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Chongqing WC 26-28/4  Facebook
 

The Chongqing World Cup starts on Friday with Speed qualification and Finals. Interesting is that Adam Ondra once again skip Speed and that Shauna Coxsey and Miho Nonaka are not present. Nonaka has been injured but is scheduled for competing in Wujiang the following weekend. Coxsey has the last week posting swimming, bouldering and surfing pictures on her Insta from Marocco.

Sunday GMT +8
09.30-11.45 Men & Women Bouldering Semi-finals [LIVE]
17.00-18.30 Men Bouldering Final [LIVE]
18.30-20.00 Women Bouldering Final [LIVE]

 
 
Missing Link 8c+ 4th go by Babsi Zangerl  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBabsi Zangerl reports on Insta that she has done Atlantic 8c and Missing Link 8c+ in Voralpsee. (c) Jacopo Larcher who just did Speed Integrale 9a.

First day she checked the moves twice and then after a rest day she sent it directly after placing the draws and checking the moves again.

"I couldn't train so much this winter due to an nerve compression on my old broken disc. I had to rest 7 weeks. So right after the climbing break I started with rock climbing again. It was a big surprise. I definitely think it fits definitely my style."

Ten years ago, Barbara Zangerl was one of the very best female boulderers in the world. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which made her stop bouldering. Including one 9a and several 8c+' she is also nowadays among the best in sportclimbing and the same goes for trad, where she has done several 8b+' and 8c. Even so, big-walls and multi-pitches should be her best discipline with three FFA's in Yosemite up to 8c. So she is the best female multi-discipline rock climber out there, and in fact, a rather superior #1.

 
 
Led-spotlights part of the friction problem solution  Facebook
 

During Boulder World Cup finals, normally each boulder are lighten up by a spotlight just few minutes before the first person enters. Then the holds are in constant spotlight and get continuously warmed up for some 24 minutes. This means that the conditions deteriorate minute by minute which make the last climber, the winner of the semi, face the worst friction.

It should be noted that in the Olympic finals with eight climbers, the last climber face holds that have been in the spotlight for some 32 minutes. The simple solution to get more fair conditions during the finals is to use led-spotlights.

 
 
"Climbing For All"  (2) Facebook
 

Donate money to Climbing For All Sheffield.

 
 
Routsetting game to support CAC  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMarco Jubes: "I have developed a card game that in order to teach, learn and organize route setting for competitions and commercial gym. It is also possible to use the routesetting game to train with the team. Is a nice way to push your limits as a Routesetter and get very nice challenges.

My goal with this game is to share this idea with the setting community. I have already talked with a lot of expert Routesetters and they really love the game. Another thing important for me is with this game I will not get any benefit for the selling. I will give all the money to support CAC (Climbers Against Cancer). The price of the game for me cost around 5€ (design/ production and distribution) and I will sell it for 10€ which means around 5€ directly to CAC.

If you want to order in Europe you can write to info@punksetter.com, to order in the USA info@blocz.com. We are happy to have new distributors in all the countries, interested? just write us!"

 
 
Best Crash Pad 2019  Facebook
 


 
 
Ondra Road to Tokyo #10 - Moscow  Facebook
 

 
 
Heritage 8B+ by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has done her fifth 8B+, Heritage in Valle Bavona. (c) Robin O'Leary

Including also 26 8B's, Alex has the most impressive female tick list and a wide pyramid foundation for going for 8C. In 2014, she got the silver in the world championship and she won her last and only World Cup she did in 2018.

"Wow.... psyched! 1st try on my 6th or 7th day. I fell off the last move 3rd day on it 2 times and then for the next days I was struggling to stay on the wall due to the warmth and high humidity! Finally got a windy, but warm day. Didn’t even warm up. Last day best day!!!! :)

This boulder is way harder being under a certain height! Have to hop out of the toe hook for the first crux move to the left hand gastone and then the last move to the right hand just under the lip is WAY harder since for my height you can’t use the good left lower foot others use. Have to ball up and punch to the last hold. Was a huge crux for me!!!"

 
 
Inferno 8B+ FA by Facundo Langbehn  Facebook
 

 
 
Two 8B FAs in Kochel by Toni Lamprecht (48)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToni Lamprecht, legendary hard core FA-ionist in all disciplines; 9a routes, 8C boulders, 8c MPs and 8c DWS, has opened another two 8B's in Kochel, Jessica Jones and Tyler Durden.

"I worked the whole winter (2-3 sessions in the week, depends if I go skiing or not) on a really hard (8C?) roof project. So "Tyler Durden" is the exit of that project in combination with a 8a+-finish. I tried that 4 days, but I know the exit really well, because it is the finish of "Marla Singer" from 2004.

"Jessica Jones" I tried on and off for the last 2 years. It is a crazy short problem with 3 moves. Needed 20 sessions to figure out the right solution and another 3 days to combine it. There would be an 8B sit start to it. Next season? I guess, because the temperatures jumped over 20° now. I might go surfing or do some multipitch stuff near by."

 
 
Paint it Black 8C by Matt Fultz  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatt Fultz has done his first 8C, Paint it Black in RMNP. The 27 year old has had almost ten years progress and is currently #7 in the 8a ranking.

Video on his Insta, where he comments. "I don’t think it’s the hardest climb I’ve done, and I’m encouraged to know that it is far from my potential. Psyched!"

 
 
Harakiri 8a+ by Cathy Wagner (53)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done her 8a+ # 153, Harakiri in Camp. "A fantastic route! The higher the harder ending with a nasty boulder."

With 47 8a's, 13 8a+' and two 8b's the last 12 months, the 53 year old continuous to perform at her best ever.

 
 
Shangrila 8c+ by Moritz Welt (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt has done Guido Köstermayer's, from 1995, Shangrila 8c+ in Frankenjura. In the 8a Combined ranking the 17 year old is #4. (c) Lars Decker

So happy to climb the ultraclassic "Shangri-La" 8c+ today! Tried this beauty once last summer and had no chance, but last week when I figured out the moves again, it felt completely different! Glad that everything worked out perfectly today!”

Next is trying to do Alex Megos' straight up version, Nice Freshly Baked 9a from 2014.

 
 
Best Climbing Shoes - La Sportiva  Facebook
 

Based on almost 3 000 unique votes, here are the result for - Best Climbing Shoes 2019? La Sportiva continues their domination and Scarpa gets another improved result. Five Ten drops some percentage again.

