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8c+/9a by Iker Pou  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIker Pou reports on Instagram that has repeated Xavi González' route Santaropa 8c+/9a in Majorca. ©Pedro Bover

"Taking advantage of spring temperatures and good conditions, I get to get "SANTAROPA" 8c + / 9a in #Mallorca. First repetition, after the strong climber from Mallorca Xavi González."

 
 
Piotr Schab towards the top with 3 rest days a week  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab did Era Vella 8c+ (9a) when he was 16 years old and his first 9a+, Papichulo when he was 19 years old. In 2018, he did four 9a+' and last week he did one more, La Rambla. (c) Pablo Benedito

"The biggest goal of the year is to climb a 9b. I’d love to go back to Fight or Flight. Now it’s time to train again and the plan is to make a month long Catalan trip again in April. Hopefully I’ll be ready to try hard then and the conditions will make the efforts possible. If not I’ll switch again to my favorite style, onsighting and quick redpoints. There are still a lot of routes in a 9a/+ range that are waiting to be climbed. 8c+ onsight is a second big challenge that I look forward to achieve this year.

So please tell us something about training?
This winter I used to do 7 sessions in 4 days a week (3 gym training's included). 21 hours a week, super intense. Now it’ll be different - less volume, more intensity so I hope to take a step further.

Do you really mean three rest days a week?
Yes - Neither climbing nor gym 3 days a week. While you’re doing Raw power sessions in a gym I think it’s more efficient. I’m quite satisfied with the results - in 14 days in Spain I could climb hard 2 days in a row followed by one rest day and it does not happen that often for me.

Piotr finished off his Catalan trip by quickly doing 20 años después 9a and Sin acido clorhidrico 8c+. "They are both are pretty manufactured but the moves and lines create a nice challenge."

 
 
Adam Ondra: Road to Tokyo #1  Facebook
 

 
 
Nicholas Perreth - Lifestyle climber on one leg  Facebook
 

 
 
Wanting to stop the guy who already stopped chipping?  Facebook
 

Rock & Ice have published an open letter - Chipping and Manufacturing Climbs in Ten Sleep Canyon Needs to Stop. The original letter is mainly pointing out one guy who last week come clean and said he had stopped chipping almost a year ago. This is how he finished a post in a Facebook thread.

"I also in no way am trying to discount what I have done. Regardless of what was done previously in the canyon, I have crossed lines when bolting some of my routes. I own this 100% and have paid for those choices, am now paying for them, and will no doubt pay more in the future for them."

I have been in contact with the guys writing the open letter and asked the question why they run the - Stop the chipping campaign, when it was stopped almost a year ago? As I did not get any answer, is there anybody who knows what this really is about, as also R & I picked it up?

 
 
Jimmy Webb portrait projecting down Dreamcatcher 9a  Facebook
 

 
 
Michaela Kiersch wins in Hueco Rock Rodeo with 5 8A and >  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaela Kiersch, #1 in the Lead ranking game, won the Hueco Rock Rodeo by doing five boulders 8A and harder during one day. Highlights were two 8A+'; Barefoot on Sacred Ground and Tequila Sunrise. Once they are logged, she will advance to #5 in the Boulder ranking game. Merrickales

1. Michaela Kirsch 6 870 - Keenan Takahashi 7 290
2. Alex Puccio 6 630 - Sam Davis 7 050
3. Paige Claasen 5 910 - Thilo Schröter 6 990
Complete results

 
 
El Dorado 9a FA by Carlos Ruano  Facebook
 

 
 
Barefoot on Sacred Ground 8A+ by Tina Johnsen Hafsaas  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTina Johnsen Hafsaas continues to deliver in Hueco Tanks and five days ago she did the classic Barefoot on Sacred Ground 8A+. Yesterday, during the Hueco Rock Rodeo, she did Dark Ages 8A. In the Combined ranking, the Norweigian is #3. Thilo Schröter

The winners of Hueco Rock Rodeo 2019 were Michalea Kirsch and Keenan Takahashi. Report to follow.

 
 
Puccio and Faus doing Halfway Crooks 8A+  Facebook
 

 
 
Leonidio Climbing Festival 2018  Facebook
 

 
 
La Pelle 8A Karo Sinnhuber  Facebook
 


La Pelle 8A karo sinnhuber from Karoline Sinnhuber on Vimeo.

 
 
K2 is much more dangerous than Honnold's Free Solo  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNational Geographic has presented some more insights in regards Alex Honnold's Free Solo of the 950 meters Freerider 7c in Yosemite.

It turns out that he had practiced the boulder crux, midways up, >60 times. "One move on the most difficult section required him to cling to a pea-size nub while “karate kicking” one leg to reach a toehold."

The Freeblast slabs he practiced >90 times and the Enduro corner >40 times. This just underlines the strong message in the movie that Alex is not a lunatic but instead he had rehearsed so much so the risk was very low. In practice, the boulder crux was probably 7A+ meaning for him it was just more or less a technical and mental difficulty and the same goes for the Freeblast slab.

Alex has 961 climbs recorded in his scorecard out of which two 8A+' as well as three 8c+'. (His next climbing goal is to do 9a). So his safety margin doing 7c pitches and one 7A+ boulder was probably very big.

In reality, the best estimation how dangerous it was might be to say that if he had done it 100 times, he had fallen to the ground once. This 1 % risk of death could be compared with trying to summit K2 with a much higher probability to die.

So the million of movie viewers should instead think about how much dangerous it is to summit K2. "About one person dies on the mountain for every four who reach the summit."

 
 
Memory is Parallax 8B+ by Isabelle Faus  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus reports on Insta that she has done Memory is Parallax 8B+ in RMNP which is a 3-star line where the crux revolves around two knee drops. Isabelle is the new #1 in the ranking game and she will be #45 among the males ones it has been recorded. In the history of 8a, only Alec Puccio has had a higher female score but with one more 8B+ by Isa, she is the #1 All Time.

"I tried really hard and found the right beta, it took probably ten sessions maybe more. The key was this new foot sequence I found, makes one move a bit harder but sets me up really well for the ending. Finding that beta definitely made it all click together. In a month I go to Swiss and then Africa this summer again. I wanna try hard and have fun!"

