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Cheerleader 8B+ by Israel Olcina (43)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsrael Olcina (43) has done the second accent of Beto Rocasolano's Cheerleader 8B+ in Castillo de Bayuela, Spain. It is his second 8B+. Israel is a respected climber having been one of the first Spanish climbers to climb 8A in the late 90's. © Inés Tostado

"How has been the process on Cheerleader?
I had seen it when Beto did it in march. I was amazed with the line and I couldn't get it out my mind back then. I stopped trying it at the end of the season and without the first move due to a index injury and I back to it end of november. The problem climbs an overhang to a roof and the section is a 7-8 moves where the first three are the hardest.

 
 
Daily Training Plans through the VL App  Facebook
 

In the Vertical-Life training App you can choose from 10 different "daily plans". Once you have entered your your gym and level, as well as type of focus on your training, the App will direct you to do specific routes and boulders in the Vertical-Life connected gyms. Here you can invite your gym. It also tells you when to rest and after the session you will report back and say how tired you were and the system will adjust until your next session.

In the future, you will be able to create longer training plans with a focus on a certain ambition during your next trip etc.

 
 
Female climber of 2018?  (3) Facebook
 


 
 
Male climber of 2018?  Facebook
 


 
 
Three 8a's by Cathy Wagner (53)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has added another three 8a's to her ticklist out of which one in Virignin and two in Blavet. This means that the 53 year old has done 64 routes 8a to 8b in 2018. In total, Cathy has done 699 routes 8a to 8b which just might be most in the world among the female.

 
 
Kintsugi 8C by Keenan Takahashi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKeenan Takahashi reports on Insta that he has done Nalle Hukkataival's Kintsugi 8C in Red Rocks.

"Possibly the best boulder I’ve ever done... exhilarated, adrenalized, and psyched beyond belief!!!" (c) Killa Kev

This was Mr "Ario's" second 8C in 2018 when he also has done 5 8B+ and 16 8B's out of which two flashes.

 
 
Three 8c+ by David Firnenburg  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenburg, #3 in the Combined World Championship in 2016, has done three 8c+; La ley innata and Llamps i trons in Margalef and Jungle Speed in Siurana. "Escaping the wetness in Margalef. Some years ago I couldn't even do the gaston move. Today less than 2 hours (5 tries). Ascend with head lamp in the darkness. 8c+ for me although a hold broke (as far as I know)."

"My thoughts on my Olympic ambition: Well, I want to qualify for the Games in 2020 and I specifically train the combined format for it. Next year 2019 is going to be a tough season of selection. Only the best athletes and the ones who can perform at the right time in comps will make it. I am confident of myself that I have the mental and physical strengths and abilities to make it to Tokyo. I am a good allrounder, never specialized on one certain discipline in the past. I commit to hard gym training this winter with a well balanced mix of rock climbing besides as well to be well prepared for the first World Cups in April/May 2019.

Though, the biggest focus is on the World Champs in Toyko because that's the first chance to get the ticket to the Games in Toyko. If you already make it there you won't have the pressure throughout the whole season and can better and earlier focus on your trainings for the "real" games in 2020. I am curious how next season will go for me and how I'll handle the stresses and strains of a very packed schedule. I put all in and give my best. That's all I can do. And in the end I have a clear result if it was enough or not. Overall I see it as a great challenge and an occasion to get better in my personal climbing. And that's the most important thing for me. 2019 is going to be exciting!"

 
 
More rock climbers needed to save the planet  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOutdoor climbing has a very small impact on the environment in comparison to other sports where you almost always need to build and maintain an arena. Bouldering and DWS are quite unique and fulfills best the Tyroldeclaration, "We strive to leave no trace". Trad climbers leave environmental trace due to all cams and nuts needed meanwhile sport climbers need less gear but bolts.

Moving out people from practicing sports indoor into rock climbing outdoors will in the long run mean less impact on the environment, as less arenas are constructed and required.

Getting exposed to the outdoor makes it possibly the former arena sport-persons will develop into ambassadors for the planet's nature. They might also personally reduce their environmental impact and possibly adapt to the low budget/less impact outdoor climber style.

By strengthen the local community, which in reality means that more boulders and routes graded 3 - 5 should be developed, the number of rock climbers will increase. More climbs in your neighborhood will also mean travelling will be reduced.

Disclaimer - Surely, more climbers could to some extent have a negative impact for the local climbing community in regards respectful behavior and access etc. However, in regards saving the planet, each arena person we could get out in the nature becoming an eco-ambassador the better on a global perspective.

The Access Fund is working hard and just published - Climbing Areas Loved to Death and clearly this has a lot to do with access education. We do all need to interact on the scene...not just posting negative comments in forums.

 
 
Atonement 8c by Babsi Zangerl  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBabsi Zangerl reports on Insta that she has done Jonathan Siegrist's Atonement 8c in VRG in just five tries. (c) Andy Earl The next plan is skiing and training back home in the Alpes together with her partner Jacopo Larcher who's hardest tick in USA was Necessary Evil 8c+.

Our main goal was to climb on the Nose but winter came in too early....so we moved east too VRG....we climbed there for about 10 days....a lot of cool routes from easy to hard...maybe one of the best limestone areas in the US ... The climbing is perfect there, but I wished there wouldn't be the highway right next to it which is pretty annoying.”

 
 
Pure Dreaming by Reffo Silvio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureReffo Silvio, who previoulsy has done two 9a+ has done his 12th 9a, Pure Dreaming in Arco. " I have tried the route just few times in the last three months because of the bad weather. Today, after a very fast warm up, I have quickly send Pure Dreaming. My first 9a like a father!!! I hope for more hard routes in the next months!!"

 
 
Almost everyone thinks they have great technique  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFor the third time, we have run the Poll, "What skill do you lack the most?". As for the 2013, 2015 and 2018 poll, only some 8 % pick Technique. In practice, the results have been more or less the same, beside the 2015 poll, where Finger strength got 31 %, instead of 26 % in both 2013 and 2018. Further more, Flexibility have increased in importance during the three polls and is now ranked #3.

As Flexibility is kind of easy to improve and is something you can train back home, this increase is kind of strange. Possibly it relates to the frequently published pics of celebs like Adam Ondra in extreme positions. One of his trainers Klaus Isele has previously on 8a said;

"What I still monitor is that some climbers believe that it is enough to stretch for 40 seconds in order to get “longer” = forget it. You need to hold a stretching position for two minutes (I often recommend three times the same position with that holding time). That works! To really gain length you have to repeat it every day. Your results will be visible after approximately 14 days."

