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Forum: TUR / News / 1.58.07 by Caldwell and Honnold Login in to contribute
1.58.07 by Caldwell and Honnold
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-06-06 00:00:00    
Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell have set their third Speed record of the almost 900 meters The Nose in Yosemite, 1.58.07. (c) John Evans
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Steve Amstutz
  2018-06-07 14:25:00    
They are not humans!!!
OffLine Johannes Boos
  2018-06-07 14:42:41    
Pre-clipped carabiners... is that pink-speeding?
OffLine grubber
  2018-06-07 20:08:17    
They didn't freeclimb it, Johannes, they climbed it. 'Regular' ascents in Yosemite have a pretty significant aid character to them. Doesn't make it any less impressive though!
OffLine Peter Schulz
  2018-06-07 20:31:31    
So they prepare the hard parts of the route with carabiners(perhaps extending them),i mean what is allowed and what is not?
OffLine beppe
  2018-06-07 20:36:44    
Where is the fun at running up in a Jim style?. This picture says a lot to me and means ...nothing. Actually: a lot of risk for nothing. Nothing to be watched nor to be emulated. My opinion.
All my credit to this pair...when they don’t run!
OffLine Johannes Boos
  2018-06-08 00:58:50    
I wasn´t 100% serious about that.....
OffLine Tululo
  2018-06-08 08:26:04    
They just do want the want to do.

All my respect, runing or not!
OffLine Tj Ovesen
  2018-06-09 04:52:45    
Speed climbing got famous after Alex Huber stopped pushing his level. People died.
Again its another stupid way of competing when you can't compete in a normal way to find a way to glory.
OffLine austin howell
  2018-06-09 16:13:42    
“Again it’s another stupid way of competing when you can’t compete in a nomrmal way to find a way to glory

First: climbing is supposed to be fun. These guys looked like they really enjoyed what they were doing, who cares about glory?

Second: This team includes someone who’s arguably the world’s best free-soloist, and another who’s arguably the world’s best big-wall free-climber. I’m pretty sure they’ve got plenty of ways to find glory and they already have loads of it.
OffLine Off The Couch
  2018-06-09 16:52:31    
I agree with you Austin.

Also the Hubers weren't that important in the development of the speed "game". It started with many of the early pioneers shaving times on classic routes like the Steck-Salathe.

Then when Bridwell, Long and Westbay did the NIAD, that's when the real "speed" on El Capitan race started.

Tthe Nose is the most famous rock climb in the world and a perfect crucible for testing one's mettle, whether in days, hours or like these guys...minutes...Congrats gents.

Video below a pretty good overview imo

https://www.redbull.tv/video/AP-1N4VM6MV51W11/race-for-the-nose?playlist=AP-1MD65N6X92111:season:1
OffLine Off The Couch
  2018-06-09 16:57:57    
"So they prepare the hard parts of the route with carabiners(perhaps extending them),i mean what is allowed and what is not?"

Those extensions are likely from another party who is working on the Changing Corners pitch free. Or maybe it's for everyone. There is a shit ton of rope drag on that pitch if you don't have those extensions from what I remember; also runs your rope over a sharp part of the arete..they weren't there bitd.
OffLine Off The Couch
  2018-06-09 16:57:59    
.
OffLine Tj Ovesen
  2018-06-09 17:57:41    
The glory hype of that one valley is just a bit too much in my humble opinion. And yes, speed climbing big walls, I honestly find it ridiculous.And yes, when soloing is sold with a drone in your face I am not inspired.
We all have our different perspectives.
OffLine Peter Schulz
  2018-06-09 21:31:29    
"Those extensions are likely from another party who is working on the Changing Corners pitch free. Or maybe it's for everyone. There is a shit ton of rope drag on that pitch if you don't have those extensions from what I remember; also runs your rope over a sharp part of the arete..they weren't there bitd."

Thanks for the the explanation.
Just out of interest,
are there any rules? Is it allowed to prepare something in advance on this special speedclimb.(like fixed ropes,biners,etc).

i am shure it is a crazy difficult challenge to be the fastest on this famous climb,so they are doing it.
OnLine Jason Crank
  2018-06-10 15:18:14    
Peter, I think the record for ascending a fixed line draped down El Cap (aider climbing) is sub-one hour. There is quite a bit of fixed gear and bolts on the Nose, so the gear list is slim: "Caldwell said they brought 20 carabiners, 15 quickdraws, and 11 cams. He led the first 16 pitches, leaving only six of his cams along the way and otherwise relying on fixed gear for protection."
OffLine Off The Couch
  2018-06-10 18:11:17    
Hi Peter,

The rules I know for speed climbing the Nose is that you start at the beginning of P1 (10d) and the end at the pine tree at the top.

No fixed ropes, biners etc. Most of the bolts are replacements from the original ascentionist, Warren Harding.
OffLine Off The Couch
  2018-06-10 18:11:20    
. delete
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2018-06-11 13:59:43    
Yaaaawn... this is anti news. Maybe they should try out for speed in the olympics?