43 % La Sportiva (44 % last year)
28 % Scarpa (20)
10 % Five Ten (14)
07 % Others (7)
06 % Tenaya (6)
03 % Ocun (5)
03 % Boreal (5)

 
 
El Bon Combat 9b by Felipe Camargo  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureFelipe Camargo reports on Insta that he has done Chris Sharma's El Bon Combat 9b in Cova de l'ocell.

"I dreamed with @davidlama_official last night, woke up super sad...posted about him and was thinking of him all day...the pressure was just totally off, I put things in perspective and felt like it didn’t really matter if I sent anymore...at least not today! I gave a good first try but broke a foot hold and fell. On my second try the wind kinda of stopped, I made through the first crux, got to the kneebar rest and for the first time I didn’t feel any pressure...

All I could think while resting was how fucking good @davidlama_official climbed...I remembered some of the World cups that I watched him win, climbing so confident and so relaxed, the wind picked up again and i just went for it...didn’t hesitate, climbed fast and sent!! I clipped the anchors and just started crying immediately..."

 
 
Festival in Ikaria 15-17/6  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDon’t miss the chance to visit Greece’s new favorite climbing destination that combines extraordinary bouldering and amazing sport climbing. Ikaria, the island holding the secret of longevity, has incredible natural beauty, with extraordinary, gigantic granite formations for bouldering and breathtaking marble walls for sport climbing. Ikaria is called “the Mountain in the Aegean Sea” and is a most welcome climbing discovery of our time. Visit the site here, and register for the festival here.

 
 
Papichulo 9a+ by Seb Bouin and Kamil Ferenc  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSeb Bouin and Kamil Ferenc have done Papichulo 9a+ in Oliana. Chris Sharma put up the stunning almost 50 meter line in 2008 and with 20 repeats it is the most repeated 9a+ in the world. Seb has previously done nine 9a+ and two 9b's and Kamil has previoulsy done eight 9a's. Next project for Seb is La Dura Dura 9b+. (c) William Barchelo - Seb Bouin

 
 
Moscow male analysis  Facebook
 

 
 
Intermezzo XY gelöst 9a by Nico Ferlitsch (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNico Ferlitsch, has done his second 9a in just 10 weeks, Intermezzo XY gelöst in Plombergstein. "I tried "Intermezzo XY gelöst" for only 4 days. This 9a (my third one) is pretty short and has a boulder problem at the beginning. I really like routes like this and I almost feel sad that it's already "over". But the crag Plombergstein near Salzburg has a lot more hard routes to offer. I'm not yet sure what exactly the next project will be but for sure it's going to be 9a or upwards."

 
 
Pedra, Paper, Tisora 8c+ by Angie Scarth-Johnson (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c+ at age 12, has done her second, Pedra, Paper, Tisora in Margalef. The Australian is home-schooled and will spend six weeks in Spain this spring as she also has done before.

"It took me a couple of days but I was on it last year. I had an finger injury and was unable to send it due to that. So I’m super glad I could finish it off this year."

 
 
Competition and Friction  Facebook
 

Mic Rathke has published some concern in regards competition fairness in bouldering in Routesetter anonymous. 8a has talked about this issue for twelve years as it seems more favorable to be #6 in the semi, meaning that you start first with better friction in the final.

"Competitions should be fair, but we (the climbing community) face an issue with fairness. Our issue at hand mostly deals with slopers, they get full of chalk, bodily fluids, skin, and most of all the original friction wears away like sandpaper. The difficulty (grade or rating) of a climb gets harder in the matter of one session. This is an issue for the later people that climb on the same holds in the same competition.

Our current resolution is a brush and chalk, however this does not resolve the issue of replacing the original grip of a hold. With the Olympics coming up, how can we resolve this issue before 2020?"


It should be noted that in the Olympics, there will be eight to the final, meaning the friction problem will be a bigger issue in Tokyo.

 
 
The Kingdom 8C (B+) by Daniel Woods  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods reports on Insta that he has done Carlo Traversi’s The Kingdom 8C (B+) in Brione. Daniel has previously done 28 boulders 8C and harder which means he is #1 in that ranking. In the 8a ranking game, the 29 year old is #2 after Jimmy Webb. (c) Stefan Kuerzi

 
 
Battle Cat 8c (+) by Gabriela Vrablikova  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGabriela Vrablikova has done her first 8c (+), Battle Cat in Frankenjura in just six tries. Interesting the 28 year old Czech has only tried one 8c before so we are again talking about a late bloomer.

"I work as a physiotherapist so we had to plan it with my new coach, Petr Klofáč very carefully. We are working more complex in more areas - not just physical training, but mental training, regeneration and food. Training my mind helped a lot as well and of course Battle Cat is beautiful route so I really enjoyed climbing it! Now I am gonna enjoy some hot chocolate.

My next project is to find some sponsors for my dream project - one hard multipitch in Ratikon and I have never been to Spain so I want to go there this year and climb something harder."

 
 
Keen Roof 8B by Frances Bensley  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFrances Bensley has done her second 8B, Keen Roof in Peak District, in just three sessions. (c) Jonathan Bean

Interesting is that Frances did her first 8A only 18 months ago so wee are talking a late bloomer as she started climbing almost 20 years ago at age 7.

"I realized that all of the hardest things I had climbed had only taken a few sessions or a session to do. I had a goal of climbing 8b+ and 8A last year and managed that. At that point maybe I started to realize that in my own style I might be able to climb harder, but just need to find the right problems. Additionally I have made a lot more effort this year to try and identify and work on my climbing weaknesses. I am sure this has helped my climbing overall.

I have never had any structure to my training before January - I climbed a couple times a week and I tried hard, either climbing general blocs or a fun board session, but there was never a plan, very little finger boarding (I would occasionally pull onto a finger board maybe a few times a month but with no consistency) and I didn't matter if I only climbed once a week or three times a week.

I recently approached Dave Mason and I now have a weekly training plan to follow - its hard work for me because structure is something I struggle with, but it's also good and I'm feeling quite strong."

 
 
Black Mamba 8c trad roof by the Wide Boyz  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PicturePete Whittaker and Tom Randall, one of the best crack climbers out there, have made another hard first ascent in the Utah desert, Black Mamba 8c which may be their hardest roof crack yet. Whittaker describes the first ascents: (c) Talo Martin

"The route is like a mining tunnel, you walk to the back and start in a crouched position with a head torch on and can’t believe you now have to climb the same distance you just walked…but completely upside down.

Nevertheless, it’s as much about being tactical as it is about having the strength and endurance to be able to climb it. It required a head torch lit start, 3 hand jam glove changes, a rope tie mid pitch and toilet roll cushioning for tricep protection. It usually ends up that we use these bizarre tactics because we’re so focused on the climbing we forget to bring the more conventional tools to the crag, i.e. elbow pads or proper lanterns.