 
 
Bone Tomahawk 9a (+) by Ben Spannuth and Matty Hong  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureMatty Hong and Ben Spannuth have done the third and fourth ascent of Joe Kinder's Bone Tomahawk in Fynn Cave both suggesting a personal grade of 9a. First Matty did it, (c) Jon Cardwell and a couple later Matty was shooting pictures of Ben doing it.

 
 
Fortunadrago 8B by Giorgia Tesio (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGiorgia Tesio, who just won the Italian Bouldering Championship, reports on Insta that she has done her first 8B, Fortunadrago in Varazze.

The 18 year old did her first 8a six years ago and it was actually a flash. Later she has been an active competition climbers having won three Euro Championships.

"I don’t exactly know how it was possible to top it in a day and an half of tries: when I tried it for the first time it seemed quite impossible for me, until I found out a new beta which fit perfectly for me: using the heel hooks in both of the two hard sections makes it less about strength and allows me to stick the hard move every time.

So the second day I knew I could do it, and I was so excited and anxious that I almost missed the opportunity to get my first 8b done, but fortunately I had my friends there to support me!

It seems that every in the last two years I ends my projects faster than before, such as it happened for Hyena, this means that I have to try something harder! So in 2019 I’ll look for new projects on rock, maybe near home so I can try them even during comp season; but next year is very important for me because it is my last year in young competitions! So I’ll try my best for making this year memorable, challenging my self in World Cup as well." (c) Fabio Fin

 
 
Interview to Pol Roca about La Teoría del Todo 8C (8B+) and an 8C FA  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSpanish Pol Roca has done La Teoría del Todo in Albarracín suggesting a personal grade of 8B+. The boulder was put up by Beto Rocasolano as an 8C+ and Rubén Díaz repeated it suggesting it as 8C. Last week Pol also put up Boulder Blaster 8C FA in La Comarca. (c) Francis Guillén

It is your first 8C, how many sessions on it? Can you compare with others?
Yes, it is my first 8C. I found it two years ago but I didn't try it in 7 months due to an injury. It took me around 30-40 days. I can compare it with others 8B+ FA that I've done and Boulder Blaster is harder... but I think it's really hard to compare with others because the style is really hard to find.

Do you think it could be one of the hardest problems in Spain?
I don't think so cause it hasn't many moves but it is pure strength and without doubt is the hardest move I've ever tried.

Which is your next goal?
I have some problems to try and I can't say one specifically but there's one in La Comarca, not very aesthetic line but easy to see. Is the link up of an 8 moves 8B and an 8 moves 8B+. That will be the next hard line in La Comarca .

 
 
David Lama makes solo FA of 6 907 m Lunag Ri  Facebook
 

 
 
Bone Tomahawk 9a (+) by Ben Spannuth and Matty Hong  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatty Hong and Ben Spannuth have done the third and fourth ascent of Joe Kinder's Bone Tomahawk in Fynn Cave both suggesting a personal grade of 9a. First Matty did it, (c) Jon Cardwell and a couple later Matty was shooting pictures of Ben doing it.

This is how Kinder describes his route, "Crux in the beginning, very resistant with bizarre to-hooks and roof tricks. Then very continuous, muscly, and athletic. It’s not so finger intensive as it is full body intensive. It’s like being in the boxing ring and fighting to the end of utter fatigue.

Then there is an extension. I’ve done all moves and believe it’s an additional 9 bolts of 8c+. It will be significantly difficult. No rests after the glory jug on Bone T. Seems loco to me but has me very excited to see what my old ass can do on it. I’m heading down there tomorrow to try a bit. So excited."

 
 
Kids comps should be focus on challenges instead of competitiveness  Facebook
 

Kids sports are becoming less competitive in Sweden. You are not supposed to say who won a tournament in football or say who won the league before they are around 11 years. Instead it is all about including and let everyone "compete" in as many matches etc as possible. Further more, parents and even coaches are not supposed to interfere shouting out tactical instructions. It is believed that a focus on playing rather than being competitive is better for the kids even in team sports.

Climbing being an individual sports, clearly the winning and failure focus could create even more negative pressure. Further more, coaches and parents instructing the kids in a too detailed way replace the fun playing challenge focus, with only aiming for winning. Possibly we should set up competition formats without finals or with finals for everyone. As it stands, often the gyms just copy the IFSC format and just let the Top-6, or so, 10 year old's challenge themselves in the final with great exposure.

Sure many young kids like and can deal with the pressure in a competition but what is not fair is that if you are not among the best, you are not allowed to challenge yourself on all climbs.

 
 
The Big Island 8C by Nico Pelorson  Facebook
 

 
 
Gyms should grade also 6-8 m routes  Facebook
 

One big downside with climbing the 12 - 18 m long gym routes, slightly progressively harder, is that most of us get so pumped that we need to rest at least 15 min. In other words, you seldom climb more than 100 m during your normal session.

If you instead would divide your training on 6 - 8 m routes you would only need to rest a couple min in between and you could end up with double as much training. Further more, such training could be defined as power-endurance training which normally is the strength we are all looking for outdoors.

Surely, it is just up to you and me to stop midways up the route but it is not so easy to be the first to implement such training in the gym. In general, it is the hardest routes in the gym that gets the less traffic but possibly the 7c might just be 7a up to 7 meters etc.

From the kids and the beginners perspective, it is just very natural that before you start climbing the 12 m routes, you progress meter by meter.

 
 
Ondra Vlog #8 onsight attempt on To bolt or not to be 8b+  Facebook
 

 
 
Living Legend Neil Gresham  Facebook
 

 
 
Three 8c+ by Stefano Carnati  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Carnati, who did Biographie 9a+ this autumn, has had eight very productive days doing three 8c+. First the FA of Vortex in Gajum which he has tried for few days during the last four years, see picture. More info on his Insta.

Then he traveled to Spain and did A Muerte in Siurana and La Ley Innata in Margalef. "Nemesis is over!! 3AM alarm clock made its work! Spent several days last year and it drove me crazy. Today sent straight after a warm-up go."

 
 
Adam Ondra America roadtrip Vlog #7  Facebook
 

 
 
Stefano Ghisolfi 9b+ and Olympic interview  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn between day #8 and day #30, Stefano Ghisolfi did not see any physical progress on Perfecto Mundo 9b+ in Margalef as he kept falling on the same move.

