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Unfair conditions in bouldering - also for Ondra 
 

The female boulder qualifications started at 10 when it was around 18 degrees and quite sticky conditions. It was finished at 15.47 when it was like 27 degrees in the shade. The problem was that part of the walls had been in the sun for several hours. Add to that 61 sweaty fingers had put chalk on the holds several hundred times on the first holds and it easy to understand that almost no athletes did more than one or two moves on the boulders during the last hour.

As it just took one top to get into the semifinal, it just might be that with a reversed starting order among the non-ranked, we would have seen a different result list. In practice, this means that actually your luck in the tombola most probably would have an impact on your Combined result.

Tomorrow, they have decided to start one hour earlier meaning in practice the unfairness will be increased. The weather forecast predicts 18 degrees at 9.00 meanwhile it will rise to 28 degrees at 13.00. If they instead would have delayed the start to 13.00, the unfairness would have been less.

As it stands, Adam Ondra with start number 56 in his group will start around 13.45 meaning it will be harder for him making it into the semi. The starting list is for the 23 first in each group based on the world ranking and the last 53 goes by random.

Ondra comments on his Insta, " It will not be easy to make semis, especially as I have high starting number and the conditions will be hot and holds dirty, but I will do my best to fly."