There are 4 distinct cruxes. 2 are finger jamming, 1 is thin hands and the final redpoint crux comes as a heart breaking last move; rounding the lip of the finishing off width. The key beta here was to make sure that the nose of the roof sat in the indentation below your sternum. Any lower with your torso and you’d unfortunately come up short every time.

The final off width in general is a little fighter. On its own it is a struggle, but with the continuous upside-down climbing beforehand, it’s a real world of dread when you finally get there on the big redpoint. If the route stopped before this, the whole thing would be like a beef sandwich - reasonably meaty. In totality, it’s that final 9 inch section that really makes it a full Sunday roast."

 
 
Mamichula 9b by Seb Bouin  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSeb Bouin has done his second 9b and the first repeat of Adam Ondra’s Mamichula in Oliana. Including also nine 9a+, the French is getting closer to the Top-5 best tick list. (c) Jan Novak

I had the best belayer possible for this route, my super Mami (mom). Last trip, on the last days, I felt on the last move before the rest. I am happy to finish the job! I have to say that I used kneepad for this route. It's my hardest route on the paper.
Yet maybe not in the reality . I am psyched to see some climbers in my latest mega lines in France (French Chilam Balam and "la côte d'usure").

 
 
El Dorado 9a by Jesús Muñoz Chuchi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJesús Muñoz Chuchi has done his first 9a, El Dorado in La Pedriza after some 20 days of projecting. His previous best was an 8c FA in 2015 but when it comes to bouldering he did an 8B+ last year. (c) Talo Martin

"El Dorado is a route of few movements and although it can be categorized as a boulder, it also requires having a good rpower endurance to be able to send it.The first six movements, from my point of view, will go around 8B. The next section is very athletic, but somehow simpler, around 7c. Finally we reach the final step that is a long dyno. In isolation, only this final movement is like a 7C. Then there is a section of three meters on a much easier slab that does not add any difficulty.

I have had to adapt my training by increasing the days of resistance training and maximum strength since the route demands both qualities.
" More info on his Insta

 
 
IFSC/IOC Olympic movement meeting  Facebook
 

Last week, IFSC had invited important stakeholders from the media, brands, gyms and experts to discuss the Olympic movement together with three representatives from IOC. You would think that this would mean three 60+ male but instead IOC did show up with three female 35-40 years old. Interesting is that in the end 8a was the only media present.

We did get explained how the bidding process for Tokyo and Paris have been taking place. In short, it seems IOC told IFSC that you can come with an application and you have best chances for being approved with one set of medal in Tokyo and possibly two sets in Paris.

From a general perspective, the indoor boom was discussed and the risk for getting climbing into the Olympics as well as if IFSC should take any stand in regards outdoor, ethics and the environment. The big change in competition format and IFSC competitions were also discussed and if it could be possible to qualify to the World Cups by getting points first in local and later regional competitions. There were not enough time to discuss how to make competition climbing more understandable and how to minimize the risk for strange thing to happen. However, 8a was asked to send in our thoughts.

 
 
Kruder wins great show for Slovenia again  (32) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJernej Kruder qualified last so he started first in the final where he executed them almost perfectly, doing them all in just eight attempts. He was third into the last boulder which he did first go saying, he thought it was too easy. Later nobody come even close. The big sensation was 15 year old Rei Kawamata who qualified to the final as #2. Last year he won the Youth WCh in Moscow and he also did his first 8B+.

1. Jernej Kruder 44* SLO (c) Eddie Fowke
2. Adam Ondra 34 CZE
3. Yushiyuki Ogata 33 JPN
4. Anze Peharc 23 SLO
5. Rei Kawamata 13 JPN
6. Vadim Timonov 13 RUS
Complete results
* 8a presents the results as points by just skipping the Z and t from the normal scoring.

 
 
Ondra Road to Tokyo #9 - Winning in Meiringen  Facebook
 

 
 
From too hard in the semi to too easy in the final  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIt seems the route setters, based on the few number of tops in the semi, made some late changes, resulting in too easy boulders in the final. All the podium topped all four boulders and Janja Garnbret won by doing them all first go. Noteworthy is that Slovenia, with just 2 million inhabitants, was superior by getting two golds and another two in the finals.

1. Janja Garnbret 44* SLO Eddie Fowke
2. Shauna Coxsey 44 GBR
3. Fanny Gibert 44 FRA
4. Lucka Rakovec 34 SLO
5. Jessica Pilz 34 AUT
6. Futaba Ito 33 JPN
Complete results
* In order to make it more understandable 8a has started to take out the T and z and just present the score with points.

 
 
Way too hard female semi setting  (2) Facebook
 

The commentators in Moscow said that they did not think the route setters over cocked the female boulders they in a good way challenged the very best. I totally disagree. The purpose of the qualification and the semi final is not to create a nice challenge for the best climber. It is about getting the Top-20 and the Top-6 in a nice show for the spectators. Further more, these rounds should be fair for the athletes.

Route setting is super hard and it is amazing how often they are spot on. However, there will always be situation when the boulders were too hard. The best way to make them fun to watch and fair for the athletes is to add one more zone.

 
 
Moscow finals 17.30 Euro time  (5) Facebook
 

 
 
Moscow semi 10.00 - Sunday  Facebook
 

 
 
Ondra superior and 3 zones made female final in Moscow  Facebook
 

In possibly, the hardest ever boulder semifinal, Futabo Ito qualified to the final by just getting three zones. Shauna Coxey and Janja Garnbret were the only ones topping out two boulders. Complete results

Among the male, Adam Ondra started first and topped out all four quite easily. In the end, Rei Kawamata was runner up with 2T4z as was the score for the Top-7 so the number of attempts made the cut. Interesting was that we saw possibly 30 attempts where the climbers touched the top but failed. All in all, 17 made four zones and all 20 made three zones.

 
 
Two 7C+' by Patti Wohner (45)  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePatti Wohner, who did two 8A's being 41 years old, is back on track after a muscle injury and has done two 7C+, 3D and Slow Dance in Bishop.

"I struggled with "stiff muscles" for about a year and a half, trying to figure out what was going on. I ended up with pretty bad scapular winging in January which prevented me from climbing at all. Finally I started seeing a shoulder specialist, Jessi Delong in Bishop and she fixed me right up. I'm so grateful to her and I'm excited about getting outside again now that my muscles work again!

I was having issues for about a year and a half where my muscles would not loosen up. I climbed as best I could at a lower level during that time. Its been about a month now that I've been feeling better and steadily getting stronger."