"I just felt a slow progress on sensations and feelings on the route. I improved on the first part to make it perfect. I did visualization when I was home and try to reproduce the feelings. I trained my legs too because in the rest before the hard section I had to push with my left leg to stay in the position. The process has been very complicated and frustrating, during this year I had a lot of emotions, motivation and sometimes I thought to give up, but I never did. "

Stefano won the Italian Speed Championship in 2010 with 7.96 so he has actually not started any Speed training yet. He has deliberately postponed it in order to reduce the months with almost only focusing on indoor training prior to Tokyo 2020.

"My plan was to stay in Spain for a month until end of December, bit I did the route at the second day of the trip, so now I have one more month to train. Now I can focus on Olympics 100%. I will continue with some rock project but closer to home, while I can train boulder and speed. Living in Arco will help my outdoor climbing. But maybe not big projects before the Olympics. During 2019, I will do all Lead WCs and maybe 3 or 4 bouldering and Speed WCs."

 
 
Female Best Bouldering Ticklist  Facebook
 

Here is a draft of which female have the most impressive bouldering tick list. Please comment to add names or change the ranking.

1. Alex Puccio USA
2. Ashima Shiraishi USA
3. Isabelle Faus USA
4. Anna Stöhr AUT
5. Karoline Sinnhuber AUT

6. Oriane Bertone FRA
7. Megan Mascarenas USA
8. Shauna Coxsey GBR
9. Alizee Dufraisse FRA
0. Nina Williams USA
Mile Heyden GER

 
 
Three 8A+ by Michaela Kiersch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaela Kiersch has had a great trip to Hueco Tanks where she quickly did three 8A+; Rumble in the jungle, Tequila Sunrise and Phantom Limb (c) Brandon Fox - The Foxes Photography In the Combined ranking game, Michaela is #1 among the female and #13 among the male.

"I went into this trip with no objectives other than to have fun and enjoy my climbing. The weather has been perfect and I’ve been with amazing friends. Couldn’t have been a better trip! Usually I do have plans, but this trip was more for my mental health and enjoyment than for sending super hard projects. My plan for the winter is to train, get stronger, and enjoy the holidays with my family. 2019 is still open ended for me, I really need to start thinking of some good new year resolutions."

 
 
4 Days in the Darkness-Hülloch  Facebook
 

 
 
Hypothèse assis 8C+ FA by Charles Albert barefoot  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCharles Albert, the famous Font barefoot boulderer, has made the FA of yet another 8C+, Hypothèse assis. It adds two moves to the 7C+ stand start. "It’s just another hard boulder, it’s not very beautiful and it’s chipped. I did it because it was dry. It took me three quick sessions and a long one. I don’t think it’s easier or harder with shoes the next project is another hard boulder.”

Charles climbs barefoot and he has established and repeated several 8C's and done the Fa of La Revolutionnaire 8C+. The pic by Neil Hart is from an 8B+ in Font.

 
 
9a+/b FA by Seb Bouin  Facebook
 

 
 
Perfecto Mundo 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi, #2 in the Lead World Cup the last two years, reports on his Insta that he has repeated Alex Megos Perfecto Mundo 9b+ in Margalef which originally Chris Sharma bolted. (c) Javi Pec

"I spent 32 days here at the crag, falling many times at the same move, but this time I grabbed for the first time that pinch and it felt unreal..."

 
 
Terre de sienne 8B by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done Fred Nicole's Terre de Sienne 8B in Hueco Tanks. "hard dead point.. was trying the bump method for the first couple days... then started trying to go straight up to it and did it that sesh, didn't split any tips!!"

Originally it was given 8C, but then Dave Graham came and called it 8B/+. Some continued to grade it 8B+ but now it seems the consensus is 8B. Isabelle, who often gives personal downgrades, has recorded 16 8B's and two 8B+, making her tick list one of the most impressive by a female. In the 8A ranking game, Isabelle is #1.

 
 
Female most impressive sport climbing tick list  (2) Facebook
 

Here is a draft of which female have the most impressive sport climbing tick list. Please comment to add names or change the ranking.

1. Margo Hayes USA
2. Angy Eiter AUT
3. Anak Verhoeven BEL
4. Josune Bereziartu ESP
5. Julia Chanourdie FRA

6. Ashima Shiraishi USA
7. Allizée Dufraisse FRA
8. Charlotte Durif FRA
9. Janja Garnbret SLO
0. Michaela Kiersch USA, Laura Rogora ITA, Mar Alvararez, Janja Garnbret, Muriel Sarkany, Barbara Zangerl, Plorence Pinet, Katherine Choong

 
 
Hips Don't lie 8B+ by Lindinger  Facebook
 

 
 
Bleau's story 48 min in French  Facebook
 

 
 
Southern Smoke 8c+ by Margo Hayes  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes reports on her Insta that she one month ago did Southern Smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. During the same trip the 20 year old did Golden Ticket 8c+ and probably some more great routes. (c) Jan Novak

I had a wonderful time visiting The Red for the first time in a while! I met up with friends from France and was able to spend some time climbing with my dad. He’s always my favorite partner. I wanted to try a some classics and some routes that looked intriguing to me. I climbed the Golden Ticket and Southern Smoke in 5 tries each.”

Including the two 9a+ classics from last year as well as a 9a and other 8c+', Margo must be a contender for having the most impressive ticklist in the world. The only two girls that challenges her are Angy Eiter and Anak Verhoeven.

 
 
9a FA by Thomas Dauser in Ulassai  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThomas Dauser has done his third 9a through the FA of Il gusto della liberta in Ulassai. (c) Klaas Willems

"So happy!! It was a long way to the top of this dream line. In total, split over two stays, I spent around 10 days working on it, checking out the moves, making link-ups, and finally sending it in perfect evening conditions. I did my first 8c now already 5 years ago and then my first 9a one year ago. My main focus is on climbing outdoors, a lot in Frankenjura. But the last few years I did more specific training as well.

 
 
Practical breathing tips  Facebook
 

There are several ways on how breathing can improve your climbing and here are some examples. You should try it out or even take some Yoga breathing lessons in order to best use your breathing while climbing.

1. Breath before you set of = Increase focus and concentration
2. Less nervous by thinking of how you breath
3. Get more alert/stronger by hyper ventilation (fast breathing)
4. Improved resting by slow, long and deep breathing
5. A focus on breathing will make you more relaxed while climbing

Just close your eyes and focus on breathing and notice what happens in your body and soul and you are half way there.

 
 
Kai Lightner aiming for Tokyo 2020  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Leonidio third most popular in 2018  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDuring the last 12 months, 7 298 ascents have been recorded in Leonido making it the third most zlagged in the world after Frankenjura and Kalymnos. Actually, 50 % of the total recorded ascents in Leonidio have beed added just the last year. Kind of remarkable that it is more popular than Rodellar, Arco and Railay Beach together. The second most trendy crag to visit is Kyparissi like 1.5 hour south of Leonidio.