 
 
Four 8B+' in a month by Keenan Takahasi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKeenan Takahashi did his first 8A being 23 years old and then he has had a strong progress for four straight years. Just during the last one month he has done four 8B+', out of which two the last week in Hueco Tanks; Blood of a Young Wolfand The Seventh Circle. (c) Brian Hedrick

How can you explain this peak?
I’m feeling pretty fit and motivated this year; I started doing some basic supplemental training to work my biggest weakness (core). Otherwise just lots of volume trying hard boulders, and some added training at the end of climbing days which I’ve never tried/done before.

What is the plan and ambition for 2019?
I’m heading to Switzerland for 6 weeks soon; the last couple of months have kind of just been preparation for that trip. I haven’t really climbed in the Ticino area so I’m really excited to finally get to spend a good chunk of time there and hopefully find some new stuff. The other big trip I have planned for the year is to get back to Rocklands in summer; I have two boulders I want to repeat but mostly want to try and develop hard highballs. It’s always been my biggest driving factor and finally having more power I’m hoping it can open doors to really pushing myself both physically and mentally.

 
 
Devastator 8A+ by Ashima inventing a new move  Facebook
 

 
 
Aggravated Assault 8B+ by Zach Galla (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureZach Galla, who recently won the US Combined Nationals, has done his first 8B+, Aggravated Assault in Griffin Falls.

"Oh my god yes. Used some weird heel beta. Thought it was gonna make it 8B but it still felt quite a bit harder than the others I’ve done." Full video by (c) Ashima Shiraishi

 
 
Kirk Windstein 8A (+) by Karoline Sinnhuber  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, who was #8 in the Boulder WC last year, has done La Pelle left 8A and Kirk Windstein 8A (+) in Cresciano. (c) Fabian Leu

”I decided to stop competing a few weeks ago and just do outdoor stuff from now on. There are so many areas I wanna visit and I’m not really psyched for that comp style anymore.”

 
 
Giuliano Cameroni: Deal with the Devil (8B/V13)  Facebook
 

 
 
Vertical-Life Smart Quickdraw ISPO winner  Facebook
 

 
 
Petra Klingler bronze in UIAA Ice World Cup  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePetra Klingler, Boulder World Champion from 2016 and who last year was #6 in the Combined WCHin Innsbruck, got the bronze last weekend in the UIAA Ice World Cup. Vladek Zumr

In 2015, Petra was #2 overall and since then she has just done few and actually most of the time gotten a medal. Interesting to see world class skill in two totally different climbing disciplines. She is active on Insta and we can see she enjoys all disciplines and training hard with the goal qualifying to Tokyo.

 
 
Zlagboard with interactive training program  Facebook
 

 
 
Sanjski par extension 9a by Nico Ferlitsch (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNico Ferlitsch has done his second 9a, Sanjski par extension in Osp/Misja Pec after some 35 tries, video.

"In the last two weekends I had some very close attempts but yesterday it was finally done. The route is very overhanging, partly even a horizontal roof, where you need a lot of bodytension and fingerstrength on small crimps. This is something I really love.

My ambition for 2019 is to climb more hard stuff, but for now it's time to visit my home climbing areas, to do some training and just have some fun. In spring I want to go again to Frankenjura for making some tries on the famous route "Action Directe".

At the moment there are no comps around, maybe (if it takes place this year) I will compete at the event "Free Solo Masters" in Lienz. I'm still a passionate ROCKclimber but we will see what the future will bring."

 
 
Kuzan 8C by Ryohei Kameyama  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyohei Kameyama has done his third 8C, Kuzan in Mie which is a seven moves 8B+ that finishes with a 8B dyno. (c) Muraguchi Liao

"This hard boulder was established two years ago by Toshi Takeuchi. I tried it for three sessions. I'm so happy and satisfied to feel my progress. I would like to try "Off the wagon low start" and "Sleepwalker". These boulders are so cool!"

 
 
Neanderthal 9b and Catxasa 9a+ by Adam Ondra  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra reports on Insta that he has done Catxasa 9a+ and Neanderthal 9b in Santa Linya. Ondra started working the Chris Sharma 9b back in 2011 and then he tried it for several days also in 2015, 2017 and 2019 until he sent it. (c) Artofroute

"There are not many routes that I can tell about that I really hated then at certain point. But Neanderthal was definitely one of them. Not because the route is of bad quality, just because how many times I failed again and again. Getting over it and finally succeeding was a huge lesson."

In total, the 25 year old Czech has now done 24 routes 9b and harder. The runner ups are Chris Sharma with eight followed by Jakob Schubert and Stefano Ghisolfi with five 9b's or harder.

 
 
8A and 8A+ by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has had a nice day in Clear Creek Canyon where she did Off the books 8A (c) Robin O'Leary and No Halfway Crooks 8A+.

"Really fun climb! SOOO cold out! The only way I was able to climb today was from the hype and motivation from Fausey, Chad, Daniel and Robin! Thanks guys and thanks for showing us this boulder! :)"

 
 
Witness the Fitness 8C by Woods in 2013  Facebook
 

 
 
8 guys in Olympic finals but only three problems  Facebook
 

From the updated 2019 IFSC rules we can see that they have increased the number of finalists in the Combined finals to eight instead of six. Further more, in bouldering there will be only three boulders separating the finalists.

The reason for this is of course that bouldering otherwise would have taken some two hours but with just three boulders around 90 minutes.

This means more pressure on the route setters and the risk for ties and random results will increase. In practice, most probably this means easier problems and the one onsighting the most will win. Further more, due to worse friction and more pressure on the guys in the end of the starting list (the ones who were the best in Speed), the risk for up-side-down results will increase. On the other hand, this some will feel is good for the excitement before Lead.

 
 
Three 8A+ flash by Thilo Schröter in Hueco  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThilo Schröter started off his trip to Hueco Tanks with an inflamed finger which luckily healed. During the first three weeks the Norweigian has done a total of 22 boulders 8A and harder out of which seven flash. More pics by Tina Hafsaas. More pics on his Insta.

It’s my first trip to Hueco, so naturally I have a lot of moderate classics to sample, and that’s what I’ve done. Milage is a lot if fun but after a month of rampage it’s time to get on some harder things. Two more weeks in Hueco ahead, and then a week checking out Red Rocks before flying back home. Then I’ll have a month to train and enjoy good conditions in Norway before the BWC‘s start. As of now I’m only planing on competing at the first three that are in Europe, and focus more on rock for the rest of the year with trips to Rocklands, Grampians, Font and the Norwegian west coast. And I plan to do Tokyo as well.”