Three months ago Patti released her first adventure novel Desert Dirtbag, where we can follow a gym climber who dreams climbing hard Hueco Tanks.

 
 
7 Japanese to the semi and Schubert fails again  Facebook
 

Jernej Kruder and Rei Sugimoto won their respective group in Moscow. In total, Japan got seven into the semi Top-20 and they participated with just eight guys as the Narasaki brothers skipped Moscow. Other than that, Russia and France got three into the semi. Once again Jakob Schubert, Gregor Vezonik and Sean McColl did not make it to the semi as in Meiringen. Interesting is also that Adam Ondra was #10 in his group very close to have missed the semi. Complete results

 
 
Graceland 8B+ by Christof Rauch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch, who has done more than 500 boulders 8A to 8C the last five years although working full time, has done Graceland 8B+ in Allgäu. This was his fourth 8B+ the last four weeks and in 2019 he has done 42 boulders 8A and harder, including two 8C's.

"Finally! Thought I could do it quicker, took me 4 sessions to put it down but had some bad luck last session. Pretty hard shouldermove, my left shoulder (slightly injured since a few years) hurted after every session but I wanted to link those rad moves sooo bad!"

 
 
Five onsights by Garnbret in Moscow  (1) Facebook
 

The Boulder World Cup in Moscow has just started and Janja Garnbret walked away with a clean score onsighing all five boulders. (Normally the word flash is used for doing a boulder first try in competitions but in reality it is an onsight as no beta was given to the athletes.)

Fanny Gibert won the second group and Austria got five semi-finalist, Jain Kim failed to make the semi again as in Meiringen. Complete results

 
 
Moscow Speed Finals  Facebook
 

 
 
Arco Rock Star 2019 - Photo contest  Facebook
 

 
 
Mickael Mawem could get a medal if he qualifies  Facebook
 

Mickael Mawem is currently totally superior among the non-Speed specialists. In Bouldering he is #16 in the world ranking. As the Combined score is done through calculation, the winner of a discipline in the qualification in Tokyo is guaranteed to make it to the Top-8 final. Well in the final, placing #4 in bouldering and winning Speed, Mickael is most likely getting a medal.

The twist in this story is that it is probably harder for Mickael to actually qualify to the Olympics rather then to get a medal. The reason for this is that beeing the fastest among the non-Speed specialist is not so much worth during the qualifying process. Mickael was #23 in Moscow and possibly ten of these guys will compete in at least two Boulder and Lead events.

This means he would get a multiplication factor of #11 at the same time most of his competitors for Tokyo will get a factor of 15 to 33. Thus, the Speed importance is only critical when all the Speed specialists have been taken out from the result list, which will happen in Tokyo.

 
 
Mawem brothers 5.699 and 6.344  (2) Facebook
 

Bassa Mawem won the Speed qualification in Moscow at 5.699 where seven did sub six seconds, which is a new record. However, most interesting in regards Tokyo 2029 was his brother Mickael doing 6.344. Other than that, Keita Dohi did 6.831 and Manuel Cornu 6.900 among the non-Speed specialist. Complete results

Among the female, Iuliia Kaplina was superior with 7.464. The fastest time by the non-Speed specialists were Elena Krasovskaia with 9.051 and Petra Klingler with 9.539. The biggest improvement in comparison to last year was done by Janja Garnbret with 10.050. Noteworthy is that some of the big names continue to struggle with mid 11 seconds like; Shauna Coxsey and Fanny Gibert.

 
 
The Story... 8C by Keenan Takahashi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus reports on Insta that Keenan Takahashi has done The Story of Two World’s 8C in Cresciano.

 
 
8B+ by Zou who started climbing in 2014 at age 26  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureZhanan Zou, a.k.a. Bruce, has climbed Ty Landman’s Midnight Express 8B+ in Boulder Canyon, potentially becoming the first Chinese climber to climb the grade. Previously he had done two 8B's. Bruce started climbing at age 26 after moving from China to Boulder, Colorado in 2014. A week before the ascent of Midnight Express he successfully defended his PhD thesis in Mechanical Engineering. He wants to continue to pursue his research, and hopes to develop boulders in China, to open up a new level of climbing for Chinese climbers. Video finishing with screaming louder than Ondra and Sharma together :) (c) Cesar Valencia

 
 
Does climbing make kids smarter?  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTwo weeks ago I read an article saying Kids skiing gets smarter. The explanation is physical activity but also learning how to concentrate and improved coordination etc. Personally I would say that possibly it also relates to all the decisions the skiing kids have to do going down the slope.

During the years I have been chatting with dozens of kids 12 - 15 years climbing very hard and almost always I have been shocked about how smart and mature they seem. It could just be that all the problem solving situation they have faced they have developed their brain making them much smarter and mentally stronger, which could be part of the reason why they climb at the same level as the adults?

Yesterday in an IFSC meeting in Lausanne, I met Charlotte Durif and we discussed the subject. In 2005, Charlotte Durif (15) was the best female onsight climber ever and she was at that time even among the best male. We sent her some questions in French and our translator Jones Belhaj, big brother to Said, told us that he had never come across a 15 year old expressing her self in such a mature and advanced way -

"He had to simplify some of her equilibristic words and sentences in order to make them understandable for everyone."

Charlotte, five times Youth World Champion, won the Euro Championship being 15 years old and she is the first female to have onsighted an 8c. In 2011, she became the second women to do a 9a. In 2017, she got her PhD and got attributed the grade of Doctor in Chemistry and Physical Chemistry of Materials! Currently she is based in Salt Lake City working as an consultant to IFSC focusing on the Olympic movement.

 
 
La danse des Balrogs original 8A+ by Marine Thevenet  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMarine Thevenet, #7 in the Boulder World Cup in 2014, reports on Insta that she has done Fred Nicole's La danse des Balrogs original 8A+ in Branson, in just three sessions. In total she has now done 27 boulders 8A to 8B and her goal is to do 30 before turning in few months. (c) Clément Lechaptois

"I prefer to spend my week-ends discovering boulders instead of climbing gym or during competitions. But it doesn't mean that I stopped climbing or training!"

 
 
Narasaki's and Noguchi skip Moscow and no Speed for Ondra in Moscow  Facebook
 

From the Moscow starting list we can see that the Narasaki brothers and Akiyo Noguchi will not participate. Further more, all top guys but Adam Ondra will do Speed.

Interesting that three of the Top-2 in Meiringen seem to think that "less could be more" in the very long 2019 season ahead of them. The Narasaki brothers and Noguchi are back in track for Chongqing 27/4 doing both disciplines but Ondra has not yet signed up for any Speed World Cup.

