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Two 8c+' by Domen Škofic  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Škofic, Lead WC winner 2016, has had a great day in Kotecnik where he did two 8c+'; Miza za šest and Beautiful Pain, which he did second go. (c) Just Vidic

How is your training preparations for the Lead WC going
Nothing special, the only thing is that I finally started to climb more outside again and I like it a lot. I feel in a good shape but everybody trains hard and we’ll see what happens this year. I’m just excited for the season to finally start again.

 
 
"Comfort Zone" - Hard core training with Honnold and Siegrist  Facebook
 

 
 
3 climbing Outdoor award winners  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOutdoor in Friedrichshafen is the biggest trade show in the world for the climbing industry, awarding innovative new products.

Vertical-Life won their seventh award and this time through their Smart scorecard for running competitions. - "This is the first ever fully digital solution for running climbing and bouldering competitions. The innovative, user-friendly design is impressive.

MadRock won for their Haywire climbing shoe - "The Haywire rock shoe has the entire toe box made of one piece of rubber thanks to a new moulding technology."

Tindeq won the start up category for their gymnastic rings. - "Training rings with all the functionality of a fingerboard, but lighter and more portable. They also function as rings to allow core training exercises and warm up routines. The high-quality, ergonomic, plywood construction feels great and wont wreck the skin on your fingertips.

 
 
Sixth 8c onsight by Piotr Schab  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab, who just did Biographie 9a+, has onsighted his sixth 8c, Nuria in Cuenca. "So happy to be able to control everything all the way to the top."

Including also eleven 8b+ onsights, the 21 year old Pole should be among the Top-10 best onsight climbers in the world. The superior number one is Adam Ondra with 81 onsights between 8c and 9a. A possibly runner up is Kleman Becan with around ten 8c and 8c+ onsights. Here is an 8a onsight interview from 2005. The first climber to onsight 9a was Alex Megos with Estado Critico.

 
 
Projecting a 9a after a bad accident - looking for uncertainty  Facebook
 

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, with a personal best of 8c, started projecting Rainshadow 9a almost three years ago. In august lat year, she fell up-side-down and was taken to the hospital with a helicopter. In a Tedx event she explains her drive in climbing and that she is actually looking for uncertainty to meet her goals. In all, her talk is a lesson in mental training and part of why we all love climbing.

 
 
Four 8a's in a week by Cathy Wagner (52)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCathy Wagner, who has done 665 routes 8a and harder, has done four 8a's, the last week. Just during the last year the 52 year old has done 60 routes 8a and harder meaning she is having her most productive year ever. Is there any other female who has done more 8a's or has a more wide grade pyramid?

 
 
9a FA link-up by Jon Cardwell  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who previously has done three 9a+' and often gives personal grades, has done the FA of Z Nation in Rifle, calling it a hard 9a. (c) Bearcam

"It's actually a link-up between three existing routes; Zulu, The Crew, and Bad Girls Club. I envisioned the link because another project I have in the canyon had some wet holds and I figured it would be a nice endurance challenge in the meantime. After climbing the first few bolts of Zulu, which is pretty bouldery, you get a good rest and then connect into the Crew via a pretty difficult boulder problem. After that, it's a pure endurance challenge to the end with the most difficult section coming at the last bolts of Bad Girls Club.

 
 
Kaddi Lehman does Kryptos 8C  (44) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatrin "Kaddi" Lehmann has done Franz Widmer's Kryptos in Balsthal becoming the second women to do 8C. It has previously been repeated by Fred Nicole and Kevin Heiniger. She discovered it 15 months ago and since the end of last year she has been projecting it hard. More info on Black Diamond

“I knew in May I wouldn’t have much time. Since it was so warm already, I drove to the area after work late in the evening. I only arrived at midnight. Slept there, got up at 6am, had coffee and some breakfast, cycled or walked up to the boulder, tried some moves, cycled down to the car, drove back and went straight to work. It was hard to get up so early and try hard. People who know me, know that I am not really an early morning person. But all that effort was worth it. I thought even if it didn't work out, I had a nice time outside. And then on the 14th of May I was able totop out this boulder”. (c) Michael Steimle FA video.