The good news is that both these crags situated like 3 hours south of Athens are climbable also during the winter. Here you can buy the guide-book which also comes in an App.

 
 
La Sportiva Legends  Facebook
 

 
 
Sharma's routes are the greatest  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLooking in the 8a database trying to identify who has made the FAs of the most popular and highest ranked hard core routes, Chris Sharma sticks out.

2.8 Papichulo 9a+ in Oliana
2.2 Mind Control 8c (8c+) in Oliana
2.1 Era Vella 9a (8c+) in Margalef
2.0 Biographie 9a+ in Céüse

In fact, almost all Chris hardest routes have later been hailed and recommended. Here are some examples of some with few repeats;
First round first minute 9b, El Bon Combat 9a+ (9b/+), Fight or Flight 9b, Es Pontas 9b . (c) Chris Insta with 455 000 followers.

 
 
Fabelita 8c by Molly Thompson Smith  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMolly Thompson Smith, #7 in the Lead WC 2017 and #11 in the World Championship, has been on a climbing trip in Spain together with Jan Hojer. In Siurana she did Kale Borraka 8b+ and in Santa Linya she did Fabelita 8c. Jan's best was Open Your Mind 8c+ in Santa Linya.

So how come so few comps this year and what is the 2019 and Olympic plan?
I ruptured 3 pulleys in my ring finger at the end of Dec last year and had to have surgery in the New Year. Took me a while to get back to climbing, and especially at a decent level so wasn't able to do any comps until World Champs. Next year I plan to do all the lead WCs and some bouldering ones.

I'll try for the Olympics, hopefully I can enter all the events I need to next year but we don't know what the selection criteria is yet and I've got a lot of catching up to do anyways!

 
 
Larcher and Zangerl doing 1 300 m 8a+ on Eiger's north face  Facebook
 

 
 
El Bon Combat 9a+ (9b/+) by Jakob Schubert  (18) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Insta that he has done the second ascent of Chris Sharma's El Bon Combat in Cova de l'ocell giving it a personal grade of hard 9a+.

"I know it's easy to not think about it and just take the grade of the first ascensionist which in this case is 9b/+ but I feel the responsibility to have more thoughts about it. For me it felt easier from the first day I tried it and I would guess it is a hard 9a+. Curious what others will think."

Jakob has been one of the leading competition climbers in the World the last ten years and this year he was the Lead as well as the Combined World Champion, beside winning the Lead World Cup. The 27 year old Austrian has previuosly done three 9b's, seven 9a+' and two 8C boulders.

El Bon Combat is located just 40 min oustide Barcelona and it was bolted by Martí Iglesias Galobart. It is 25 meters and the really spectacular route is made up by a mixture of sand stone and conglomerate. The difficulty is based on several 8A Boulder problems connected with poor rests. (c) Javi Pec

 
 
Lack of hardcore onsights and flashes  Facebook
 

During the last years, we have seen a great progress when it comes to redpoint grades for both male, female, youngsters and oldies. Strangely enough, when it comes to route onsights it seems the level is decreasing beside Adam Ondra. Nowadays, it is very seldom we hear about 8c's respectively 8a+' being onsighted by male and female. In comparison, Ondra has done 84 onsights 8c and harder.

In bouldering, we saw some progress up to 8B and even 8B+ some years ago but last year, almost none did flash an 8B. Kind of strange as there exist videos of most of the hard 8B out there and also that there are many more to choose from compared to five years ago. Among the male, James Webb sticks out with 19 8B boulders flash.

When the 8a scorecard was set up in 2000, we choose to award onsights very high in order to motivate more onsights. Maybe it is time to increase the bonus and also report more high class onsight? Remember that it might not be a coincidence that Adam Ondra had a focus on onsights being a teenager. In general, many coaches and trainers say that it is better to build a wide onsight pyramid instead of just redpointing a personal best.

 
 
Honnold's 1 000 m solo from the filming crew perspective  Facebook
 

 
 
Growth plate fractures at risk for the advanced kids  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOver the years, doctor and coaches have warned for an increased number of growth plate fractures and 8a has often informed about the problem. Here is a Eric Hörst article from 2017 and here is one by Volker and Isabelle Schöffl from this spring.

Sadly and very unfortunate we have just lately heard many more stories preventing some advanced kids to stop climbing. The fracture often appears during the year of the highest growth velocity for the youngsters focusing to much on power in the gym. It seems most coaches are aware of the problem but this seems not to be the case for the parents and kids.

Two coaches have recently reached out to 8a asking us to write another warning article as they see an increase risk for more fractures that actually could mean the kids are forced to totally stop climbing.

Campus board and repeativey working on the same bouldering moves are the worst thing. In fact, all type of intensive finger training should be avoided during the year when the youngster grow the most. Remember that Adam Ondra being a teenager his focus was onsight, technic and endurance.

 
 
Amazing video of Ondra high up on The Salathe Wall  (12) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra during the end of his onsight attempt of The Salathe Wall in Yosemite, where he fell on an 8a+ trad pitch.

 
 
Pure Imagination 8c+ by Matilda Söderlund  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund reports on Insta that she has done Pure Imaginaation 8c+ in Red River Gorge. Andy Wickstrom

In 2012, Matilda was #6 in the World Championship and later she focused on getting a Master degree in Business Administration. This year she is back with four routes 8c and harder.

So, so happy that I managed to keep it together and send it on the very last day! I was very close about a week earlier and then it got super cold (too cold for me to be able to climb on the crimps of Pure Imagination haha). Then we got one day with perfect conditions and I was able to send it I learnt a lot and enjoyed the process of projecting and all of the mental challenges & mind games that it includes.

Pure Imagination is an amazing line (bolted by Kenny Baker), a lot of nice crimps and fun sequences. Can’t wait to come back to the Red for more climbing!”

 
 
Gancho perfecto 9a (+) by Felipe Camargo  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFelipe Camargo, who previously has done one 9a+ and one 8C, has repeated Chris Sharma's 9a Gancho Perfecto in Margalef. Although it was put up ten years ago it only has had five repeats, out of which everyone calling it hard. The Brazilian with 66 000 followers on Insta suggests an upgrade to 9a+. (c) Anva Creative

"I tried it for basically 2 months now! But the second month, the end of the route was totally wet! So I just trained in the gym here at Sharma climbing and climbed a lot on the bottom! Now it dried and i did it :) I have two weeks left in Spain and I think I will focus on Bon Combat. I dunno if I can do it but I want to get close and comeback to it. It is amazing."

