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Forum: TUR / News / 9a (+) almost flashed by Adam Ondra Login in to contribute
9a (+) almost flashed by Adam Ondra
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-07-11 00:00:00    
Adam Ondra reports on Insta that he has almost flashed Evan Hau's 45 meter Honour and Glory in Echo Canyon giving it a personal grade of 9a. First he fell by the 4th bolt due to a wet hold. "I lowered back to the ground immediately, rested for a few minutes and "flashed" the route on my 2nd go." (c) Sonnie Trotter

In February, Adam flashed and confirmed 9a+ for Super Crackinette. In 2012, he also flashed a 9a+ but suggested a personal down grade as he did with his first 9a onsight. Adam is well known for being honest giving personal grades that are later confirmed. In total Adam has now done some 200 routes originally graded 9a and harder out of which 182, he has taken 9a credit for.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine InsanityManatee
  2018-07-11 14:37:54    
Very strange
OffLine Joe Crotty
  2018-07-11 16:02:43    
Unfortunate Adam fell due to a wet hold. However things can go wrong; holds break, unseen wet streaks, belay mistake, etc. That's climbing. You only get one flash attempt.
OffLine Arnoud Prinz
  2018-07-11 16:23:59    
How many athletes do you know who climbed a 9a in two minutes? So yes it is story worth it. And who says he get the credit. And what are those credit?
OffLine david friedman
  2018-07-11 16:30:08    
Sorry Adam, this was just another mere redpoint of a 9a...
OffLine Kenneth Rasmussen
  2018-07-11 18:55:19    
Dah David Friedman. It was a super fast redpoint of a 9a, previously considered 9a+
OffLine austin howell
  2018-07-11 19:54:19    
No sorry to Adam... he didn't call a pure flash, he reported accurately. he put "flash" in the quote mark to indicate that it wasn't a true flash
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-07-11 22:52:37    
Please read Ondra’s detailed Insta. He reported exactly what happened and did not call it a flash. He put ”” around it. I am sure it will show up as a redooint in his scorecard.
OffLine Robert Busch
  2018-07-12 10:17:17    
For me it is a huge difference to check out a route completely from start to end and then climb it in a 2nd Go redpoint, or if you flash the route completely with one hanger inside due to a mistake.

To call such a thing as normal redpoint ascent in 2nd Go is totally bullshit and mocks the absolutely respectable performance of Adam here.
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-07-12 11:26:15    
So how would you call the ascent Robert? It is not a flash, but very close to it. A failed try is a failed try, no matter how close it was and I think that is exactly what adds "spice" to a flash or onsight.
Sure, Adam may have the ability to do the route first try, but he did not, so you can not call it flash.
Maybe Adam should have let somebody else climb the route first to check out if the holds are wet.
OffLine rai
  2018-07-12 11:30:15    
@Robert Busch, Adam's performance is yes impressive, it's yes a pity and, probably he would have flashed it, but who knows...?
Any one of us is capable of understanding the difference btw doing a route 2ng go after a missed OS, flash attempt or bolt by bolt first go to study all the moves, but a route is done if you go up to the chains.
So, as far as the climbing community counts for this kind of performance, this is still a (remarkable) second go.
Your post seems to consider it a slash RP: "flash/2nd Go" and that would be something new, but why not...?
For the sake of the clarity, how many of us would have OS'd, flashed, routes that eventually ended-up in the list of our nearly done performances because of broken/wet holds, etc...? And sometimes this is even very good if you do it 2ng go, without the monkey on your back…
In fact: how to you count for routes missed OS with the nose on the chain and then done 2nd go...? Or even more: how do you count for a route missed OS at 1st bolt and then done 2nd go...? We all have a bunch of ones that are still BURNING HARD!!!