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Forum: SWE / News / From Dirt Grows... 8C by Christof Rauch Login in to contribute
From Dirt Grows... 8C by Christof Rauch
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-01-28 00:00:00    
Christof Rauch, who the last year has done 150 boulders 8A and harder, has done his eight 8C, From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico. (c) David Pilaj

"Finally! Should have done it on the last day of my New Years trip but messed it up 6 times at the mantle. Tried it 2 times a few years back but couldn’t do this nasty mantle. This year it felt much better and I managed to send it on my 5 sessions of the year. Such an iconic line established by the master Dave Graham! More than happy to put it down!"

Interesting is that Christof works full time as an engine-building technician and electrician in a waterplant. Chatting on Facebook with him 23.12 asking for pictures and comments he said he had to go to sleep as he had to wake up 05.45. Here are some comments we have gotten earlier.

- I would say that my secret is my nearly endless motivation and that I'm not afraid about driving far for some new boulders. ;-) After my work I go climbing outside or train in a little gym once or twice a week. Almost every weekend I go climbing outdoors.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Jean-Baptiste Jourjon
  2019-01-29 00:05:15    
It's interesting to put into perspective the ascents with the age of climbers for instance, but regarding professional status it would be quicker to indicate when a climber is a pro than indicating the opposite, as most are non-professionals. But what does professional means in fact ? Some climbers don't have brand sponsoring but have in fact money from family. Sometimes both in fact. Rare are the top climbers who didn't have family support at key moments of a starting climbing carreer. Also, is having a job such a big constraint in comparison with pro-climber life that also has many constraints and often unsecure future ? Isn't family with kids having worse effect on performances ? It would be nice to have sociological studies on all those phenomena instead of spreading the idea that working climbers are more deserving, especially when your information is not verified: do you think Vadim, for which you say he has no sponsors, did it for free ? https://www.redbull.com/int-en/tv/video/AP-1QRW9UUNN2111/vadim-timonov To my opinion, having a secured not too-stressful job and being single offers quite good conditions for performance. It's also noticeable that all those "working guys" are from countries with high standards of living.
OffLine Chaz-O
  2019-01-29 07:30:38    
Everyone's experience is different. For me personally, working full time is great for training strength and power since longer resting periods are required to make gains. This makes bouldering compatible with most careers. Sport climbing can be more difficult because more frequent training is required and the logistics are often more difficult, such as reliance on partners and the duration of each attempt.

Working full time also does wonders for motivation. When I only climb on weekends, my stoke is through the roof all the time. When I live at the crag and climb every day that I want to, my motivation is much less and I put in less effort per day. Perhaps Christof's "endless motivation" is a result of his career!
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-01-29 08:48:18    
Do you not think Christof and other climbers working full time would have appreciated and also climb more hard routes and boulders if they only had to work full time?

Do you think many of the Olympic gold medal winners are working full time. What about Ronaldo? Do you not think he is a better fotball player as he does not have to wake up 05.45 in the morning. Instead he can sleep as long as he wants, take it easy play with his kids and then go to the Juventus arena for training or playing a match.
OffLine Thomas Lindinger
  2019-01-31 17:53:50    
I agree with Jens and think that Chris would have climbed even more hard stuff if he didn't have to work full time to make a living! That is of course the same for others who don't have the opportunity to climb full time.
OffLine Jean-Baptiste Jourjon
  2019-01-31 18:39:29    
I'm not saying he wouldn't be stronger, each case is specific. I just said that as most climbers are not professionals, it would be faster to indicate who is pro than who isn't.
I also said 8a to check information, being pro or not isn't so obvious, and what does it means really ? Some people make a lot of money by not so much work, so with lot of time to train and money to travel. Some others are "pros" as they don't work, but they are so poor that they can't even train correctly or travel.
When you say pro or not pro you all think a pro is a person with comfortable standard of living who can train and eat correctly, and travel everywhere everytime with no constraints. This is not reality and sometimes it's better having a job, comfortable salary and little less time to climb, than more time and lots of uncertainties.
Many strong climbers are even stronger when they become parents, whereas for sure they have less time for climbing. It's a matter of mindset. When you don't know what next year will be made of, and when you fear injuries every climbing day because everything relies on it, I'm not sure you're in the best conditions for performances.