 
 
Rumble in the Jungle 8A (+) by Tina Hafsaas  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTina Hafsaas, #4 in Chamonix Lead WC in 2017, has done two 8A's and Rumble in the Jungle 8A (+) in Hueco Tanks. More pics and info on her Insta, (c) Thilo Schröter.

"I’m having a blast here in Hueco Tanks. The style suits me pretty well with steep and long climbing mainly on crimps. I had a great week by sending Le Chninkel and Sunshine each in one session and finish Rumble in the Jungle pretty fast as well. Now I’m sucked into project mode on a few boulders that feel harder for me. They challenge me in styles and techniques I’m not as good at and I hope I will finish them off before we head to Red Rocks.

I will do the full lead World Cup and the European and World Championship in lead. I will not aim for the Olympics as the format does not feel like the sport I am passionate about."

 
 
La Rambla 9a+ by Piotr Schab  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has done his fifth 9a+ the last year, La Rambla in Siurana. The Pole did his first 9a being 16 years old and then he has had seven years of continuous progress and he is #2 in the ranking game after Adam Ondra.

"I’ve started trying La Rambla this week, giving it a warm-up go and one try each day. Yesterday during the warm-up go I changed betas in three different sections so sending the route right afterwards was very unexpected. Felt solid all the way up + the conditions were prime. Eventually I sent La Rambla during my 4th day on it, 8 tries with 4 warm-ups included. Such a shame Dave (Graham) fell on the very last move right after my ascent.

 
 
Boldyrev is going for Tokyo - could get gold  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDanyil Boldyrev believes he and some other Speed specialist have a great chance of qualify to Tokyo during the WCH, where the Top-7 get an Olympic ticket. He will go for at least two Lead and Boulder World Cups before the WCH in Tokyo and he thinks and hope at least 15 Speed specialist will participate.

Training wise his focus is Bouldering and he hopes to be Top-40. In Lead, it might be harder for the explosive power house at 193 cm and 85 kg to fight the endurance. "In the competition I will be 78-80 kg.


"I love bouldering so much and train three to four times a week. I am a sprinter and athlete in mind, blood, muscles and I love competitions. I always focus and enjoy, and say God, thank you for new day."

The key for Boldyrev or any other Speed-specialist making it to Tokyo is not so much their personal result in Lead and Boulder but how many Speed specialists that will compete in the WCH. Further more, as only the first Japanese get a ticket to Tokyo in the WCH, in theory also #12 can qualify if all the Japanese are Top-11.

If Boldyrev win Speed and becomes #40 and #80 in the other two disciplines he should mathematically be #10 - 15 if some 15 Speed specialists participate in Combined. If there are 25 Speed specialist he would mathematically be #8 - 12. So it is certainly a long shoot for the Ukrainian or any other Speed specialist to reach Tokyo.

On the other hand there is the Tripartite option, meaning some guys will invite a qualification Lucky looser to participate. Once in Tokyo, there is like a 20 % chance that 1 * 20 * 20 will make it to the Top-8 final. Once in the Top-8 final, mathematically the chances for the bronze is like 10 %.

However, for 193 cm Boldyrev there is always the chance that he on a slab or a vertical problem he might use his reach and become one of the few doing it. Later he can just hope that the route setter has made a mistake and almost no other top the remaining three and Boldyrev gets #10 in Bouldering. In the Combined final there are just three problems 2019 so theoretically the Olympic gold winner in Tokyo can be Danyil Boldyrev.

 
 
Software developers wanted  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIN OWN MATTER: Would you like to be part of Vertical-Life? Join our motivated team now! Send your application and CV to careers@vertical-life.info.

Ruby on Rails developer (full stack). You will be part of the Web-Applications team. The role involves developing our various result service applications.

Requirements:
* Experience with Ruby on Rails or similar language and framework
* Good communication and collaboration skills

Valuable skills:
* Backend: RoR, Sidekiq
* Frontend: Vue.js
* TDD
* Databases: Mysql, Redis, ElasticSearch
* DevOps: RoR deployments, Docker, Kubernetes
* Team: Agile, Git/Mercurial

Please contact careers@vertical-life.info.

 
 
Speed might loose importance in 2019  Facebook
 

The Combined World Cup in 2019 is based on the Top-2 "relative" results in the three disciplines. Last year, almost non of the Speed specialist took part meaning that Jakob Schubert "relatively" was #2 in his best comp although he was #26 among the Speed specialists.

If ten of the Speed specialist will do two boulder and two lead events, the Speed performance will dramatically loose it's importance for the non-Speed specialists. Schubert's Combined score in 2018 was 1 in Lead, 6 in Boulder and 8 in Speed = 48 points.

In 2018, he could have been beaten by climber A who had scored 6 in Lead, 7 in Boulder and 1 in Speed = 42 points or climber B with 1 * 1 * 45 = 45 points.

If we add ten Speed climbers, their new ranking would be:
1. B = 55 points instead of 45
2. Schubert = 108 points instead of 48
3. A = 462 points instead of 47

In other words, if ten male Speed climbers show up in Meiringen 5/4, the non-speed specialist could more or less set their Speed training at pause. Actually, even with just five Speed specialist competing in Combined in 2019, Speed climbing will dramatic loose it’s importance in 2019.

 
 
Ondras does 9a and projects 9a+ in Chile  Facebook
 

 
 
Speed advices from the champ 5.61 Boldyrev  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDanyil Boldyrev, former Speed world record holder at 5.61 and once WCH, is going for the Olympics and 5.3 seconds. He is also a Speed coach for many countries like Germany, Slovenia, USA, China and Austria etc. Last week he had some sessions with Jan Hojer and Yannik Flohe who he thinks are very talented and could go down to 6.65 this year.

He agrees that you can check your Speed potential by focusing and measuring the time of the first 4-5 moves and standing long jump. The Ukrainian can jump 3.30 cm.

"But I prefer using 20 exercises and after I could decide the potential. For me time is less important but instead the quality of movements on the speed wall and how athletes will do my special exercises. Without good coordination it will be very hard to make athletes, speed athletes.

