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Forum: TUR / News / Excellent show in Vail with four Japanese on the podium Login in to contribute
Excellent show in Vail with four Japanese on the podium
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-06-10 00:00:00    
1. Alex Puccio USA 33 - Rei Sugimoto JPN 34
2. Miho Nonaka JPN 23 - Sean Bailey USA 24:2
3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 13 - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 24:3
Complete results

Alex Puccio, doing her first WC in 2018, was last out and flashed the boulder and secured the victory in front of her home crowd. All boulders were topped out. Among the male, Rei Sugimoto was in the lead before the last boulder which he could not top. Then it was Sean who on his flash attempt could not hold the swing on the top hold and the same situation later ocurred for Tomoa. (c) Eddie Fowke
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Bojan
  2018-06-11 14:20:25    
Great performance by Sean. He was in semis(!) only once before (Vail 2017), 55th in Japan a week ago, and now in his first final strait to the podium :)
Puccio easily cope with Japan 'dominance' ...
OffLine Markus Glück
  2018-06-11 22:25:31    
To be honest just saw the live stream, which was during the mens final quite some time unwatchable. Additionally the route setting was quite strange, boring to watch and dangerous for the athletes. All those frictionless volumes, hooks above their heads, delicate maximum reach moves while hitting a volume with your face (W3). Far from being a great show IMHO.
OffLine Tj Ovesen
  2018-06-12 03:54:17    
Go Rei!
OffLine Tj Ovesen
  2018-06-12 03:54:19    
Vail is a beautiful place for a comp and good to see Puccio crushing. The athletes however seemed exhausted and I personally prefer to see the athletes at their best in a final. Maybe the time between comps in combination with the altitude, time difference was a bit too much.
And the camera man, seriously misplaced. Thank god someone moved him out of the frame.
OffLine John Render
  2018-06-12 04:34:19    
I enjoyed the comp quite a bit: Alex' finish was spectacular, and so was her send of the first boulder in finals. It looks to me like she has improved a lot in what used to be her weaknesses.

My main question is, why did they schedule the Vail event just five days after the Japan WC? The combination of extreme jet lag and 2500 meter elevation took a heavy toll on the climbers. IMO the IFSC should allow more time before the Vail competition, so climbers can acclimate better both to widely differing time zones and sky-high altitude.