 
 
Best Climbing Shoes - 2019?  Facebook
 


 
 
Digulian and Mitchel FFAs El Salto big wall  Facebook
 

 
 
 
Bombero de la Roca 7a+ in Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done two impressive FAs in Camaiore; La Terza Eta 9a which he did in four tries and Naturalmente 9a+.

"One of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say."

The level is going up in 2017 and Ondra is leading the pack. During four days, the 23 year old has done two 9b's, two 9a+' and two 9a's. It will be interesting to follow the progression during 2017.

 
 
Pau Contreras en Wonder boy (8b) FA, Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
Rescat Emocional (7b+), Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

 
 
Hungry Monkeys in Railay  Facebook
 


Hungry Monkeys from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

 
 
Tredje 8a av Olof Morsing (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing, som togs ut till J-landslaget efter att ha kommit #19 på Europacupen i Imst, har gjort sin tredje 8a, Musen i Vikskile och dagen innan gjordes Trettio-åriga kriget 7c+. Tidigare i år så har 14-åringen onsightat sju 7c. Bilden är från Träleberget 2015 av Olof Hedberg.

 
 
Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

 
 
8b av Hannes Puman på Örnberget  Facebook
 

Hannes Puman har gjort Breaking the lwa 8b på Örnberget. "I spöregn och åska. Spännande. Använde inte enfingerspocketen."

För två år sedan blev Hannes juniorvärldsmästare och förra året junioreuropmästare. Första tävlingen på Världscupen i år är Briancon 23-24 juli.

 
 
Mer renoveringsbultning i Stockholm  Facebook
 

Stockholms Klätterförbund rapporterar att man har bultat om och lagt till bultar samt rensat Anneberg som är en av de mest tillgängliga klipporna i Stockholm. Trenden med att lägga till bultar på lätta old-school leder för att göra de mindre farliga fortsätter i hela Sverige.

Säkerhetskommitten har vidare fått i uppdrag att skriva om den nationella bultpolicyn baserat på en motion till förbundsmötet.

 
 
Två 8c i Flatanger och Två 8A (+) i Västervik av Hannes  Facebook
 

Hannes Puman, som precis har tagit körkort, tog först bilen till Västervik och satte två 8A (+), So I Fly och Animal Act. Sen bar det iväg till Flatanger där två 8c gjordes, Muy Verdes och The Valkyrie.

Nästa resa sker med flyg till Warsawa för att tävla på Europacupen i Bouldering till helgen. Man kan tycka att köra 30 meters takturer inte är bästa förberedelserna för en bouldertävling men Lead är fokuset för J-Världsmästaren även i år.

 
 
9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti."

In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

 
 
8b onsight av Erik Grandelius i Norge  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureErik Grandelius har onsightat Slettakraft extension 8b i Slettafossen vilket är en, "Link-up of 7c into 8a+." Sista månaden har han även onsightat ytterligare tre 8a i Norge. (c) Paula Voldner

- Var i romsdalen för att göra lätta fjällturer men han få in lite sport på vilodagarna :) Vi klättrade bland annat Romsdalshorn 5+, (c) Paula Voldner, och Mongjura 25 replängder 6+. Nu är jag i Flatanger med ambition att göra Brunnhilde 8c.

 
 
Fem 7c onsight av Olof Morsing (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing är nu uppe i fem 7c onsight på Kalymnos inklusive den ansett hårda Aegialis. Förra året så var perset fem 7a+ och en 7b+ onsight så utveck- lingen går mycket snabbt 14- åringen.

 
 
8b+ av Kristoffer Lindbäck i Niemisel  (3) Facebook
 

Kristoffer Lindbäck har gjort sin första 8b+, När Lammen Tystnar i Niemisel. Tidigare i vintras kom han #4 på SM i Lead och det var hans första leadtävling. Supertalangen som numera tränas av förbundskaptenen har bara klättrat i fem år då han slutade fotbollsgymnasiet.

 
 
Två 7c onsight av Olof Morsing (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing, som precis har tagits ut till J-landslaget efter att ha kommit #18 i Europacupen i Imst, har onsightat Hogo Fogo och Neolitic Line på Kalymnos. Sammanlagt har 14-åringen onsightat fyra 7c i vår så vi pratar ny svensk talang med grym utvecklingskurva.

 
 
Ungdomsläger i Lysekil nästa helg  Facebook
 

Lysekils KK bjuder in till Ungdomsläger nästa helg med start på lördag kl 10.00 vid Trellebystrands Camping. Man vänder sig till 9 till 13 åringar som klättrar dock krävs ingen utomhuserfarenhet. Kostnaden är 0 kr men man måste vara medlem i Lysekils KK som kostar 130 kr. Ledarna är bland annat två erfarna 16-åriga tjejer.

 
 
Close to 6 000 crags in the database  Facebook
 

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

 
 
Jon Cardwell has done Biographie 9a+: Interview!  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who did his first 9a in 2008, has done his long-term project, Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. It was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Chris Sharma made the FA in 2001. Biographie has seen 13 ascents to date, which makes it the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Carlo Traversi

Check out Jon's comments for his nicest journey that took ten years and included 75 tries.

- Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"

 
 
Mycket lyckat J-SM på Klätterdomen  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDet rapporteras om ett mycket välorganiserat och uppskattat J-SM på perfekt utslagsgivande leder i både kval och final, arrangerat av Kvibergs KK, Kolla videos. Barnen som topprepstävlade och fick prova olika grenar inom klättersporten njöt i fulla muggar.

97: Fredrik Serlachius
99: Nea Herforth & Ymer Alber, se bild
01: Olof Morsing & Ella Kallas
03: Sofie Asterling & Dennis Yakubenko
05: Linda Asterling & Simon Borgh

Kvibergs KK tog tre guld och bland pojkar 01 var fyra av de fem bästa från arrangörsklubben. I de två yngsta tjejklasserna var de fyra bästa från hemmaklubben. Det enda tråkiga på J-SM var det låga deltagarantalet och var sammanlagt bara två i de äldsta klasserna. Vidare sammanlagt bara sju i de tre äldsta tjejklasserna. Största klasserna var i barnklasserna med deltagare från fem år.

 
 
Megos lovordar Västervik igen  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos som numera delvis är bosatt i Stockholm har återigen besökt Västervik som han lovordar på Facebook.

"Back again in ‪#‎västervik‬ after the first trip 3 weeks ago. This place keeps surprising me! Went to a @nk_ceria problem called "Primitiv" 8A+ and probably got the first repeat(?!) as well as a flash of "Pro2" 8A and Golden Path Low" 8A/+ and a send of "Animal Act" 8A+."