 
 
 
Bombero de la Roca 7a+ in Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done two impressive FAs in Camaiore; La Terza Eta 9a which he did in four tries and Naturalmente 9a+.

"One of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say."

The level is going up in 2017 and Ondra is leading the pack. During four days, the 23 year old has done two 9b's, two 9a+' and two 9a's. It will be interesting to follow the progression during 2017.

 
 
Pau Contreras en Wonder boy (8b) FA, Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
Rescat Emocional (7b+), Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

 
 
Hungry Monkeys in Railay  Facebook
 


Hungry Monkeys from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

 
 
Tredje 8a av Olof Morsing (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing, som togs ut till J-landslaget efter att ha kommit #19 på Europacupen i Imst, har gjort sin tredje 8a, Musen i Vikskile och dagen innan gjordes Trettio-åriga kriget 7c+. Tidigare i år så har 14-åringen onsightat sju 7c. Bilden är från Träleberget 2015 av Olof Hedberg.

 
 
Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

 
 
8b av Hannes Puman på Örnberget  Facebook
 

Hannes Puman har gjort Breaking the lwa 8b på Örnberget. "I spöregn och åska. Spännande. Använde inte enfingerspocketen."

För två år sedan blev Hannes juniorvärldsmästare och förra året junioreuropmästare. Första tävlingen på Världscupen i år är Briancon 23-24 juli.

 
 
Mer renoveringsbultning i Stockholm  Facebook
 

Stockholms Klätterförbund rapporterar att man har bultat om och lagt till bultar samt rensat Anneberg som är en av de mest tillgängliga klipporna i Stockholm. Trenden med att lägga till bultar på lätta old-school leder för att göra de mindre farliga fortsätter i hela Sverige.

Säkerhetskommitten har vidare fått i uppdrag att skriva om den nationella bultpolicyn baserat på en motion till förbundsmötet.

 
 
Två 8c i Flatanger och Två 8A (+) i Västervik av Hannes  Facebook
 

Hannes Puman, som precis har tagit körkort, tog först bilen till Västervik och satte två 8A (+), So I Fly och Animal Act. Sen bar det iväg till Flatanger där två 8c gjordes, Muy Verdes och The Valkyrie.

Nästa resa sker med flyg till Warsawa för att tävla på Europacupen i Bouldering till helgen. Man kan tycka att köra 30 meters takturer inte är bästa förberedelserna för en bouldertävling men Lead är fokuset för J-Världsmästaren även i år.

 
 
9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti."

In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

 
 
8b onsight av Erik Grandelius i Norge  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureErik Grandelius har onsightat Slettakraft extension 8b i Slettafossen vilket är en, "Link-up of 7c into 8a+." Sista månaden har han även onsightat ytterligare tre 8a i Norge. (c) Paula Voldner

- Var i romsdalen för att göra lätta fjällturer men han få in lite sport på vilodagarna :) Vi klättrade bland annat Romsdalshorn 5+, (c) Paula Voldner, och Mongjura 25 replängder 6+. Nu är jag i Flatanger med ambition att göra Brunnhilde 8c.

 
 
Fem 7c onsight av Olof Morsing (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing är nu uppe i fem 7c onsight på Kalymnos inklusive den ansett hårda Aegialis. Förra året så var perset fem 7a+ och en 7b+ onsight så utveck- lingen går mycket snabbt 14- åringen.

 
 
8b+ av Kristoffer Lindbäck i Niemisel  (3) Facebook
 

Kristoffer Lindbäck har gjort sin första 8b+, När Lammen Tystnar i Niemisel. Tidigare i vintras kom han #4 på SM i Lead och det var hans första leadtävling. Supertalangen som numera tränas av förbundskaptenen har bara klättrat i fem år då han slutade fotbollsgymnasiet.

 
 
Två 7c onsight av Olof Morsing (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing, som precis har tagits ut till J-landslaget efter att ha kommit #18 i Europacupen i Imst, har onsightat Hogo Fogo och Neolitic Line på Kalymnos. Sammanlagt har 14-åringen onsightat fyra 7c i vår så vi pratar ny svensk talang med grym utvecklingskurva.

 
 
Ungdomsläger i Lysekil nästa helg  Facebook
 

Lysekils KK bjuder in till Ungdomsläger nästa helg med start på lördag kl 10.00 vid Trellebystrands Camping. Man vänder sig till 9 till 13 åringar som klättrar dock krävs ingen utomhuserfarenhet. Kostnaden är 0 kr men man måste vara medlem i Lysekils KK som kostar 130 kr. Ledarna är bland annat två erfarna 16-åriga tjejer.

 
 
Close to 6 000 crags in the database  Facebook
 

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

 
 
Jon Cardwell has done Biographie 9a+: Interview!  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who did his first 9a in 2008, has done his long-term project, Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. It was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Chris Sharma made the FA in 2001. Biographie has seen 13 ascents to date, which makes it the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Carlo Traversi

Check out Jon's comments for his nicest journey that took ten years and included 75 tries.

- Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"

 
 
Mycket lyckat J-SM på Klätterdomen  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDet rapporteras om ett mycket välorganiserat och uppskattat J-SM på perfekt utslagsgivande leder i både kval och final, arrangerat av Kvibergs KK, Kolla videos. Barnen som topprepstävlade och fick prova olika grenar inom klättersporten njöt i fulla muggar.

97: Fredrik Serlachius
99: Nea Herforth & Ymer Alber, se bild
01: Olof Morsing & Ella Kallas
03: Sofie Asterling & Dennis Yakubenko
05: Linda Asterling & Simon Borgh

Kvibergs KK tog tre guld och bland pojkar 01 var fyra av de fem bästa från arrangörsklubben. I de två yngsta tjejklasserna var de fyra bästa från hemmaklubben. Det enda tråkiga på J-SM var det låga deltagarantalet och var sammanlagt bara två i de äldsta klasserna. Vidare sammanlagt bara sju i de tre äldsta tjejklasserna. Största klasserna var i barnklasserna med deltagare från fem år.

 
 
Megos lovordar Västervik igen  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos som numera delvis är bosatt i Stockholm har återigen besökt Västervik som han lovordar på Facebook.

"Back again in ‪#‎västervik‬ after the first trip 3 weeks ago. This place keeps surprising me! Went to a @nk_ceria problem called "Primitiv" 8A+ and probably got the first repeat(?!) as well as a flash of "Pro2" 8A and Golden Path Low" 8A/+ and a send of "Animal Act" 8A+."