Speed climbing it's also a hard mental game. You must always analyze and visualize how you want to climb. Never forget about coordination, flexibility and fast training. Fluency and power on the speed wall it's the best way for great speed and time and stability of course."


We will follow up with Boldyrev's personal thoughts and plans for making it to the Olympics.

 
 
Jimmy Webb - Zika (8B+/V14) FA  Facebook
 

 
 
No half way Crooks 8A+ by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done her 35th 8A+, No half way Crooks 8A+ in Clear Creek Canyon. Previously she has also done 17 8B's and two 8B+'

"It took me probably five sessions. I felt really close from the beginning, but there was one move that I couldn't do correctly on the try. Once I did it right I did it.

I guess next is Memory is parallax (8B+), feeling good about it, but I also wanna check out Everything gneiss (8B+) and try Dark waters (8B), which are both in the same canyon as no half way crooks :))"

 
 
Faus and Fultz in Clear Creek Canyon  Facebook
 

 
 
Crashpad Dummy 8B+ in a session by Moritz Welt (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt has had two great weeks doing three 8B's and Crashpad Dummy 8B+ in Frankenjura. Amazingly he just needed one session for each boulder. During the last year the 17 year old has done 67 boulders and 8A and harder and 73 routes 8a+ and harder and he is #4 in the Combined ranking.

"I think my goal was trying some lines I've never tried before cause I became a little frustrated on my other projects. So expectations were quite low and I was able to be as relaxed as possible while bouldering. All ascents were super rewarding, but most of all "Airbus" because it's so rarely repeated and I love reactivating old and forgotten lines!"

 
 
Crowbar 8B+ by Moritz Perwitzschky (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Perwitzschky, #5 in the Combined ranking, has done Crowbar 8B+ in Frankenjura in winter conditions.

"10 moves of steep roof climbing, five tension moves (7B) lead to the crux move, far span from a quite good hold to a slopy pocket, after that still tension climbing with a toehook for 4 more moves, I fell four times on the last hard move cause of loosing the tension.

For me personally it gets hard to get and stay warm if it's colder than - 5°. If it's below 0° for me warm clothes and gloves are enough and probably boulders with less than 10 moves are a better choice. You also get used to it quite fast actually."

 
 
How they filmed Alex Honnold Free Solo  Facebook
 

 
 
Moritz Welt ten days in Ticino  Facebook
 

 
 
Alex Honnold interview  Facebook
 

 
 
Felipe Camargo doing Gancho Perfecto 9a+  Facebook
 

 
 
Heiko Queitsch sending up to -25 degrees  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureHeiko Queitsch, #1 highest ranked in the 8a Gallery with also eight pics Top-20, enjoys bouldering during the winter. In the first pic by Tobias Plail he does Lego Technik direkt 8A in -14 without hand warmers or any special trick when he is out there. "Little Warming up.. .jumping, running, and easy moves.

In the second pic by Frank Kretschmann he is doing the FA of Claude Monet 8A+. His coldest ascent was done in -25 degrees.

"Basically I enjoy the peaceful atmosphere in the snow-covered forest. The conditions are often better in winter, since the rock is drier then, and the skin harder. Those crisp conditions allow me to climb moves that I can’t even dream of doing in summer or in warmer conditions.

Before I approach my current project, I warm up at my indoor wall at home. It takes truly warm boots, a proper duvet jacket and lots of hot tea to keep the body warm in the freezing cold. Best, however, is a bunch of good friends crazy and motivated enough to go out into the cold, too. A great advantage is that it takes a lot to make me feel cold, at least minus 20°. I have, however, become “softer” than I used to be."

 
 
Shawn Raboutou FA of Off the Wagon sit 8C+  Facebook
 

 
 
La Sportiva Climbing Reboot  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLa Sportiva celebrates its 90th anniversary with a reboot of its climbing line: there are 5 classic models involved in the modernization operation with more modern designs and aesthetic solutions in line with the times. Make way then for the new versions of Miura, Futura, Cobra, Katana and Solution!

 
 
Introducing 100 000 kids to climb  Facebook
 

 
 
What to expect of 2019  Facebook
 

The Olympic qualification will be at focus during 2019. Many of the best athletes like Adam Ondra will most likely reduce their climbing on rock and instead replace it with competition training including Speed.

During the last years, Japan has started to dominate and that goes especially on the bouldering scene. The dilemma in 2019 is that it is all about Combination and only the best male and female Japanese in the World Champion in Tokyo are guaranteed a position, as long as they are Top-6. This means that the overall World Cup is not so important for the best Japanese so they might cherry pick which comps to go for. This in fact opens up for specialist, who is not going for Tokyo, to win the overall World Cups, especially among the male. However, in general most likely to trend with more Japanese domination will increase in 2019.

When it comes to route climbing, there will most likely be a stagnation, after the record year 2018, as most of the best focus on Tokyo. In regards bouldering, 2018 was also a record year and 2019 has indeed strengthen this progress trend with Charles Albert doing a 9A FA barefoot and Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods and Nalle Hukkataival doing 8C+. Charles and Jimmy are working on two other possibly 9A projects in Fontainebleau and Daniel is going for Burden of Dreams 9A this spring. In total, there will probably be around ten guys doing at least one 8C+ or harder in 2019.

At the same time, the female level continues to raise and possibly ten girls, including 13 year old Oriane Bertone, just might do 8B+ or harder.

 
 
 
Bombero de la Roca 7a+ in Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done two impressive FAs in Camaiore; La Terza Eta 9a which he did in four tries and Naturalmente 9a+.

"One of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say."

The level is going up in 2017 and Ondra is leading the pack. During four days, the 23 year old has done two 9b's, two 9a+' and two 9a's. It will be interesting to follow the progression during 2017.

 
 
Pau Contreras en Wonder boy (8b) FA, Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
Rescat Emocional (7b+), Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

 
 
Hungry Monkeys in Railay  Facebook
 


Hungry Monkeys from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

 
 
Tredje 8a av Olof Morsing (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing, som togs ut till J-landslaget efter att ha kommit #19 på Europacupen i Imst, har gjort sin tredje 8a, Musen i Vikskile och dagen innan gjordes Trettio-åriga kriget 7c+. Tidigare i år så har 14-åringen onsightat sju 7c. Bilden är från Träleberget 2015 av Olof Hedberg.