Med tanke på att flera ledande bouldrare har ifrågasatt dagens grader i Västervik kan man notera att Megos under sina två resor till Västervik har bekräftat alla grader.

 
 
8C after driving 7 000 km by Tamás Zupán  (17) Facebook
 

Tamás Zupán has set a new record of dedication by doing his second 8C, Zunami in Saalachtal, driving 7 000 kilometers to reach his goal.

- I was there with my friend in the middle of March and I climbed some boulders in the lower sector and I tried Gizmo 8B, which is a variant of Zunami. I live 600 km far from Saalachtal and I could travel there only on Wednesdays because of my work. I woke up at 4:30 a.m., started my journey from home at 5 a.m. and I came in Saalachtal at 11 a.m. I climbed until 2 p.m. and I arrived at 8 p.m. I climbed ’Gizmo’ on the second trip and finally I could manage ’Zunami’ on my 6th trip.

The first move is incredible complex because in the same time you should move separately your all limbs when make the crossing movement, after it is really crimpy, overhanging and that’s why I really liked it.

 
 
Fucking far from OK 8a+ av Max Boholm  (2) Facebook
 

Max Boholm, gammal juniorlandslagsman, kan sägas vara något av en late bloomer och verkar 20 år senare som 34-åring vara i sitt livs form. Idag gjordes Fucking far from OK, 8a+ i Vikskile. Hemligheten var uppvärmning på greppbräda i 20 minuter vid halv nio på morgonen. En annan förklaring till sista halvårets peak kan vara salvan han sätter på fingertopparna - Antihydral.

Väl uppe i Vikskile så klättrades en 10 meter 6b, lammet och därefter sändes leden som Yuji Hirayama satte upp i mitten på 90-talet. Därefter testade Max Hingsten 8a+ och den bör gå snabbt.

 
 
Årets äventyrare intervjuad  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFreedom travel har intervjuat Said Belhaj i samband till att han blev utsedd till årets klättrare. Bild Terje Aamodt.

- Jag är född -81 i Mölndal utanför Göteborg. Min far är från Marocko och min mor från Finland och jag talar 6 språk flytande. Jag har klättrat i 25 år, varav 15 professionellt. Jag har också spelat musik i hela mitt liv, numer med fokus på musik från Nord- och Västafrika, och spelar med olika musiker och artister runt hela världen. Dessutom är jag fotograf.

Jag började klättra i berg i början av 90-talet för att jag älskade klättring. Jag visste inte vad bergsklättring var, kände inga klättrare, det fanns knappt någon info på den tiden osv men en näst intill besatt passion har lett mig till var jag är idag.

 
 
7C av Anja Hodann (38)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnja Hodann har gjort Tjing Tjong 7C i Orminge. Tidigare har hon gjort tre 8A och den sista 2012. 2006 var Anja #8 på Världscupen efter att en gång stått på prispallen. Sammanlagt gör detta Anja till den mest framgångsrika svenska bouldrare. Här tävlar hon på Ninja Warriors.

 
 
En av de bästa boulderdagarna någonsin för Megos i Västervik  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"What a day!!! ‪#‎västervikclimbing‬ at it's finest! Got the classics-tour with @slacker12 and managed to flash "Dillerium" 8A and "David and Goliath" 8A+ and got the first repeat of "Mechanical Bull" 8B. As well on the tick lost today were "Go all day sit" 8A, "D+P Combo" 8B, "Namaste" 8A+, "By the Book" 8A+ and "Celtic Warrior" 8A. So I had one of my best bouldering days ever!!! Psyched for more tomorrow!" (c) Daniela Ebler

 
 
8a+ av Johan Luhr (54)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJohan Luhr satte upp Stairway to Heaven på Örnberget 1996 vilket då som 8a+ var en av de svåraste lederna i Sverige. Igår gjorde han den igen som 54-åring. Målet med säsongen är att göra minst en 8b+.

"Känns mer som 8b när steget på läppen försvunnit ! 2 snäpp svårare än I´ll be back."

 
 
Megos lovordar Västervik  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"BLOWN AWAY from Swedish bouldering! Went to #västervik today and got shown around by the guidebook authors @slacker12 and Jim Wasmuth. Climbed the classics "The Hourglass" 8B and "The Office" 8A this afternoon. Picture is from the combination "Night Shift" 8A+. Can't wait to go out again tomorrow!!!" (c) Daniela Ebler

 
 
8b igen av Stefan Wulf (45)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Wulf är på en tre veckors trip till Siurana som har startat bra med en 8b, Tres Tristes Triceps.

- Planen var att testa en 8c. Men det blev istället en led som jag spanat in på en tidigare resa. Ca 40m lång med ett för min del extremt hårt bouldercrux i mitten. Trodde den skulle gå ner fortare men fick kämpa 4 dagar för att ta mig förbi sista cruxflyttet. Nu bara några dagar kvar på resan med att beta av några st fina 8a'n

 
 
7C av Daniela Ebler  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniela Ebler berättar om sin första 7C på Instagram,

"Sunes Sommar Assis, 7c.
Checked this problem out about 2-3 years ago, came back yesterday and wanted to give the stand start a go. Did it first try, so decided to try the sit start. And what do you know, that also worked on the first go! My first 7c!

 
 
8b onsight by Laura Rogora (14) and one more today  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who just did her first 9a, has onsighted Batuka 8b in Margalef and she put up all the draws by herself. Batuka has been recorded 57 times in the data base, all with 8b and only two guys have onsighted it before.

- The route is divided in two sections with a very good rest in the middle. The first four bolt are hard and I thought to fall every move. The second part is easier but there is another hard move. Today was the first day of the trip. In this week I would like to visit new crags: Santa Linya, Rodellar...

Today the 14-year-old onsighted Codigo Norte, an 8b in Santa Linya. "I'm staying here just for one week so I think I will climb only onsight."

 
 
Bouldervärldscupen startar utan svenskar  (2) Facebook
 

Boulderväldscupen startar till helgen i Schweiz och på anmälningslistan finns det 142 deltagare från 30 länder men inga svenskar. Förbundskaptenen Reino Horak förklarar att visst intresse finns men det är svårt för de aktiva då det inte finns några nationella svenska tävlingar att träna på.

Om två veckor avgörs NM i Bouldering i Danmark, dit ett dussintal svenskar inkl juniorer har anmält intresse. Förhoppningsvis får vi svenska framgångar och några som blir peppade på att tävla internationellt. Annars är dock planen att ett par juniorer ska pröva lyckan på en Bouldervärldscup i sommar säger Horak.

