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Forum: TUR / News / 8 male Japanese Top-19 in Chamonix qually Login in to contribute
8 male Japanese Top-19 in Chamonix qually
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-07-12 00:00:00    
Alexander Megos, Jakob Schubert, Janja Garnbret, Jain Kim, Anak Verhoeven and Akiyo Noguchi topped both qualification routes in Chamonix. Other then that, all big names but Max Rudigier #76 and Julia Chanourdie #32made it to the semi. Interesting is that eight male Japanese qualified Top-19 and among the female four made it to the semifinal. In total, 92 female and 111 male participated. Complete results
OffLine Miha Pribosic
  2018-07-12 19:49:43    
ok, is it just me or is this "japanese" thing becoming ridiculous?
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-07-12 20:32:59    
In bouldering, we have sen a remarkable improvement from the Japanese. In 2018, they have gotten more than double as many points as the runner up.

In Lead, we are also seeing improvements especially as a team. Tokyo 2020 is around the corner and I would not be surpriced if their overall domination increases. We might just see the beginning of a new era in lead. It is very seldom we see one nation dominate a global sport. Because of this it is newsworthy to follow up their progress.
OnLine Bojan
  2018-07-12 22:23:28    
>ok, is it just me or is this "japanese" thing becoming ridiculous?

No, not only you. Pretty much all reports here start and end with Japan. Slovenia e.g. with four Top-10 female and 16 yr old Luka Potočar (in front of all Japanese) on 3rd place is not even mentioned.
OffLine John Render
  2018-07-12 22:57:47    
If you really want to talk about dominance, every other article should headline Janja Garnbret. No one in the history of competition climbing has dominated like she has. And that's against the best comp climbers ever, including as Jens so often reminds us, the Japanese. e.g. last year Janja won more gold medals in WC events by herself than the entire Japanese team, male and female, did.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-07-12 23:36:16    
Of course and this has been mentioned several times. In the qualification one thing which is interesting is eight male in Top-19.
OffLine The Whistleblower 5
  2018-07-13 07:29:47    
> ok, is it just me or is this ”japanese” thing becoming ridiculous?

”Japanese domination” is the new ”upside-down theory” :)
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-07-13 08:21:22    
Chamonix 2017 = 146 participants and 5 Japanese in semi.

Chamonix 2018 = 202 participants and 12 Japanese in semi.

Based on Japan’s upgoing trend in Boulder where they currently totally dominate it is is interesting that they have started the lead season super strong as a team.
OnLine Bojan
  2018-07-13 08:52:06    
The only place I see 'total domination' of Japan is the headlines of 8a.nu
OffLine The Whistleblower 5
  2018-07-13 13:53:47    
"Based on Japan’s upgoing trend in Boulder where they currently totally dominate it is is interesting that they have started the lead season super strong as a team."

An interesting fact is that in men bouldering, team Japan's share of podium places and athletes in finals has actually decreased significantly in 2018 compared to 2017.
OffLine Philippe Vaucher
  2018-07-13 16:30:45    
>> ”Japanese domination” is the new ”upside-down theory” :)

> The only place I see 'total domination' of Japan is the headlines of 8a.nu

Nice job! Hehe :)
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-07-14 18:24:01    
Well Jens is of course welcomed to write what he wishes but writing rubbish he must expect some critics or even making jokes of him. Now I'd totally agree with Jens if there was some factual arguments behind that, but Jens's argumenting is often downright stupid, sorry to write that. At the same time he is purposefuly ignoring counterarguments which makes things only worse and sometimes writes even wrong facts (I hope he is not doing that purposefuly). All in desperate effort to proves his points.

What arguments we have from Jens now? Just total number of finalists which is very no argument when singled out. At the same time he doesn't even mention number of Japanese athletes, which is of course important because the bigger number, because with number there is possibility of more athletes proceeding in the semis. And he doesn't even mention share of Japanese athletes on the total number, which is also very important of course. Specifically in Chamonix share of Japanese athletes this year was bigger than previuos year! Well no wonder Jens doesn't mention that, it doesn't suit him...; since I've talked to him about that I believe he's done that on purpose. And there other factors I've talked about previuosly. All ignored ;)

At least this time Jens didn't write about one Japanese finalist more in semifinals than in previous year as of big suprise! If it was 1/4 of Japanese athlete, or 1/2 of Japanese athletes, well, maybe it was just surprise, maybe even no surprise, but one whole Japanese athlete more - that is big surprise of course :) (sarcasm)