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Forum: SWE / News / XXL 8c+ by Laurent Vigouroux (40) Login in to contribute
XXL 8c+ by Laurent Vigouroux (40)
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-10-07 00:00:00    
Laurent Vigouroux has done his eight 8c+, XXL in Calanques meaning he has reached a new All time High. One more 8c and he is #2 in the 40+ ranking game.

"I have spent 12 winter seasons on it (probably more than 120 days and more than 450 tries) to complete it! I have fallen at the very last section around 18 times. In fact, there is a mantle which is not so hard (7b route) after the crux section but there is no rest and it asks a good resistance. I had to train differently and change my climbing style to be able to send it. For me, it was more a mental battle for not giving up and stay motivated, for staying strong enough all along these years. Happy to do it 7 days before my 40th birthday.

In twelve years my "climbing" has evolved a lot. I have more experience, more technics and more mental resources. I'm also better understanding the climbing sport in its scientific components. I'm researcher in Faculty of Sport Sciences in Marseille and part of my work addresses to climbing sciences. Surprisingly, I'm also feeling in better physical shape than 12 years ago. I have more power, more resistance even if I expected the contrary!

The key point for succeeding in this route was to re-began to climb indoor. In fact since I'm twenty, I climb 90% outdoor. But 3 years ago with the opening of the indoor gym "mur de Luminy" just next to my office, I re-began to climb indoor on more modern routes. That gave me first a push for physical training but it learned me to fight more when your are completely pumped. This way, I understood how to manage this final section in spite of muscle fatigue."
Click to Enlarge Picture
OnLine rai
  2018-10-07 22:28:23    
Bravo Laurent! Les ardéchois de Rompon en exil sont fiers de toi...!!!!
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2018-10-08 12:25:27    
Fight more when you are completely pumped - what a great training tip. Thanks a lot.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-10-08 12:31:09    
I totally understand Laurent. Indoors you will more frequent face challenges where you can fight being totally pumped in comparison to outdoors. Indoors, the route are more even without cruxes. Outdoors the holds are often more sharp or with cruxes.
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2018-10-08 15:35:05    
In sports science terms the physiological part of training like this is called energy system training, and it targets the anaerobic lactic system. It is the least trainable of the three energy systems, and the system most climbers train too much. Hence not very useful information, I would say.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-10-08 15:55:49    
And what about the mental part of the training, understanding and believing that it is possible to stick one more move. Outdoors this might be harder and more seldom to train meanwhile it happens all the time indoor. Anyhow, he thinks this was part of the success.
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2018-10-08 16:36:13    
Quite the contrary, I would say - this mental aspect is better trained outside on hard projects, because you need to be extremely motivated to be able to dig this deep, and most people don't manage to get this extreme motivation on an indoor route.

Anyway, great climbing effort by a very good climber, but as training information goes, the text above is quite useless.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-10-08 16:45:15    
It is possibly meaningless for you. Obviously it had great impact for Laurent and possible for some others. It is impossible to please everyone :)
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2018-10-08 18:47:12    
Jens, I'm not asking you to please everyone - just ME ;-)