 
 
Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

 
 
8b av Hannes Puman på Örnberget  Facebook
 

Hannes Puman har gjort Breaking the lwa 8b på Örnberget. "I spöregn och åska. Spännande. Använde inte enfingerspocketen."

För två år sedan blev Hannes juniorvärldsmästare och förra året junioreuropmästare. Första tävlingen på Världscupen i år är Briancon 23-24 juli.

 
 
Mer renoveringsbultning i Stockholm  Facebook
 

Stockholms Klätterförbund rapporterar att man har bultat om och lagt till bultar samt rensat Anneberg som är en av de mest tillgängliga klipporna i Stockholm. Trenden med att lägga till bultar på lätta old-school leder för att göra de mindre farliga fortsätter i hela Sverige.

Säkerhetskommitten har vidare fått i uppdrag att skriva om den nationella bultpolicyn baserat på en motion till förbundsmötet.

 
 
Två 8c i Flatanger och Två 8A (+) i Västervik av Hannes  Facebook
 

Hannes Puman, som precis har tagit körkort, tog först bilen till Västervik och satte två 8A (+), So I Fly och Animal Act. Sen bar det iväg till Flatanger där två 8c gjordes, Muy Verdes och The Valkyrie.

Nästa resa sker med flyg till Warsawa för att tävla på Europacupen i Bouldering till helgen. Man kan tycka att köra 30 meters takturer inte är bästa förberedelserna för en bouldertävling men Lead är fokuset för J-Världsmästaren även i år.

 
 
9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti."

In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

 
 
8b onsight av Erik Grandelius i Norge  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureErik Grandelius har onsightat Slettakraft extension 8b i Slettafossen vilket är en, "Link-up of 7c into 8a+." Sista månaden har han även onsightat ytterligare tre 8a i Norge. (c) Paula Voldner

- Var i romsdalen för att göra lätta fjällturer men han få in lite sport på vilodagarna :) Vi klättrade bland annat Romsdalshorn 5+, (c) Paula Voldner, och Mongjura 25 replängder 6+. Nu är jag i Flatanger med ambition att göra Brunnhilde 8c.

 
 
Fem 7c onsight av Olof Morsing (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing är nu uppe i fem 7c onsight på Kalymnos inklusive den ansett hårda Aegialis. Förra året så var perset fem 7a+ och en 7b+ onsight så utveck- lingen går mycket snabbt 14- åringen.

 
 
8b+ av Kristoffer Lindbäck i Niemisel  (3) Facebook
 

Kristoffer Lindbäck har gjort sin första 8b+, När Lammen Tystnar i Niemisel. Tidigare i vintras kom han #4 på SM i Lead och det var hans första leadtävling. Supertalangen som numera tränas av förbundskaptenen har bara klättrat i fem år då han slutade fotbollsgymnasiet.

 
 
Två 7c onsight av Olof Morsing (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing, som precis har tagits ut till J-landslaget efter att ha kommit #18 i Europacupen i Imst, har onsightat Hogo Fogo och Neolitic Line på Kalymnos. Sammanlagt har 14-åringen onsightat fyra 7c i vår så vi pratar ny svensk talang med grym utvecklingskurva.

 
 
Ungdomsläger i Lysekil nästa helg  Facebook
 

Lysekils KK bjuder in till Ungdomsläger nästa helg med start på lördag kl 10.00 vid Trellebystrands Camping. Man vänder sig till 9 till 13 åringar som klättrar dock krävs ingen utomhuserfarenhet. Kostnaden är 0 kr men man måste vara medlem i Lysekils KK som kostar 130 kr. Ledarna är bland annat två erfarna 16-åriga tjejer.

 
 
Close to 6 000 crags in the database  Facebook
 

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

 
 
Jon Cardwell has done Biographie 9a+: Interview!  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who did his first 9a in 2008, has done his long-term project, Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. It was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Chris Sharma made the FA in 2001. Biographie has seen 13 ascents to date, which makes it the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Carlo Traversi

Check out Jon's comments for his nicest journey that took ten years and included 75 tries.

- Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"

 
 
Mycket lyckat J-SM på Klätterdomen  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDet rapporteras om ett mycket välorganiserat och uppskattat J-SM på perfekt utslagsgivande leder i både kval och final, arrangerat av Kvibergs KK, Kolla videos. Barnen som topprepstävlade och fick prova olika grenar inom klättersporten njöt i fulla muggar.

97: Fredrik Serlachius
99: Nea Herforth & Ymer Alber, se bild
01: Olof Morsing & Ella Kallas
03: Sofie Asterling & Dennis Yakubenko
05: Linda Asterling & Simon Borgh

Kvibergs KK tog tre guld och bland pojkar 01 var fyra av de fem bästa från arrangörsklubben. I de två yngsta tjejklasserna var de fyra bästa från hemmaklubben. Det enda tråkiga på J-SM var det låga deltagarantalet och var sammanlagt bara två i de äldsta klasserna. Vidare sammanlagt bara sju i de tre äldsta tjejklasserna. Största klasserna var i barnklasserna med deltagare från fem år.

 
 
Megos lovordar Västervik igen  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos som numera delvis är bosatt i Stockholm har återigen besökt Västervik som han lovordar på Facebook.

"Back again in ‪#‎västervik‬ after the first trip 3 weeks ago. This place keeps surprising me! Went to a @nk_ceria problem called "Primitiv" 8A+ and probably got the first repeat(?!) as well as a flash of "Pro2" 8A and Golden Path Low" 8A/+ and a send of "Animal Act" 8A+."

Med tanke på att flera ledande bouldrare har ifrågasatt dagens grader i Västervik kan man notera att Megos under sina två resor till Västervik har bekräftat alla grader.

 
 
8C after driving 7 000 km by Tamás Zupán  (17) Facebook
 

Tamás Zupán has set a new record of dedication by doing his second 8C, Zunami in Saalachtal, driving 7 000 kilometers to reach his goal.

- I was there with my friend in the middle of March and I climbed some boulders in the lower sector and I tried Gizmo 8B, which is a variant of Zunami. I live 600 km far from Saalachtal and I could travel there only on Wednesdays because of my work. I woke up at 4:30 a.m., started my journey from home at 5 a.m. and I came in Saalachtal at 11 a.m. I climbed until 2 p.m. and I arrived at 8 p.m. I climbed ’Gizmo’ on the second trip and finally I could manage ’Zunami’ on my 6th trip.