 
 
8a av Olof Morsing och Marcus Gillberg  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing har varit på Kvibergs KK årliga vårresa till Margalef och passade på att göra sina första två 8a; Dr Feelgood and Transilvania. Vidare sattes de två första 7c onsighten så den hårda vinterträningen har burit frukt. Första tävlingen går på lördag i Eskilstuna och sen i maj så blir det först J-SM och sedan Europacupen i Imst. På bilden även Marcus Gillberg som även han fick ihop en 8a och både tillhör J-landslagets träningsgrupp. Olof komenterar.

- Transilvania jobbade vi på en eftermiddag sen sände jag och Marcus den på morgonen dagen efter. Dr Feelgood hängde jag igenom två gånger sen klättrade jag den. Leden passade nog mig väldigt bra. Målet I år är främst att det ska gå bra i Europa cupen, men det skall nog hinnas klättras ute en del i sommar också.

 
 
Anak Verhoeven (19) makes the FA of Ma belle ma muse 9a  (1) Facebook
 

Anak Verhoeven, who was #4 in the Lead World Cup last year, has done her second 9a, the FA of Me belle ma muse in Romeyer.



Just later, it was repeated by Jean-Elie Crestin-Billet and here is his video. Jean-Elie actually called it an 8c+/9a.

 
 
Kajsa Rosén (18) - A new star in the making  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKajsa Rosén, who did her first 8c and flashed an 8b+ last week, has done Mind Control 8c (+) and onsighted T-1 Full Equipe in Oliana. There is only a handful of female who have onsighted at this level before. "What to do next? Still suprising myself here in Oliana."

Last year, the 18-year-old was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

Loic Timmermans, who is still ahead of Kajsa with one 9a, reachead out to 8a with a nice reflection.

"Kasja is crushing all the routes she's trying like nothing. I was even more impressed when she told me she did Mind control without getting pumped. I think she has a good attitude to. Not taking things too seriously, just climbing and see what happens.

 
 
Two 8c (+) OS and a 9a+/b by Adam Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has had a great weekend. First he did the FA of Vicious Circle 9a+/b in Osp/Misja Pec, which he bolted last year. (c) Luka Fonda

"Left start into Sanski par. Bouldery and short 8c+ into the most of the Sanski par 9a (without first six moves). I would say two 8c+'s with a bad rest in between. Super powerful and resistant climbing.

The next stop was Medveja, a new secret zone in Croatia. It was one of the best days of climbing ever as I onsighted two 8c's ('The Core' is considered 8c+ by those few, who repeated the route) and the first ascent of 'More', 9a. World record maybe? Haha.

Most of the routes are slightly overhanging, crimpy on super solid rock with a minimum of Sika and in general fitting my style pretty well.

The last day I tried a project in Pandora, a different zone in Istria, which is definitely pretty hard in the region of 9b or more. Something like 20m of bouldering in the roof. Definitely a lot of rock around there worth returning for."

 
 
8B (+) flash by James Webb again  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has traveled to Finland to take part in Sisu Masters with an amazing line up including Daniel Woods and Dave Graham but also to try Nalle Hukkataival's Boulders. First they had to crush some ice on the top of the Globalist in Sipoo and then James just flashed it and gave it a personal grade of 8B. The best flash boulderer in the world has now flashed 13 8B Boulders, four out of which were originally graded 8B+. (c) Nico Backström

"Absolutely incredible boulder from Nalle that I've wanted to climb on for so long. Perfect rock, amazing movement. One of the best!"

Next up could be Hukkataival's famous Sisu or Lappnor Project that the Fin has been trying for six respectively four years speculating that it could become the next level.

 
 
8b+ flash and a 8c by Kajsa Rosén (18)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSimon Carter, a professional climbing photographer for 25 years, reports on Facebook:

"I've seen a lot of really impressive climbing over all the time I've spent at Oliana over the years... and add to that today's jaw-dropping sends by 18 year-old Swedish climber Kajsa Rosen. First up she hiked Fisheye (8c) first shot (after only working it twice yesterday), for her first of the grade, and THEN casually flashed Los Humildes pa Casa (8b+) soon after (pictured). Kajsa Rosen; a name to watch out for for sure!"

Simon is spot-on as the young Swede has had an extreme development over the last few years. In the past year, she was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

So how much beta did you get and do you still plan to get yourself a station wagon and hit the road?
I saw a french guy climbing it and he told me about a knee bar. I heard some screaming from below but it was very windy. My plan is to do some comps and some rock climbing and have fun. I graduate this year so hopefully I will have some more time for climbing.

 
 
Erik Grandelius gör 12 boulders 8A och hårdare  Facebook
 

Erik Grandelius har varit på roadtrip i en månad med Benjamin "Tumle" Linne Ryn och gjort 12 boulders 8A och hårdare inklusive Amber i Brione som han gav en personlig grad på 8A+. Dessutom flashade han Kirk Windstein i Cresciano som han graderade till 8A.

"Det flesta problemen gick ner rätt snabbt. Jag har inte kunnat bouldra ordentligt senaste två åren pga en fingerskada, men nu är det bra. Vi hade även ca 1 meter snö när vi kom till Brione, så vi klättrade på det som var torrt. Det var även kul att göra c'etait demain i fontan, världens första 8A, video.

Alltid kul att klättra med Tumle, vi är på samma nivå men har olika styrkor och svagheter. Tumle flashade Cellar Door 8A.

 
 
8C by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (21) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureReel Rock Film Tour comes with the amazing news that Ashima Shiraishi has made the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's spectacular Horizon 8C, in Hiei, Japan. The 14-year-old worked on the 30 move long roof problem in December and now she has done it on her third day, which means she is the first female and the youngest climber ever to have reached 8C. Here you can find Dai's comment on his FA including a picture where you see that it is almost a horizontal roof.

- "No doubt the Super Project was the hardest problem I’'ve ever done and that probably means it’s a V16 (8C+). However, I’'m not quite sure because I don’t have enough references to compare with. I would be able to fully understand what V15 (8C) is like exactly if I did more than fifty or so of them, but my accomplishments don’t even come close to that."

Based on Ashima's Route and Boulder ticklist, she has been the world's best female rock climber since she was 12 years old. Among the male, she is currently in the Top-20 including also having done two 9a's last autumn. How many 14-year-old girls are able to compete with the best male in any sport? (c) Brett Lowell

 
 
Janvid och Duncan vinner 100 %  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture100 % på Klätterverket samlade 50 deltagare och här är prispallen. På bilden Björn Alber.

