Narasaki got his second podium in Lead

OffLine Christian Mengel
  2018-07-08 10:45:56    
I thought the setting was really good. Period. That rising right traverse in the mens´ final looked to fun and logical, given the structure of the wall! Ladies´ final looked harder than the mens´ but again, really cool!
This amateur setter shouts out to the pros!
OffLine Opi Brey
  2018-07-08 16:29:41    
how many 9b's could be done if janjaGambret outdooring more...
OffLine Tanka Rhai
  2018-07-09 10:01:23    
@ Opi Brey: Big LIKE!!! ;) ... and if the slovenian National Team would support also projecting routes instead of only letting the athletes try what they can climb in one day...
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-07-09 11:25:27    
Shame camera guy didn't manage shot of Janja Garnbret trying to latch last hold jumping.
Calling "boulder specialist" athlete who previously podiumed lead World cup is oxymoron. Tomoa obviously is no boulder specialist. Even in youth category he did some lead and wasn't exactly bad at that.
OffLine John Render
  2018-07-09 12:42:45    
@ Jan V, Tomoa might also become world-class at speed, if he spent enough time at it. Is there a better combined climber (lead/speed/boulder) in the world?
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-07-09 14:24:18    
@John Render "Is there a better combined climber (lead/speed/boulder) in the world?" I am nor sure, he isn't only one good in all three disciplines and frankly I have no clue how combined result is counted.
OffLine rai
  2018-07-09 15:02:48    
@John Render: I agree with you mate: very serious contender indeed...
OffLine Bojan
  2018-07-09 18:03:22    
With frequent podiums in boulder/lead and speed below 7s there is currently no real competition to Tomoa.

>and if the slovenian National Team would support also projecting routes instead of only letting the athletes try what they can climb in one day

Slovenian team is financially supported for their sport achievements. Outdoor climbing misses some essential attributes to be considered a (real) sport.
Don't get me wrong -- I like outdoor...
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-07-10 11:58:10    
As usual when wrong someone appears to cease existence...
OffLine Gorka
  2018-07-12 13:21:42    
What this really shows is that the current IFSC competition format does not include bouldering as a separate discipline. Yes, of course, those foreign or new to the sport learn to distinguish between “lead climbing” and “bouldering” by whether a rope or a mat is used as security device. But things are a little more intricate than that.

Anybody with experience in both rope climbing and bouldering will know that there are overlapping elements, bouldering on a hard route while roped in or traversing on long below limit climbs close to the ground. You can boulder with a rope and climb without one. What differentiates the two has to do with intensity and volume, rest periods, pace, rest tactics and many other factors.

Most so-called bouldering competitions are in reality onsight/flash focused short-route climbing events, based on incomplete rests between attempts. Unlike lead climbing, the competitors are allowed more than one try but the short amount of rest favours rope-climbers over (“real”) boulderers. That is the reason many of the athletes can easily compete in both disciplines and some of those have actually explained that their training protocols for lead and boulder are similar or at least not necessarily exclusive.

There are some exceptions but most of the best boulderers do not participate in the IFSC competitions. Some of them are invited to the Tierra BB, which seems to be a more interesting approximation to what bouldering is about.
OffLine Bojan
  2018-07-14 09:26:43    
@Gorka: agree with most, but doubt "the short amount of rest favours rope-climbers over (“real”) boulderers." and that is the reason for "most of the best boulderers do not participate in the IFSC competitions".

The rest tactics in a single problem depends on the climber himself and at least in the finals the rest between boulders is cca half an hour.
My guess is the main reason is not the format but it's easier, less stressful and more certain to achieve "good"/media covered 'results' outdoors than on real comps.
So I guess most of best boulderers or 'all-arounders' (e.g. Ondra, Megos, Puccio) take part in IFSC comps not because they like the format, but they have realistic chances to win. At the same time this is the reason why former best comp climbers drop the comps, as they are not competitive any more, but still able to 'perform' outdoors.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-07-14 10:24:04    
Two good reasons why we see some athletes perform well in both disciplines are that the bouldering format is rather endurance based and that Lead routes are now also often set with volumes as Bouldering.
OffLine Gorka
  2018-07-14 11:00:25    
Yes. You're right. But that is only one good reason, they are the same, or almost, essentially. @bojan > you managed to mention the three notable exceptions, good job. I agree with you, even though you forgot to mention that one never would make it even to semi finals in a boulder comp without the required endurance level. The finals are focused on entertainment, spectacular jumpy runs, crowd-facing, party tricks and circus moves. I am not saying this is bad, actually it is really fun to watch, but it definitely discourages the above mentioned "boulderers". This last season has been interesting because several finals included decisive moves that the usual format masters simply hadn't trained for and thus we saw some new faces on the podium, in top positions.
OffLine Bojan
  2018-07-14 12:21:56    
Yes, of course, endurance is important, especially now with Olympic format (all 3 disciplines in one day with very short breaks between them), but I don't believe it's decisive -- if you are able to win the final (with long rests between problems), you don't have problem to pass the qualies (at least not for the short rests).
I think outdoor boulder stars are not prepared to take comps mainly because they don't need to. They don't need to adopt to modern style (you described above nicely), don't need to take risks to fail, don't need to seriously train all year round (with peaks someone else have settled), and certainly don't need to win the comps to make their sponsors happy. Don't need to and are (most of them) not able to. Those who are able are there -- at least for the most important comps (WCh, OG).