The first move is incredible complex because in the same time you should move separately your all limbs when make the crossing movement, after it is really crimpy, overhanging and that’s why I really liked it.

 
 
Fucking far from OK 8a+ av Max Boholm  (2) Facebook
 

Max Boholm, gammal juniorlandslagsman, kan sägas vara något av en late bloomer och verkar 20 år senare som 34-åring vara i sitt livs form. Idag gjordes Fucking far from OK, 8a+ i Vikskile. Hemligheten var uppvärmning på greppbräda i 20 minuter vid halv nio på morgonen. En annan förklaring till sista halvårets peak kan vara salvan han sätter på fingertopparna - Antihydral.

Väl uppe i Vikskile så klättrades en 10 meter 6b, lammet och därefter sändes leden som Yuji Hirayama satte upp i mitten på 90-talet. Därefter testade Max Hingsten 8a+ och den bör gå snabbt.

 
 
Årets äventyrare intervjuad  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFreedom travel har intervjuat Said Belhaj i samband till att han blev utsedd till årets klättrare. Bild Terje Aamodt.

- Jag är född -81 i Mölndal utanför Göteborg. Min far är från Marocko och min mor från Finland och jag talar 6 språk flytande. Jag har klättrat i 25 år, varav 15 professionellt. Jag har också spelat musik i hela mitt liv, numer med fokus på musik från Nord- och Västafrika, och spelar med olika musiker och artister runt hela världen. Dessutom är jag fotograf.

Jag började klättra i berg i början av 90-talet för att jag älskade klättring. Jag visste inte vad bergsklättring var, kände inga klättrare, det fanns knappt någon info på den tiden osv men en näst intill besatt passion har lett mig till var jag är idag.

 
 
7C av Anja Hodann (38)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnja Hodann har gjort Tjing Tjong 7C i Orminge. Tidigare har hon gjort tre 8A och den sista 2012. 2006 var Anja #8 på Världscupen efter att en gång stått på prispallen. Sammanlagt gör detta Anja till den mest framgångsrika svenska bouldrare. Här tävlar hon på Ninja Warriors.

 
 
En av de bästa boulderdagarna någonsin för Megos i Västervik  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"What a day!!! ‪#‎västervikclimbing‬ at it's finest! Got the classics-tour with @slacker12 and managed to flash "Dillerium" 8A and "David and Goliath" 8A+ and got the first repeat of "Mechanical Bull" 8B. As well on the tick lost today were "Go all day sit" 8A, "D+P Combo" 8B, "Namaste" 8A+, "By the Book" 8A+ and "Celtic Warrior" 8A. So I had one of my best bouldering days ever!!! Psyched for more tomorrow!" (c) Daniela Ebler

 
 
8a+ av Johan Luhr (54)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJohan Luhr satte upp Stairway to Heaven på Örnberget 1996 vilket då som 8a+ var en av de svåraste lederna i Sverige. Igår gjorde han den igen som 54-åring. Målet med säsongen är att göra minst en 8b+.

"Känns mer som 8b när steget på läppen försvunnit ! 2 snäpp svårare än I´ll be back."

 
 
Megos lovordar Västervik  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"BLOWN AWAY from Swedish bouldering! Went to #västervik today and got shown around by the guidebook authors @slacker12 and Jim Wasmuth. Climbed the classics "The Hourglass" 8B and "The Office" 8A this afternoon. Picture is from the combination "Night Shift" 8A+. Can't wait to go out again tomorrow!!!" (c) Daniela Ebler

 
 
8b igen av Stefan Wulf (45)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Wulf är på en tre veckors trip till Siurana som har startat bra med en 8b, Tres Tristes Triceps.

- Planen var att testa en 8c. Men det blev istället en led som jag spanat in på en tidigare resa. Ca 40m lång med ett för min del extremt hårt bouldercrux i mitten. Trodde den skulle gå ner fortare men fick kämpa 4 dagar för att ta mig förbi sista cruxflyttet. Nu bara några dagar kvar på resan med att beta av några st fina 8a'n

 
 
7C av Daniela Ebler  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniela Ebler berättar om sin första 7C på Instagram,

"Sunes Sommar Assis, 7c.
Checked this problem out about 2-3 years ago, came back yesterday and wanted to give the stand start a go. Did it first try, so decided to try the sit start. And what do you know, that also worked on the first go! My first 7c!

 
 
8b onsight by Laura Rogora (14) and one more today  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who just did her first 9a, has onsighted Batuka 8b in Margalef and she put up all the draws by herself. Batuka has been recorded 57 times in the data base, all with 8b and only two guys have onsighted it before.

- The route is divided in two sections with a very good rest in the middle. The first four bolt are hard and I thought to fall every move. The second part is easier but there is another hard move. Today was the first day of the trip. In this week I would like to visit new crags: Santa Linya, Rodellar...

Today the 14-year-old onsighted Codigo Norte, an 8b in Santa Linya. "I'm staying here just for one week so I think I will climb only onsight."

 
 
Bouldervärldscupen startar utan svenskar  (2) Facebook
 

Boulderväldscupen startar till helgen i Schweiz och på anmälningslistan finns det 142 deltagare från 30 länder men inga svenskar. Förbundskaptenen Reino Horak förklarar att visst intresse finns men det är svårt för de aktiva då det inte finns några nationella svenska tävlingar att träna på.

Om två veckor avgörs NM i Bouldering i Danmark, dit ett dussintal svenskar inkl juniorer har anmält intresse. Förhoppningsvis får vi svenska framgångar och några som blir peppade på att tävla internationellt. Annars är dock planen att ett par juniorer ska pröva lyckan på en Bouldervärldscup i sommar säger Horak.

 
 
8a av Olof Morsing och Marcus Gillberg  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing har varit på Kvibergs KK årliga vårresa till Margalef och passade på att göra sina första två 8a; Dr Feelgood and Transilvania. Vidare sattes de två första 7c onsighten så den hårda vinterträningen har burit frukt. Första tävlingen går på lördag i Eskilstuna och sen i maj så blir det först J-SM och sedan Europacupen i Imst. På bilden även Marcus Gillberg som även han fick ihop en 8a och både tillhör J-landslagets träningsgrupp. Olof komenterar.