 
 
8a Female Climbing Hero - Margo Hayes  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBased on some 1 800 unique votes, Female Climbing Hero?, with 2017 figures in brackets, Margo Hayes were voted #1. Here is a short 8a interview after she did La Rambla 9a+. Later she has also done Biographie. (c) Matty Hong.

18 % Margo Hayes (15)
14 % Angela Eiter (11) and Lynn Hill (35)
13 % Alex Puccio (10)
10 % Barbara Zangerl
08 % Janja Garnbret (9), Akiyo Noguchi
04 % Shauna Coxsey (6), Josune Bereziartu (8)
02 % Sasha Digulian
05 % Other

 
 
Two 8As by Karoline Sinnhuber  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber has done two 8A's in Silvretta; High Society and X-Ray, "FINALLY! Took my Silvretta nemesis boulder down! Shitty conditions in the hole, kinda slippery and dampy next stop: Rocklands!" In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #7 with a perfect score of 10 000 points, having done ten 8A's the last 12 months.

 
 
Hukkataival opens a new sector in Rocklands  Facebook
 


Nalle Hukkataival in Rocklands - The Realm from Kevin Takashi Smith on Vimeo.

 
 
Vail gallery by Eddie Fowke  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio wins in Vail and Eddie Fowke has created a stunning gallery.

 
 
Highlights from Vail  Facebook
 

 
 
Japan dominates the overall ranking  (5) Facebook
 

1. Jernej Kruder 400 - Miho Nonaka 500
2. Tomoa Narasaki 396 - Akiyo Noguchi 495
3. Rei Sugimoto 322 - Fanny Gibert 305
4. Alexsei Rubtsov 296 - Stasa Gejo 222
5. Jongwon Chon 247 - Katja Kadic 202
6. Kokoro Fujii 233 - Janja Garnbret 180

The above ranking calculates all six events before the last event in Munich. Counting all but one, Tomoa and Akiyo are in the lead. Complete results

Country ranking
1. Japan 2269
2. Slovenia 1107
3. France 751
4. Austria 584
5. Russia 543

 
 
Excellent show in Vail with four Japanese on the podium  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Alex Puccio USA 33 - Rei Sugimoto JPN 34
2. Miho Nonaka JPN 23 - Sean Bailey USA 24:2
3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 13 - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 24:3
Complete results

Alex Puccio, doing her first WC in 2018, was last out and flashed the boulder and secured the victory in front of her home crowd. All boulders were topped out. Among the male, Rei Sugimoto was in the lead before the last boulder which he could not top. Then it was Sean who on his flash attempt could not hold the swing on the top hold and the same situation later ocurred for Tomoa. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Biographie 9a+ by Piotr Schab  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has done his fourth 9a+, Biographie in Céûse. More info on his Insta. In the ranking game, the 21 year old Pole is #3. (c)Jan Novak

”I’ve tried it a lot in July 2016, got very close but then the downturn began. I’ve tried to come back 3 times but there was always something disturbing and I wasn’t ready. Noe I came back stronger and mentally fresh and climbed it in the 4th day, just when the conditions and head made it possible. As you can see in my insta the send means so much to me, I’ve felt everything that you can feel on the project while trying Biographie.. so now Just pure happiness, relief and pride.”

