14 October 2014

The holistic interactive training approach

"It is about balancing all things out and working hard, for a long term progress. Motivation, having fun and being creative are most important and I am not fan of strict systematic programs where you should doing fixed seconds on a hang board. Sure we sometimes do hang board excercises and we have a general plan but it can always be changed based on current feelings and almost half of Megos training is non-climbing excercises." Dicki Korb talks about his training philosophy that has been in a constant development for eight years when he started to train Alex Megos. Together with Patrick Matros, last year they published the book, Gimme Kraft which has sold in 15 000 copies. "To meet and interact with athletes are what makes training so fun and motivating. Dicki says that Patrick is the "brain" behind the trainíng excercises and here is Patrick's 8a training article from last year. "I am a social worker and more of a practical person interested in the mental aspect of climbing. If you are not feeling good in your life, you can not perform at your top level." Talking with Dicki about youngsters dedication for progress, he says that it is a problem especially when it comes to injuries. "Kids often train to hard and want short term progress. We have deliberetely hold back Alex and why should he go for redpointing when he instead can do many routes up to 9a quickly?" Alex just recently made a new "world record" hanging on the newly developed Zlagboard but asking for specific finger strength training advices, Dicki says they mainly climb and that, "Alex trains always without thumb on the hang board but do not focus on this to much in your article. Climbing is so much more than just finger strength and it is easily forgotten. Check out the ocean view! Well being is what we should focus more on." If you are interested in trainings workshops around the world and coachings feel free to contact them; [email protected]
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