- Transilvania jobbade vi på en eftermiddag sen sände jag och Marcus den på morgonen dagen efter. Dr Feelgood hängde jag igenom två gånger sen klättrade jag den. Leden passade nog mig väldigt bra. Målet I år är främst att det ska gå bra i Europa cupen, men det skall nog hinnas klättras ute en del i sommar också.

 
 
Anak Verhoeven (19) makes the FA of Ma belle ma muse 9a  (1) Facebook
 

Anak Verhoeven, who was #4 in the Lead World Cup last year, has done her second 9a, the FA of Me belle ma muse in Romeyer.



Just later, it was repeated by Jean-Elie Crestin-Billet and here is his video. Jean-Elie actually called it an 8c+/9a.

 
 
Kajsa Rosén (18) - A new star in the making  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKajsa Rosén, who did her first 8c and flashed an 8b+ last week, has done Mind Control 8c (+) and onsighted T-1 Full Equipe in Oliana. There is only a handful of female who have onsighted at this level before. "What to do next? Still suprising myself here in Oliana."

Last year, the 18-year-old was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

Loic Timmermans, who is still ahead of Kajsa with one 9a, reachead out to 8a with a nice reflection.

"Kasja is crushing all the routes she's trying like nothing. I was even more impressed when she told me she did Mind control without getting pumped. I think she has a good attitude to. Not taking things too seriously, just climbing and see what happens.

 
 
Two 8c (+) OS and a 9a+/b by Adam Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has had a great weekend. First he did the FA of Vicious Circle 9a+/b in Osp/Misja Pec, which he bolted last year. (c) Luka Fonda

"Left start into Sanski par. Bouldery and short 8c+ into the most of the Sanski par 9a (without first six moves). I would say two 8c+'s with a bad rest in between. Super powerful and resistant climbing.

The next stop was Medveja, a new secret zone in Croatia. It was one of the best days of climbing ever as I onsighted two 8c's ('The Core' is considered 8c+ by those few, who repeated the route) and the first ascent of 'More', 9a. World record maybe? Haha.

Most of the routes are slightly overhanging, crimpy on super solid rock with a minimum of Sika and in general fitting my style pretty well.

The last day I tried a project in Pandora, a different zone in Istria, which is definitely pretty hard in the region of 9b or more. Something like 20m of bouldering in the roof. Definitely a lot of rock around there worth returning for."

 
 
8B (+) flash by James Webb again  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has traveled to Finland to take part in Sisu Masters with an amazing line up including Daniel Woods and Dave Graham but also to try Nalle Hukkataival's Boulders. First they had to crush some ice on the top of the Globalist in Sipoo and then James just flashed it and gave it a personal grade of 8B. The best flash boulderer in the world has now flashed 13 8B Boulders, four out of which were originally graded 8B+. (c) Nico Backström

"Absolutely incredible boulder from Nalle that I've wanted to climb on for so long. Perfect rock, amazing movement. One of the best!"

Next up could be Hukkataival's famous Sisu or Lappnor Project that the Fin has been trying for six respectively four years speculating that it could become the next level.

 
 
8b+ flash and a 8c by Kajsa Rosén (18)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSimon Carter, a professional climbing photographer for 25 years, reports on Facebook:

"I've seen a lot of really impressive climbing over all the time I've spent at Oliana over the years... and add to that today's jaw-dropping sends by 18 year-old Swedish climber Kajsa Rosen. First up she hiked Fisheye (8c) first shot (after only working it twice yesterday), for her first of the grade, and THEN casually flashed Los Humildes pa Casa (8b+) soon after (pictured). Kajsa Rosen; a name to watch out for for sure!"

Simon is spot-on as the young Swede has had an extreme development over the last few years. In the past year, she was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

So how much beta did you get and do you still plan to get yourself a station wagon and hit the road?
I saw a french guy climbing it and he told me about a knee bar. I heard some screaming from below but it was very windy. My plan is to do some comps and some rock climbing and have fun. I graduate this year so hopefully I will have some more time for climbing.

 
 
Erik Grandelius gör 12 boulders 8A och hårdare  Facebook
 

Erik Grandelius har varit på roadtrip i en månad med Benjamin "Tumle" Linne Ryn och gjort 12 boulders 8A och hårdare inklusive Amber i Brione som han gav en personlig grad på 8A+. Dessutom flashade han Kirk Windstein i Cresciano som han graderade till 8A.

"Det flesta problemen gick ner rätt snabbt. Jag har inte kunnat bouldra ordentligt senaste två åren pga en fingerskada, men nu är det bra. Vi hade även ca 1 meter snö när vi kom till Brione, så vi klättrade på det som var torrt. Det var även kul att göra c'etait demain i fontan, världens första 8A, video.

Alltid kul att klättra med Tumle, vi är på samma nivå men har olika styrkor och svagheter. Tumle flashade Cellar Door 8A.

 
 
8C by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (21) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureReel Rock Film Tour comes with the amazing news that Ashima Shiraishi has made the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's spectacular Horizon 8C, in Hiei, Japan. The 14-year-old worked on the 30 move long roof problem in December and now she has done it on her third day, which means she is the first female and the youngest climber ever to have reached 8C. Here you can find Dai's comment on his FA including a picture where you see that it is almost a horizontal roof.

- "No doubt the Super Project was the hardest problem I’'ve ever done and that probably means it’s a V16 (8C+). However, I’'m not quite sure because I don’t have enough references to compare with. I would be able to fully understand what V15 (8C) is like exactly if I did more than fifty or so of them, but my accomplishments don’t even come close to that."

Based on Ashima's Route and Boulder ticklist, she has been the world's best female rock climber since she was 12 years old. Among the male, she is currently in the Top-20 including also having done two 9a's last autumn. How many 14-year-old girls are able to compete with the best male in any sport? (c) Brett Lowell

 
 
Janvid och Duncan vinner 100 %  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture100 % på Klätterverket samlade 50 deltagare och här är prispallen. På bilden Björn Alber.

1. Vincent Janvid - Freja Duncan
2. Per Holm - Eugenia Bolander
3. Viktor Elofsson - Linda Hammarström
Kompletta resultat

 
 
8C by Ryuichi Murai incl amazing 240 spin  (3) Facebook
 

Ryuichi Murai , who two weeks ago did two 8B+, has done Dai Koyamada's Babel 8C in Shiobara. "This problem links Catharsis(8B+) to Hydra(8B) via Uma(8B+). About 30 moves that include various moves made me enjoy myself."