 
 
Vail Bouldering WC: 8 Japanese Top-12 in qually  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe sixth and second last Bouldering World Cup 2018, starts today in Vail and there are 91 male and 58 female participating. Last year, 59 male and 55 female competed. Updated qualification results, 8 male Japanese Top-12. Gabri Moroni who won last week was #29 and failed to make semi. © Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing


GMT-6
Saturday: 9:30-11:45 Semi (LIVE) - 14.45. Finals (LIVE)

 
 
8B+ by Rei Kawamata (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRei Kawamata, Youth Boulder World Champion last year, has signed up to 8a and added three 8B's and the well confirmed 8B+, UMA in Shiobara. In the 8a junior ranking game, the 14 year old is #5. More pictures on his also new Insta. (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

 
 
Dave Graham perspectives  (2) Facebook
 

 
 
8c, 8c/+ and 8c+ by Angie Eiter  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngela Eiter, the best female Lead competition climber in the history who last year did a 9b, has done some yet impressive ascents. In Frankenjura she has done Battle Cat 8c in just three attempts and there is more. (c) Bernie Ruech

Today I had a cool sending day in Allgäu in Germany! I completed "Basica 8c/+" and the combination "Andiamo, 8c+".

 
Leo Skinner

dizdira 7C at albarraci
n, spain
 
Gleyses vincent

jean dans Ganache 8a Or
nolac
 
Christian Welkhammer

El Gauhara ss (fb8a/+)
Zillertal, Breitlahner
 
King of Beef City

Bread Loaf Factory (V10
/7C+)
 
Andre Krause

Der König der Welt fb 7
c, Okertal
 
Stefano Ghisolfi

Pure Imagination 8c+, R
ed River Gorge
 
Matteo calledda

Tony Orrù - Cristal Wav
es 7a, Ulassai
 
Matteo calledda

Shangai pizzas contre l
e ninja volant 8a+, Isi
li
 
Sebastian Maya

El Techo del Puma, Ciud
ad Universitaria, Méxic
o
 
Marcin Walasek

Taniec Pająka 8a+, Doli
na Kluczwody
 
Adrien Ruffie

Eclipse (Almenara style
) 7b, Albarracin
 
Gonçalo "Gongas" Coutinho

"Manuel Fruto do Mel" -
6a - Atlântida
 
Fabian Poels

Grotta raptor 7a+, Grot
te d'Oréac
 
Mike Kimmel

Un Rime Estupide 7c+, R
ocklands
 
Michael Alégoët

Recherche en platernité
acte 2 7a+, Fontainebl
eau
 
Nico Ferlitsch

Martin Krpan 9a, Misja
Pec My first 9a! Rea
lly long overhanging tr
averse.
 
Heiko Queitsch

Summertime in the Frank
enjura August 2017 ol
dschool Problem "Käptn
Balubär" fb 7c/7c+
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Search & Add Ascents
Email:
 
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Air sofa as crash pad supplement  (6) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureAn "air sofa" cost like Euro 20 and we have been testing it as a crash pad supplement with great experience. If you are going for a high ball, you can use one or two air sofas as a sandwich in between two crash pads. Actually we have tried to just have the crash pad on top and although pretty high impact, the air sofa did not collapse.

Obviously, it is not good to land on as you will bounce away but for the kids it works fine spotting them carefully.
 
As much static as possible on dynamic moves  Facebook
If you are up for a long dynamic move and the hold you are landing on is a jug. It is pretty simple. Just go as dynamic as possible.

If you on the other hand, is going very long for a smaller hold, it is very important that the dyno is done as static as possible. The reason for this is that once you are going dynamic, you have almost lost all contact with the lower hand. Without and contact strength on the lower hand, it is less likely that you control the upper hand.

In pother words, doing a long move to a not so good hold, it is about being brave and doing the move as static as possible which could mean you are not actually getting the height for it.

It is also about, thinking about your power in the lower hand, meaning NOT focusing on the upper hold. This is pretty advance as your eyes are looking at the hold and fingers which should not, power wise, be in focus. As a matter of a fact, the best way to practice this is that your partner say something like - Lower hand static strength, just when you are about to execute. Otherwise, your reptile brain is most likely to kick in and you launch yourself like a rocket to the next hold.
 
