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Forum: SWE / News / Schubert and Garnbret win in Arco Login in to contribute
Schubert and Garnbret win in Arco
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-07-28 00:00:00    
Janja Garnbret got her 13th World Cup victory in Arco. In the last 15 Lead and Bouldering World Cups she has entered, her worst result is bronze and she has won ten. Among the male, Jakob Schubert got his 19th Lead victory. The route setting was not at it's best as the best male just came two thirds of the route and for the female, time was an issue. At the same time, it should be mentioned that the route setting was perfect in both the qually and the semi.

1. Jakob Schubert - Janja Garnbret
2. Stefano Ghisolfi - Jessica Pilz
3. Domen Skofic - Anak Verhoeven
4. Adam Ondra - Claire Buhrfeind
5. Shuta Tanaka - Helene Janicot
Complete results

On the picture (c) Eddie Fowke, Claire Buhrfeind (19), who with 8.90 is the fastest speed climber of the non-speed specialists. In 2018, she has also been #18 in bouldering. The other #4, Adam Ondra, did just come back from one month rock climbing trip in Canada and did use the comp as his first preparation for the World Championship in Innsbruck in September.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine J. Smith
  2018-07-29 12:25:32    
Without the stupid 6 minutes rule, we would have almost perfect finals for women. Maybe we would also see the top. It would maybe take additional 2 minutes. Unfortunately idiots running IFSC can't understand that. 
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-07-29 14:35:07    
There are both advantages and disadvantages with the 6 min rule. Previously in 2018, it has worked good and it was clear that the routes with 60+ moves were too long.

I think it is very important that the climbers get info about the time so they can hurry up. I am sure, such info had been very helpful.
OffLine The Whistleblower 5
  2018-07-29 15:18:07    
No podium places for team Japan, again.
OffLine Endre Verden
  2018-07-29 22:07:13    
Time Time Time Time Time Time Time Time
It's all they talk about, and of course that it's easier for longer climbers.
That's why we don't see any really tall people, because they are per default cheating and banned from the competing. They've just conspired to hide the dark truth of climbing! Tall people have it easy.

And let's not forget about time, time will be a factor. Time is a factor, we must talk about all the times time has been a factor. Time will not be a factor. Then one time, at band camp Anak timed out. No it wasn't one time, it must be two times, three times, several times, many times. If only these climbers stopped hanging around and fiddling the holds. So they could start their engines and motor their way to the top. Then we all would have a good time. Time for an additional beer.

(With that said, I like the quirky British lingo, but just not on repeat).
OnLine Kraxler
  2018-07-29 23:35:48    
"There are both advantages and disadvantages with the 6 min rule"

Convinced me instantly...
So because it worked in 2018 doesnt mean it works better than 8 minutes.
Imagine Jessi Pilz had done just two moves more (to the big green hold). She would have been timed out an got second anyway.
It´s not thrilling or exciting to see climbers getting close to the time limit. It´s just annoying and gets worse every time it happens.
Just 2 minutes more..
To end with Jens argumentation: for me there are no advantages and a lot of disadvantages to the 6 minute rule.
OffLine Opi Brey
  2018-07-29 23:47:54    
Of course the time rule is the best. We love to watch climbers focus to check the time looking behind instead of focus on the moves.
I love that moments. I think is the best part of the event, the time checking and the speed climbing of course, the best eva.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-07-30 09:34:38    
Some think a lead final can be boring seeing the climbers copy each other and climb slow. IFSC should inform the climbers how much time is left and not have longer routes than 50 moves.
OffLine rai
  2018-07-30 10:11:59    
@Jens: who about are you refering to with "some", climbers? How many...? This 6' rule is silly; Climbing is not running...
OffLine J. Smith
  2018-07-30 13:26:42    
One of the greatest of all possible stupidities is if you think that your favorite sport is boring. Why the hell you don't choose another sport and let the others enjoy the "boring" one?
We're all more or less pressed by time during the whole life. Sport climbing was one of the methods how to run from each day time pressure. Reaching the highest point or even top no mater to time or number of trials is or was a goal of all climbers.
And now a bunch of ****** want to destroy that.
They already have time in speed. 1% of climbers is interested in speed. And definitely speed climbing is the most boring thing connected to sport climbing. I've used these words because speed climbing has absolutely nothing to do with sport climbing.
OffLine Lucas M
  2018-07-30 14:18:49    
Time rule polemics aside, I think the fact that Alberto Ginés (being 15, and being his first senior world cup) made it into the finals and finished 7th, should be pointed out. That's completely outstanding given how incredibly strong the top guys are.