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Reduce participants and rank starting order 
 

151 male boulderers competed in the qualification out of which only the first 46 were decided based on their world ranking points, which you can only get being Top-30 in a WC during the last 12 months. This means pure luck in the tombola will have an impact on the conditions you will face. Obviously, being the lucky number one in the starting list lottery will mean better friction on the holds and especially in Innsbruck, competing in possibly 20 degrees in the shadow instead of 29 degrees partly in the sun.

One solution could be to let everyone having been Top-50 the last year in a World Cup, create a second seeding Group. Further more, the ruling World Champion (Adam Ondra) and Top-10 ranked in Lead should also be placed ahead of the second seeding Group.

When it comes to limiting the number of competitors, IFSC could say that a maximum of two athletes are allowed per country beside the guys that qualify having been Top-50 in a World Cup the last year.