Climbing with kids outdoors  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureKids love to climb but it is rather difficult to make the youngest once start liking outdoors. Indoors it is much easier as the holds are bigger, the mattress are softer and it is easier to be rappelled down, on a vertical wall. In fact, rope climbing outdoors will almost always end up with a problem lowering down the small kids on a slab, especially when they have a full body harness. In such case, it is almost impossible to make the youngsters to lean out backwards to be able to walk down like the firefighter.

In one way, it is best to start climbing by bouldering outdoors if possible. You do not need any climbing shoes. Just help them push their gymnastics against the rock so the do not slip and hurt their knees. The only climbing shoes our kids use is the sandal look-a-like, Grip-it from La Sportiva. These they can use for hours and even walk to and from the crag. All normal climbing shoes they refuse to use. They are simply to hard and uncomfortable.

Do not forget the helmet and once again it should be a cool and comfortable one so it can stay on for several hours. It is also good to have knee pads or rough trousers because the most common incident we have had is bruises on their knees.

It should as always be noted that once inviting beginners to our rock climbing scene, make sure you begin super ultra easy on short walls. In practice this means bouldering grade 2a on 2 meters boulders or 8 meters rope climbing. Then they are of wanting to challenge themselves on more difficult and higher walls. It will not take long until they learn the grade system so you better start setting goals like climbing 100 meters or doing 10 boulders instead.
 
Dream experience?  Facebook
 
Gimme Kraft: Mobility for climbers - lower body  Facebook
 
Grade changes and historical achievements  (3) Facebook
Wolfgang Güllich's Action Directe in Frankenjura from 1991 is known as the first 9a, even if the proposed XI german grade, at that time, was translated to 8c+/9a. Today many in the UK scene think Ben Moon's Hubble from 1990 also should be upgraded to 9a. It just might be that in a few years, the history books have to be rewritten saying Moon put up the first 9a in the world?

An example where the history books already have been rewritten is Bernabe Fernandez Chilam Balam which originally was claimed to be the first 9b+ in the world. Now it is considered 9a+ or 9b. Based on this list we can see that like a third of the 9a ascents now have been listed as 8c+/9a.

The most known example of a grade change is Era Vella in Margalef. It was repeated and confirmed by some 20 climbers before Jonathan Siegrist said that for him personally, he did know other 8c's that were equally hard. This together with also that many of the repeats could be considered personal best, made some others say it should be down graded.

In one way this shows that there are no such thing as confirmed grades that can be written on stone and the same goes for historical achievements. Grades will always be subjective and in practice it means that most probably we will see the history rewritten when it comes to first of the grade. In the same way, this means that professional climbers' CV's also need to stay updated.
 
SLO & ITA dominated in Brunico  Facebook
In the Lead European Youth Cup in Brunico, Slovenia and Italy got nine medals out of which eight in the two oldest categories. Complete results

99: Filip Schenk ITA - Vita Lukan SLO
01: Luka Potocar SLO - Laura Rogora ITA
03: Ondřej Slezak CZE - Lucija Tarkus SLO
 
Amazing solo climbing by Raccoon  Facebook
 
Jerry Moffat and mental training  Facebook
R&I has published a long article where Jerry Moffat explains how he dealt with mental pressure. Jerry was one of the best climbers during the 80’s on rock but had problems to perform in comps.

A week or so later the proverbial light went on. I realized I didn’t need more power, or endurance. I didn’t need to lose weight. I needed to be strong mentally. I needed to know what exactly I should be thinking. If I couldn’t utilize my power or technique under pressure, I would never win."
 
Increased Japanese domination in Boulder WC  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureIn 2013, Japan was runner up in the Boulder World Cup ranking with 1 523 points behind Austria at 1 946. In comparison to the total Top-5 countries score, Japan got 21 %. This figure has been on a steady increase over the years and in 2018, they are 43 %.
 

Ugur Alkan
Kabir Azabi, 7c+, Pelitözü, Turkey

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