Med tanke på att flera ledande bouldrare har ifrågasatt dagens grader i Västervik kan man notera att Megos under sina två resor till Västervik har bekräftat alla grader.

 
 
8C after driving 7 000 km by Tamás Zupán  (17) Facebook
 

Tamás Zupán has set a new record of dedication by doing his second 8C, Zunami in Saalachtal, driving 7 000 kilometers to reach his goal.

- I was there with my friend in the middle of March and I climbed some boulders in the lower sector and I tried Gizmo 8B, which is a variant of Zunami. I live 600 km far from Saalachtal and I could travel there only on Wednesdays because of my work. I woke up at 4:30 a.m., started my journey from home at 5 a.m. and I came in Saalachtal at 11 a.m. I climbed until 2 p.m. and I arrived at 8 p.m. I climbed ’Gizmo’ on the second trip and finally I could manage ’Zunami’ on my 6th trip.

The first move is incredible complex because in the same time you should move separately your all limbs when make the crossing movement, after it is really crimpy, overhanging and that’s why I really liked it.

 
 
Fucking far from OK 8a+ av Max Boholm  (2) Facebook
 

Max Boholm, gammal juniorlandslagsman, kan sägas vara något av en late bloomer och verkar 20 år senare som 34-åring vara i sitt livs form. Idag gjordes Fucking far from OK, 8a+ i Vikskile. Hemligheten var uppvärmning på greppbräda i 20 minuter vid halv nio på morgonen. En annan förklaring till sista halvårets peak kan vara salvan han sätter på fingertopparna - Antihydral.

Väl uppe i Vikskile så klättrades en 10 meter 6b, lammet och därefter sändes leden som Yuji Hirayama satte upp i mitten på 90-talet. Därefter testade Max Hingsten 8a+ och den bör gå snabbt.

 
 
Årets äventyrare intervjuad  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFreedom travel har intervjuat Said Belhaj i samband till att han blev utsedd till årets klättrare. Bild Terje Aamodt.

- Jag är född -81 i Mölndal utanför Göteborg. Min far är från Marocko och min mor från Finland och jag talar 6 språk flytande. Jag har klättrat i 25 år, varav 15 professionellt. Jag har också spelat musik i hela mitt liv, numer med fokus på musik från Nord- och Västafrika, och spelar med olika musiker och artister runt hela världen. Dessutom är jag fotograf.

Jag började klättra i berg i början av 90-talet för att jag älskade klättring. Jag visste inte vad bergsklättring var, kände inga klättrare, det fanns knappt någon info på den tiden osv men en näst intill besatt passion har lett mig till var jag är idag.

 
 
7C av Anja Hodann (38)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnja Hodann har gjort Tjing Tjong 7C i Orminge. Tidigare har hon gjort tre 8A och den sista 2012. 2006 var Anja #8 på Världscupen efter att en gång stått på prispallen. Sammanlagt gör detta Anja till den mest framgångsrika svenska bouldrare. Här tävlar hon på Ninja Warriors.

 
 
En av de bästa boulderdagarna någonsin för Megos i Västervik  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"What a day!!! ‪#‎västervikclimbing‬ at it's finest! Got the classics-tour with @slacker12 and managed to flash "Dillerium" 8A and "David and Goliath" 8A+ and got the first repeat of "Mechanical Bull" 8B. As well on the tick lost today were "Go all day sit" 8A, "D+P Combo" 8B, "Namaste" 8A+, "By the Book" 8A+ and "Celtic Warrior" 8A. So I had one of my best bouldering days ever!!! Psyched for more tomorrow!" (c) Daniela Ebler

 
 
8a+ av Johan Luhr (54)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJohan Luhr satte upp Stairway to Heaven på Örnberget 1996 vilket då som 8a+ var en av de svåraste lederna i Sverige. Igår gjorde han den igen som 54-åring. Målet med säsongen är att göra minst en 8b+.

"Känns mer som 8b när steget på läppen försvunnit ! 2 snäpp svårare än I´ll be back."

 
 
Megos lovordar Västervik  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"BLOWN AWAY from Swedish bouldering! Went to #västervik today and got shown around by the guidebook authors @slacker12 and Jim Wasmuth. Climbed the classics "The Hourglass" 8B and "The Office" 8A this afternoon. Picture is from the combination "Night Shift" 8A+. Can't wait to go out again tomorrow!!!" (c) Daniela Ebler

 
 
8b igen av Stefan Wulf (45)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Wulf är på en tre veckors trip till Siurana som har startat bra med en 8b, Tres Tristes Triceps.

- Planen var att testa en 8c. Men det blev istället en led som jag spanat in på en tidigare resa. Ca 40m lång med ett för min del extremt hårt bouldercrux i mitten. Trodde den skulle gå ner fortare men fick kämpa 4 dagar för att ta mig förbi sista cruxflyttet. Nu bara några dagar kvar på resan med att beta av några st fina 8a'n

 
 
7C av Daniela Ebler  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniela Ebler berättar om sin första 7C på Instagram,

"Sunes Sommar Assis, 7c.
Checked this problem out about 2-3 years ago, came back yesterday and wanted to give the stand start a go. Did it first try, so decided to try the sit start. And what do you know, that also worked on the first go! My first 7c!

 
 
8b onsight by Laura Rogora (14) and one more today  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who just did her first 9a, has onsighted Batuka 8b in Margalef and she put up all the draws by herself. Batuka has been recorded 57 times in the data base, all with 8b and only two guys have onsighted it before.

- The route is divided in two sections with a very good rest in the middle. The first four bolt are hard and I thought to fall every move. The second part is easier but there is another hard move. Today was the first day of the trip. In this week I would like to visit new crags: Santa Linya, Rodellar...

Today the 14-year-old onsighted Codigo Norte, an 8b in Santa Linya. "I'm staying here just for one week so I think I will climb only onsight."

 
 
Bouldervärldscupen startar utan svenskar  (2) Facebook
 

Boulderväldscupen startar till helgen i Schweiz och på anmälningslistan finns det 142 deltagare från 30 länder men inga svenskar. Förbundskaptenen Reino Horak förklarar att visst intresse finns men det är svårt för de aktiva då det inte finns några nationella svenska tävlingar att träna på.

Om två veckor avgörs NM i Bouldering i Danmark, dit ett dussintal svenskar inkl juniorer har anmält intresse. Förhoppningsvis får vi svenska framgångar och några som blir peppade på att tävla internationellt. Annars är dock planen att ett par juniorer ska pröva lyckan på en Bouldervärldscup i sommar säger Horak.

