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Forum: SWE / News / Schubert wins, on count back, Austria's second gold Login in to contribute
Schubert wins, on count back, Austria's second gold
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-09-09 00:00:00    
Jakob Schubert, World Champion in 2012, gets his second title ahead of his home crowd in Innsbruck. Adam Ondra reached the same hold but was ranked second due to worse result in the semi. The route was spectacular in 3D style but these two seemed to be in control all the way. Alex Megos did also master all the early technical difficulties falling three moves below. Complete results. (c) Johann Groder - Innsbruck2018.com

Interesting is that no climber used more than 3.40 minutes before they did fall. Further more, it seemed on the replay that Ondra did fell due to hold 37 was partly blocked meaning he did not hit the sweet spot on the hold.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine J. Smith
  2018-09-09 21:56:57    
Maybe it's time to comment the twisted IFSC logic through both lead events  in Innsbruck. Because of "on rope boulder" setting in lead, we see more ties. We had twice 10 finalists. In normal situation we would have 8 and with 8 minute limit they would in theory spend the same amount of time. Climbers are under the pressure of time and the quality of climbing is lower. Male climbers were on the stage less 3:40 minutes. Each boulder finalist is visible for 16 minutes. Without the watch lead was enjoyable for climbers and spectators. It was a unique relaxing sport.  Another problem is fair-play. With 10 or even more finalists in a hot and humid place the last competitors don't have comparable conditions.  In boulders only 6 finalists compete and they can clean the holds!!! Maybe somebody remembers the fast growth of snowboarding. After stacking it into commercial box the growth rapidly stopped and today it's much less popular. 
OffLine Bojan
  2018-09-10 12:55:11    
Some quick thoughts:
-- hard semis made a difference between the favorites and good chanced to not see a 'speed' final again
-- brutal final route, with no real rests made a sub 4min climbing time in relatively short 15m wall. No one came even close to the top, but this is much better than too easy route, several tops and time to decide the rankings
-- Jakob comfirmed his excellent form throughout this season both in semi and the final
-- Adam sixth medal on his sixth worlds. Once again he showed his excellent strength, even though he recently missed almost all the comps and a long plastic training. Failed his third consecutive world title on a countback (after 'mistake' in hard to reed semi's crux, which made several ties, incl. his commpatriot, a pleasant surprise, 19 yrs old Jakub Konecny)
-- Megos has maybe even more fitness then others, but probably miss some experience after a long plastic/comp break
-- Domen has shown his ability in semis, but failed so in final after clipping fault.
-- Japanease surely don't lack 'boulder fitness' but probably some endurance and technique in lead.
OffLine Christoph Barthel
  2018-09-10 13:44:56    
Good analysis Bojan :)
Second that!
OffLine Tom Thudium
  2018-09-10 16:19:47    
Think the final was really good setting. Probs. Good results interesting moves. Nobody can predict that Ondra hits the hold wrong and unfortunally Alex read the final section not right. Think it's way better to have no tops than multiple. Semis had one inhomogenous section (maxbe too hard to read as well). Only downpoint is the majority of the cheetah holds always. Its boring to have always the same holds and furthermore the quality is not so good and they loose a lot of friction (guess that was a problem in semis as well).