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Forum: SWE / News / All favorites but Megos and Sugimoto did make semi Login in to contribute
All favorites but Megos and Sugimoto did make semi
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-09-12 00:00:00    
The male Boulder qualification got a perfect start at 9.00 where most boulders were topped including five by both Tomoa Narasaki and Jongwon Chon. Jernej Kruder won his group with four tops showing that it is also great to prepare outdoors. As time progressed we saw, especially in Group B, less tops and both Jakob Schubert and Alex Megos failed to make it into the semifinal doing just one top.

Adam Ondra entered the stage at 13.35 when it was 28 degrees in the shadow, in comparison to 18 degrees at 9.00. The sun had hit part of the walls but anyhow the Czech delivered and was #4 in Group B.

During the last hour, very few did get any zones apart from the last boulder which all but three out of the 150 participants did. Domen Skofic was #41 based on doing four zones. Overall, Japan was best with five guys Top-13. Russia, Great Britain and France did get two respectively into the semifinal. Complete results.
OffLine frank krane
  2018-09-12 16:43:52    
Does anyone know if somewhere a provisional combined result is available? I don't want to spend half an hour to calculate it ...

Found it:
https://wettkampf.austriaclimbing.com/kvoe/rk_ergebnis.php?idklasse=12&idbewerb=2107&rgsort=1
OffLine Bojan
  2018-09-12 17:05:11    
>... and Alex Megos failed to make it into the semifinal doing just one top.

3 tops and 4 zones (place #25).

>Overall, Japan was best with five guys Top-13. Russia, Great Britain and France did get two respectively into the semifinal.

And Slovenia.
OffLine John Render
  2018-09-12 18:56:25    
Schubert failed to make semis? The IFSC webpage shows him in 10th place in his group, and tied for 19th overall. That puts him in the semis as far as I know.

Also, Marcus Nimrod of Israel not only made 4 zones in the last hour. He topped three problems, which landed him in the semis, tied for 15th with Jan Hojer.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-12 19:01:23    
Originally Schubert was out but later an Austrian protest made him advance to #10.
OffLine red swine
  2018-09-12 22:13:03    
Timonov's attempt at B2 is at 4:23:00, not 1:13:30.
Thanks for an hour of skipping...
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-12 22:27:07    
Thanks... that was strange, I got a tip saying it was 1.13 something and found it but now when looking for it is 4.23 as you say?
OffLine ckarypidis
  2018-09-12 23:59:50    
Given what people have commented here, you may need to rewrite the original post.

"Russia, Great Britain and France did get two respectively into the semifinal."
No "respectively" needed.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-13 06:28:02    
The news was edited directly. In the forum you see the original post which can not be changed.
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2018-09-13 08:51:49    
As usual the headline does not make sense. Did he (Megos) or did he not make semi?
OnLine dreamingof8a
  2018-09-13 09:03:18    
All favorites but Megos = all favorites except Megos

The English is correct and makes perfect sense.
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-09-13 09:27:09    
I'll travel back in time and have some notes regarding Adam Ondra's lead performance :) In semifinals he didn't have time to prepare because of Francesco Vettorata (climber preceding Adam Ondra) fell very early. That affected his semis performance. Another thing in semis was foot slip, that could influence Adam's performance wrong way too. I don't think he had wrong beta there as someone previously stated. In finals he was his usual strong himself, I even dare to say strongest because he surealy was closer to hold that final hold than Jakob Schubert. But Adam placed his right foot to low and could not hold the next hold. That was wrong beta.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-13 09:37:31    
Please look at the video and you will see that Ondra did fall in Lead due to not hitting the sweet spot of the hold. Where he grabbed it, the hold was blocked with a little micro and he had no time to adjust. Possibly it would have been better to use another foot hold higher up but the reason for his fall was the blocked hold.
OffLine frank krane
  2018-09-13 10:40:10    
Timonov's best attempt at B2 is at 4:23:00 and not 4:23:30. He did two good attempts in a row, but the first was better.
I'm not a judge, but I would have scored the zone.
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-09-15 12:46:04    
@Jens I am no sure whether you are talking to me. If so, I wonder why are you telling that to me? :) Again same old Jens, biased as hell :)