Totally amazing! Watch that mind-boggling sequence where the 167 cm tall spins 240 degrees with his foot. How is it even possible to find such solution :)

 
 
8a (7c+) onsight av Axel Hultqvist  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAxel Hultqvist är på klättersemester på Sardinen och har onsightat Wonderland i Isili som han ger en personlig 7c+ grad. (c) Johan Ragnarsson

"Isili var ett riktigt grymt ställe, bra klättring och bra mat men inte mycket mer. Fick tre klätterdagar där och nu har vi kommit till Cala gonone. Isili är ett resmål jag definitivt kommer komma tillbaka till överhängande klättring på bra grepp, lite inomhuskänsla. Krävs att man har kört några laps på kedväggarna innan man åker hit.

Onsightpresset gick bra men blev sjukt pumpad, sista presset för dagen. Hade åkt av en 7c+ onsight på förmiddagen på grund av lite fuktigt grepp från regnet under natten och sedan hade jag kört lite andra leder innan vi gick tillbaka och jag fick slita mig upp för leden.

 
 
Stella och Axel vinner #2 GBG Bouldercup  Facebook
 

Stella Plantin och Axel Hulqvist vann den andra deltävlingen i Göteborgs Bouldercup som avgjordes i lördags på Klätterlabbet. Magnus Högström onsightade även han alla problem med blev placerad två pga sämre kvalresultat. Sista deltävlingen på Klätterdomen går den 18 mars och sedan gör de 8 bästa i varje klass gör upp i finalen på Klätterfabriken den 8 april. Kompletta resultat

 
 
Laura Rogora (14) does her first 9a  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora has become the first Italian female to do a 9a by Grandi Gesti in Sperlonga, which is a 20 meter long roof link up. Last year the 14-year-old won both Lead and Boulder Italian Championships and to make the story even more amazing, she mainly just trains in a Bouldering gym. She is #1 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Stefano Michelin/UP-Climbing

- It took me about 15-20 tries in one month and half. I went to Sperlonga seven times. I didn't do a specific training for this route because my purpose is training for competition. Now I need going to train hard for competition especially for the world youth championship in China in November. Surely I will continue to climb on the rock. I planned a trip to Spain in April I think I will climb on sight.

 
 
Träning, Tävling och Sabbatsår för Hannes  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHannes Puman (18), Sveriges bäste manlige tävlingsklättrare de sista åren, kommenterar sin sista 8A+, Optimal på Graveyard-blocken alldeles utanför Eskilstuna.

Berätta lite om din nya 8A+ FA. Får du ens köra så hårt enligt Nickis träningsprogram och hur lång tid tog det och vad är det för område?

- Jag kör grundträning, men i den så är det mycket styrka så det känns ganska bra att bouldra. Jag var där 3 gånger och körde men första gången så borstade jag typ bara. Det tar ungefär 10 min att åka från stan och det finns relativt många block där, annars brukar det bara vara några enstaka block här och där runt Eskilstuna.

Vad har du för planer 2016?
Tar studenten i år så första halvåret blir det hård träning och tävling...sen hoppas jag främst på att bara resa runt och klättra i ett år :)

 
 
Mowgli repeats his 8B+ (C) twice after just a short warm up  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCharles Albert, who did the FA of the L'Alchimiste left exit last week, considered to be harder than the 8C right exit, did it today twice. (c) Neil Hart did get it on video both times.

"He is so strong he made it look like a 6A. I picked him up at one o'clock and we did a very quick 7B that took two tries and we drove to the L'alchimiste. He just pulled on and fell three times on the crux then sent it, then climbed it again so we could get another angle.

It is easier for him bare foot because he can hook his toes into the side pulls better. Definitely a new level!"

 
 
Women are catching up in the Santa Linya caves  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSome ten years ago, several men - notably Dani Andrada, Patxi Usobiaga and Chris Sharma - broke through to the next grading level establishing several 9a's and 9a+'s in Santa Linya. As of 2016, however, it seems that progress has become stagnant with Chris Sharma's two 9b FAs representing the highest attainable level.

Women, in the mean time, have caught up, in 2010 Angela Eiter did the first female 8c in Santa Linya. Quickly thereafter other women have followed suit with ten other females having completed climbs ranging from 8c to 9a(+) over the last two years. Complete stats. In this great picture captured by Luka Fonda, Janja Garnbret (16) flashes La Fabelita 8c.

If the trend continues, it is only a matter of time before women are on par with men in Santa Linya. While impossible to know for certain, one of the reasons behind such phenomenal progress for women may lie in the nature of the climbing in the cave where technical skill and endurance are of vital importance. That, and the fact that these ten women - and the many who will follow - are testaments of climbing strength and power.

 
 
Charles Albert interview  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic Climbing has made an interview with Charles Albert, who did an 8C yesterday, giving it a personal grade of 8B+. The interesting fact is that the 18-year-old seldom trains indoor and the only training he does beside Bouldering is stretching. (c) Neil Hart

"Yesterday I was climbing alone without pads and luckily I met Kevin Thibaut and Mounir (strong but low profile Font locals) who were trying it. I joined them and I managed to send it on my first real session trying the left version. Regarding the grade, I would say for me it’s not harder than “Gecko assis”, the 8B+ I did barefoot last year… I also tried the sit start of “Alchimiste” which adds an easy but beautiful move but doesn’t change the difficulty. I have not done the sit-start version but will come back and try sending the whole thing because it makes the line even more beautiful !"

 
 
"A 14-year-old girl redefines rock climbing"  (6) Facebook
 

BBC has made an interview with Ashima Shiraishi, where, among other things, she says her goal is to break records held by her male counterparts. The 14-year-old claims to be the only female to have done a 9a+ (Direct open your mind R1 in Santa Linya) and the youngest person to have reached that grade.

It should be noticed that the route was originally a 9a until some holds broke and it was speculated that it might be a 9a+. Later Edu Marin repeated it saying it is still a 9a. The first woman to claim having done a 9a+ route was Josune Bereziartu (route: Bimbaluna), which has been subject of being downgraded.

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