 
 
8a av Olof Morsing och Marcus Gillberg  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing har varit på Kvibergs KK årliga vårresa till Margalef och passade på att göra sina första två 8a; Dr Feelgood and Transilvania. Vidare sattes de två första 7c onsighten så den hårda vinterträningen har burit frukt. Första tävlingen går på lördag i Eskilstuna och sen i maj så blir det först J-SM och sedan Europacupen i Imst. På bilden även Marcus Gillberg som även han fick ihop en 8a och både tillhör J-landslagets träningsgrupp. Olof komenterar.

- Transilvania jobbade vi på en eftermiddag sen sände jag och Marcus den på morgonen dagen efter. Dr Feelgood hängde jag igenom två gånger sen klättrade jag den. Leden passade nog mig väldigt bra. Målet I år är främst att det ska gå bra i Europa cupen, men det skall nog hinnas klättras ute en del i sommar också.

 
 
Anak Verhoeven (19) makes the FA of Ma belle ma muse 9a  (1) Facebook
 

Anak Verhoeven, who was #4 in the Lead World Cup last year, has done her second 9a, the FA of Me belle ma muse in Romeyer.



Just later, it was repeated by Jean-Elie Crestin-Billet and here is his video. Jean-Elie actually called it an 8c+/9a.

 
 
Kajsa Rosén (18) - A new star in the making  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKajsa Rosén, who did her first 8c and flashed an 8b+ last week, has done Mind Control 8c (+) and onsighted T-1 Full Equipe in Oliana. There is only a handful of female who have onsighted at this level before. "What to do next? Still suprising myself here in Oliana."

Last year, the 18-year-old was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

Loic Timmermans, who is still ahead of Kajsa with one 9a, reachead out to 8a with a nice reflection.

"Kasja is crushing all the routes she's trying like nothing. I was even more impressed when she told me she did Mind control without getting pumped. I think she has a good attitude to. Not taking things too seriously, just climbing and see what happens.

 
 
Two 8c (+) OS and a 9a+/b by Adam Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has had a great weekend. First he did the FA of Vicious Circle 9a+/b in Osp/Misja Pec, which he bolted last year. (c) Luka Fonda

"Left start into Sanski par. Bouldery and short 8c+ into the most of the Sanski par 9a (without first six moves). I would say two 8c+'s with a bad rest in between. Super powerful and resistant climbing.

The next stop was Medveja, a new secret zone in Croatia. It was one of the best days of climbing ever as I onsighted two 8c's ('The Core' is considered 8c+ by those few, who repeated the route) and the first ascent of 'More', 9a. World record maybe? Haha.

Most of the routes are slightly overhanging, crimpy on super solid rock with a minimum of Sika and in general fitting my style pretty well.

The last day I tried a project in Pandora, a different zone in Istria, which is definitely pretty hard in the region of 9b or more. Something like 20m of bouldering in the roof. Definitely a lot of rock around there worth returning for."

 
 
8B (+) flash by James Webb again  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has traveled to Finland to take part in Sisu Masters with an amazing line up including Daniel Woods and Dave Graham but also to try Nalle Hukkataival's Boulders. First they had to crush some ice on the top of the Globalist in Sipoo and then James just flashed it and gave it a personal grade of 8B. The best flash boulderer in the world has now flashed 13 8B Boulders, four out of which were originally graded 8B+. (c) Nico Backström

"Absolutely incredible boulder from Nalle that I've wanted to climb on for so long. Perfect rock, amazing movement. One of the best!"

Next up could be Hukkataival's famous Sisu or Lappnor Project that the Fin has been trying for six respectively four years speculating that it could become the next level.

 
 
8b+ flash and a 8c by Kajsa Rosén (18)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSimon Carter, a professional climbing photographer for 25 years, reports on Facebook:

"I've seen a lot of really impressive climbing over all the time I've spent at Oliana over the years... and add to that today's jaw-dropping sends by 18 year-old Swedish climber Kajsa Rosen. First up she hiked Fisheye (8c) first shot (after only working it twice yesterday), for her first of the grade, and THEN casually flashed Los Humildes pa Casa (8b+) soon after (pictured). Kajsa Rosen; a name to watch out for for sure!"

Simon is spot-on as the young Swede has had an extreme development over the last few years. In the past year, she was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

So how much beta did you get and do you still plan to get yourself a station wagon and hit the road?
I saw a french guy climbing it and he told me about a knee bar. I heard some screaming from below but it was very windy. My plan is to do some comps and some rock climbing and have fun. I graduate this year so hopefully I will have some more time for climbing.

 
 
Erik Grandelius gör 12 boulders 8A och hårdare  Facebook
 

Erik Grandelius har varit på roadtrip i en månad med Benjamin "Tumle" Linne Ryn och gjort 12 boulders 8A och hårdare inklusive Amber i Brione som han gav en personlig grad på 8A+. Dessutom flashade han Kirk Windstein i Cresciano som han graderade till 8A.

"Det flesta problemen gick ner rätt snabbt. Jag har inte kunnat bouldra ordentligt senaste två åren pga en fingerskada, men nu är det bra. Vi hade även ca 1 meter snö när vi kom till Brione, så vi klättrade på det som var torrt. Det var även kul att göra c'etait demain i fontan, världens första 8A, video.

Alltid kul att klättra med Tumle, vi är på samma nivå men har olika styrkor och svagheter. Tumle flashade Cellar Door 8A.

 
 
8C by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (21) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureReel Rock Film Tour comes with the amazing news that Ashima Shiraishi has made the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's spectacular Horizon 8C, in Hiei, Japan. The 14-year-old worked on the 30 move long roof problem in December and now she has done it on her third day, which means she is the first female and the youngest climber ever to have reached 8C. Here you can find Dai's comment on his FA including a picture where you see that it is almost a horizontal roof.

- "No doubt the Super Project was the hardest problem I’'ve ever done and that probably means it’s a V16 (8C+). However, I’'m not quite sure because I don’t have enough references to compare with. I would be able to fully understand what V15 (8C) is like exactly if I did more than fifty or so of them, but my accomplishments don’t even come close to that."

Based on Ashima's Route and Boulder ticklist, she has been the world's best female rock climber since she was 12 years old. Among the male, she is currently in the Top-20 including also having done two 9a's last autumn. How many 14-year-old girls are able to compete with the best male in any sport? (c) Brett Lowell

 
 
Janvid och Duncan vinner 100 %  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture100 % på Klätterverket samlade 50 deltagare och här är prispallen. På bilden Björn Alber.