1. Vincent Janvid - Freja Duncan
2. Per Holm - Eugenia Bolander
3. Viktor Elofsson - Linda Hammarström
Kompletta resultat

 
 
8C by Ryuichi Murai incl amazing 240 spin  (3) Facebook
 

Ryuichi Murai , who two weeks ago did two 8B+, has done Dai Koyamada's Babel 8C in Shiobara. "This problem links Catharsis(8B+) to Hydra(8B) via Uma(8B+). About 30 moves that include various moves made me enjoy myself."

Totally amazing! Watch that mind-boggling sequence where the 167 cm tall spins 240 degrees with his foot. How is it even possible to find such solution :)

 
 
8a (7c+) onsight av Axel Hultqvist  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAxel Hultqvist är på klättersemester på Sardinen och har onsightat Wonderland i Isili som han ger en personlig 7c+ grad. (c) Johan Ragnarsson

"Isili var ett riktigt grymt ställe, bra klättring och bra mat men inte mycket mer. Fick tre klätterdagar där och nu har vi kommit till Cala gonone. Isili är ett resmål jag definitivt kommer komma tillbaka till överhängande klättring på bra grepp, lite inomhuskänsla. Krävs att man har kört några laps på kedväggarna innan man åker hit.

Onsightpresset gick bra men blev sjukt pumpad, sista presset för dagen. Hade åkt av en 7c+ onsight på förmiddagen på grund av lite fuktigt grepp från regnet under natten och sedan hade jag kört lite andra leder innan vi gick tillbaka och jag fick slita mig upp för leden.

 
 
Stella och Axel vinner #2 GBG Bouldercup  Facebook
 

Stella Plantin och Axel Hulqvist vann den andra deltävlingen i Göteborgs Bouldercup som avgjordes i lördags på Klätterlabbet. Magnus Högström onsightade även han alla problem med blev placerad två pga sämre kvalresultat. Sista deltävlingen på Klätterdomen går den 18 mars och sedan gör de 8 bästa i varje klass gör upp i finalen på Klätterfabriken den 8 april. Kompletta resultat

 
 
Laura Rogora (14) does her first 9a  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora has become the first Italian female to do a 9a by Grandi Gesti in Sperlonga, which is a 20 meter long roof link up. Last year the 14-year-old won both Lead and Boulder Italian Championships and to make the story even more amazing, she mainly just trains in a Bouldering gym. She is #1 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Stefano Michelin/UP-Climbing

- It took me about 15-20 tries in one month and half. I went to Sperlonga seven times. I didn't do a specific training for this route because my purpose is training for competition. Now I need going to train hard for competition especially for the world youth championship in China in November. Surely I will continue to climb on the rock. I planned a trip to Spain in April I think I will climb on sight.

 
 
Träning, Tävling och Sabbatsår för Hannes  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHannes Puman (18), Sveriges bäste manlige tävlingsklättrare de sista åren, kommenterar sin sista 8A+, Optimal på Graveyard-blocken alldeles utanför Eskilstuna.

Berätta lite om din nya 8A+ FA. Får du ens köra så hårt enligt Nickis träningsprogram och hur lång tid tog det och vad är det för område?

- Jag kör grundträning, men i den så är det mycket styrka så det känns ganska bra att bouldra. Jag var där 3 gånger och körde men första gången så borstade jag typ bara. Det tar ungefär 10 min att åka från stan och det finns relativt många block där, annars brukar det bara vara några enstaka block här och där runt Eskilstuna.

Vad har du för planer 2016?
Tar studenten i år så första halvåret blir det hård träning och tävling...sen hoppas jag främst på att bara resa runt och klättra i ett år :)

 
 
Mowgli repeats his 8B+ (C) twice after just a short warm up  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCharles Albert, who did the FA of the L'Alchimiste left exit last week, considered to be harder than the 8C right exit, did it today twice. (c) Neil Hart did get it on video both times.

"He is so strong he made it look like a 6A. I picked him up at one o'clock and we did a very quick 7B that took two tries and we drove to the L'alchimiste. He just pulled on and fell three times on the crux then sent it, then climbed it again so we could get another angle.

It is easier for him bare foot because he can hook his toes into the side pulls better. Definitely a new level!"

 
 
Women are catching up in the Santa Linya caves  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSome ten years ago, several men - notably Dani Andrada, Patxi Usobiaga and Chris Sharma - broke through to the next grading level establishing several 9a's and 9a+'s in Santa Linya. As of 2016, however, it seems that progress has become stagnant with Chris Sharma's two 9b FAs representing the highest attainable level.

Women, in the mean time, have caught up, in 2010 Angela Eiter did the first female 8c in Santa Linya. Quickly thereafter other women have followed suit with ten other females having completed climbs ranging from 8c to 9a(+) over the last two years. Complete stats. In this great picture captured by Luka Fonda, Janja Garnbret (16) flashes La Fabelita 8c.

If the trend continues, it is only a matter of time before women are on par with men in Santa Linya. While impossible to know for certain, one of the reasons behind such phenomenal progress for women may lie in the nature of the climbing in the cave where technical skill and endurance are of vital importance. That, and the fact that these ten women - and the many who will follow - are testaments of climbing strength and power.

 
 
Charles Albert interview  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic Climbing has made an interview with Charles Albert, who did an 8C yesterday, giving it a personal grade of 8B+. The interesting fact is that the 18-year-old seldom trains indoor and the only training he does beside Bouldering is stretching. (c) Neil Hart

"Yesterday I was climbing alone without pads and luckily I met Kevin Thibaut and Mounir (strong but low profile Font locals) who were trying it. I joined them and I managed to send it on my first real session trying the left version. Regarding the grade, I would say for me it’s not harder than “Gecko assis”, the 8B+ I did barefoot last year… I also tried the sit start of “Alchimiste” which adds an easy but beautiful move but doesn’t change the difficulty. I have not done the sit-start version but will come back and try sending the whole thing because it makes the line even more beautiful !"

 
 
"A 14-year-old girl redefines rock climbing"  (6) Facebook
 

BBC has made an interview with Ashima Shiraishi, where, among other things, she says her goal is to break records held by her male counterparts. The 14-year-old claims to be the only female to have done a 9a+ (Direct open your mind R1 in Santa Linya) and the youngest person to have reached that grade.

It should be noticed that the route was originally a 9a until some holds broke and it was speculated that it might be a 9a+. Later Edu Marin repeated it saying it is still a 9a. The first woman to claim having done a 9a+ route was Josune Bereziartu (route: Bimbaluna), which has been subject of being downgraded.

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