1. Vincent Janvid - Freja Duncan
2. Per Holm - Eugenia Bolander
3. Viktor Elofsson - Linda Hammarström
Kompletta resultat

 
 
8C by Ryuichi Murai incl amazing 240 spin  (3) Facebook
 

Ryuichi Murai , who two weeks ago did two 8B+, has done Dai Koyamada's Babel 8C in Shiobara. "This problem links Catharsis(8B+) to Hydra(8B) via Uma(8B+). About 30 moves that include various moves made me enjoy myself."

Totally amazing! Watch that mind-boggling sequence where the 167 cm tall spins 240 degrees with his foot. How is it even possible to find such solution :)

 
 
8a (7c+) onsight av Axel Hultqvist  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAxel Hultqvist är på klättersemester på Sardinen och har onsightat Wonderland i Isili som han ger en personlig 7c+ grad. (c) Johan Ragnarsson

"Isili var ett riktigt grymt ställe, bra klättring och bra mat men inte mycket mer. Fick tre klätterdagar där och nu har vi kommit till Cala gonone. Isili är ett resmål jag definitivt kommer komma tillbaka till överhängande klättring på bra grepp, lite inomhuskänsla. Krävs att man har kört några laps på kedväggarna innan man åker hit.

Onsightpresset gick bra men blev sjukt pumpad, sista presset för dagen. Hade åkt av en 7c+ onsight på förmiddagen på grund av lite fuktigt grepp från regnet under natten och sedan hade jag kört lite andra leder innan vi gick tillbaka och jag fick slita mig upp för leden.

 
 
Stella och Axel vinner #2 GBG Bouldercup  Facebook
 

Stella Plantin och Axel Hulqvist vann den andra deltävlingen i Göteborgs Bouldercup som avgjordes i lördags på Klätterlabbet. Magnus Högström onsightade även han alla problem med blev placerad två pga sämre kvalresultat. Sista deltävlingen på Klätterdomen går den 18 mars och sedan gör de 8 bästa i varje klass gör upp i finalen på Klätterfabriken den 8 april. Kompletta resultat

 
 
Laura Rogora (14) does her first 9a  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora has become the first Italian female to do a 9a by Grandi Gesti in Sperlonga, which is a 20 meter long roof link up. Last year the 14-year-old won both Lead and Boulder Italian Championships and to make the story even more amazing, she mainly just trains in a Bouldering gym. She is #1 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Stefano Michelin/UP-Climbing

- It took me about 15-20 tries in one month and half. I went to Sperlonga seven times. I didn't do a specific training for this route because my purpose is training for competition. Now I need going to train hard for competition especially for the world youth championship in China in November. Surely I will continue to climb on the rock. I planned a trip to Spain in April I think I will climb on sight.

 
 
Träning, Tävling och Sabbatsår för Hannes  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHannes Puman (18), Sveriges bäste manlige tävlingsklättrare de sista åren, kommenterar sin sista 8A+, Optimal på Graveyard-blocken alldeles utanför Eskilstuna.

Berätta lite om din nya 8A+ FA. Får du ens köra så hårt enligt Nickis träningsprogram och hur lång tid tog det och vad är det för område?

- Jag kör grundträning, men i den så är det mycket styrka så det känns ganska bra att bouldra. Jag var där 3 gånger och körde men första gången så borstade jag typ bara. Det tar ungefär 10 min att åka från stan och det finns relativt många block där, annars brukar det bara vara några enstaka block här och där runt Eskilstuna.

Vad har du för planer 2016?
Tar studenten i år så första halvåret blir det hård träning och tävling...sen hoppas jag främst på att bara resa runt och klättra i ett år :)

 
 
Mowgli repeats his 8B+ (C) twice after just a short warm up  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCharles Albert, who did the FA of the L'Alchimiste left exit last week, considered to be harder than the 8C right exit, did it today twice. (c) Neil Hart did get it on video both times.

"He is so strong he made it look like a 6A. I picked him up at one o'clock and we did a very quick 7B that took two tries and we drove to the L'alchimiste. He just pulled on and fell three times on the crux then sent it, then climbed it again so we could get another angle.

It is easier for him bare foot because he can hook his toes into the side pulls better. Definitely a new level!"

 
 
Women are catching up in the Santa Linya caves  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSome ten years ago, several men - notably Dani Andrada, Patxi Usobiaga and Chris Sharma - broke through to the next grading level establishing several 9a's and 9a+'s in Santa Linya. As of 2016, however, it seems that progress has become stagnant with Chris Sharma's two 9b FAs representing the highest attainable level.

Women, in the mean time, have caught up, in 2010 Angela Eiter did the first female 8c in Santa Linya. Quickly thereafter other women have followed suit with ten other females having completed climbs ranging from 8c to 9a(+) over the last two years. Complete stats. In this great picture captured by Luka Fonda, Janja Garnbret (16) flashes La Fabelita 8c.

If the trend continues, it is only a matter of time before women are on par with men in Santa Linya. While impossible to know for certain, one of the reasons behind such phenomenal progress for women may lie in the nature of the climbing in the cave where technical skill and endurance are of vital importance. That, and the fact that these ten women - and the many who will follow - are testaments of climbing strength and power.

 
 
Charles Albert interview  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic Climbing has made an interview with Charles Albert, who did an 8C yesterday, giving it a personal grade of 8B+. The interesting fact is that the 18-year-old seldom trains indoor and the only training he does beside Bouldering is stretching. (c) Neil Hart

"Yesterday I was climbing alone without pads and luckily I met Kevin Thibaut and Mounir (strong but low profile Font locals) who were trying it. I joined them and I managed to send it on my first real session trying the left version. Regarding the grade, I would say for me it’s not harder than “Gecko assis”, the 8B+ I did barefoot last year… I also tried the sit start of “Alchimiste” which adds an easy but beautiful move but doesn’t change the difficulty. I have not done the sit-start version but will come back and try sending the whole thing because it makes the line even more beautiful !"

 
 
"A 14-year-old girl redefines rock climbing"  (6) Facebook
 

BBC has made an interview with Ashima Shiraishi, where, among other things, she says her goal is to break records held by her male counterparts. The 14-year-old claims to be the only female to have done a 9a+ (Direct open your mind R1 in Santa Linya) and the youngest person to have reached that grade.

It should be noticed that the route was originally a 9a until some holds broke and it was speculated that it might be a 9a+. Later Edu Marin repeated it saying it is still a 9a. The first woman to claim having done a 9a+ route was Josune Bereziartu (route: Bimbaluna), which has been subject of being downgraded.

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