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Forum: SWE / Editorial / Slovenia should be in the sports book of record Login in to contribute
Slovenia should be in the sports book of record
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-10-06 00:00:00    
Slovenia has for many years been one of the leading competition climbing nations in the world. This is nothing but remarkable as they only have 2 million inhabitants and also that they have few big climbing gyms. At the same time as the indoor scene is booming, Slovenia has not been so much part of it and instead their success comes based on many small rather old-school gyms.

Martina Cufar won the Lead World Championship in 2001 and since, their Lead female team has been more or less #1 in the world for 17 years straight. During the latest years also, especially their male Boulderers, have showed amazing progress. In the National Team ranking 2018, Slovenia was #2 in Boulder and they are also currently #2 in Lead.

Is there anybody who could come up with an explanation who a relatively poor country with 2 million inhabitants with few no big modern indoor climbing facilities could be so successful? Is old-school gyms peppered with holds better in comparison to less (colorful) holds in the modern gyms? We know that some train extremely structured mainly doing endurance circles on super small walls. At the same time, they have Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder WC 2018 but mainly climbs long routes outdoors.

Instead, the most striking thing talking to several athletes and coaches during the last 15 years, is how young they start and the number of climbing hours they put in. Most schools actually have a small wall and most of the best did actually start before they were eight years old. Already being 12 years old, it is quite normal to do several competitions and climb 15-20 hours a week out of which a big portion outdoors. Slovenia is also known for having a great team spirit. Finally, climbing has a very high sport status in Slovenia. (c) Luka Fonda
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OffLine Miha
  2018-10-08 09:59:22    
Who are you calling " relatively poor country"!!!
OffLine BOR
  2018-10-08 10:15:57    
Good question. Prices in Slovenia are insane. Italy is cheaper...
OffLine Bojan
  2018-10-08 11:16:01    
>"Already being 12 years old, it is quite normal to do several competitions and climb 15-20 hours a week out of which a big portion outdoors"

Where do you get this?
No, it's not normal to train 15-20 h/week before you are in senior category, and almost all of the youth training is indoors.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-10-08 11:21:07    
Relatively poor to western Europe it seems :) Possibly this relatively poorness can explain why there are so few modern expensive gyms in Slovenia.

The text has been checken and given ok from three Slovenian coaches and athletes before been published.
OffLine John Render
  2018-10-08 12:59:31    
Does "quite normal" mean most 12-year-old climbers?

Does "several competitions" mean each week? Each month?

Did three Slovenian coaches plus three Slovenian athletes approve the article? i.e. did six people approve it, or did three?

It would help IMO if Jens would name his sources.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-10-08 13:28:00    
As we are talking about the very best, "quite normal" obviously do not refer to most 12-year-old's.

"Several competitions" every year.

I had three persons approving the article but will not give the sources but you can guess one of them :)
OffLine Gorazd Hren
  2018-10-08 14:57:33    
Now I'm also curious who is the source?

Gorazd
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-10-08 18:33:27    
I have understood that this article have created some questions and the article have been edited.

Most important is that the 15-20 hours per week also include outdoor meaning - It is quite normal that the best train/climb 10 hours a week indoors + 5 to 10 hours outdoors.

I do not think this extreme. What would have been extreme and considered over training is 20 hours indoor training per week.
OffLine Primoz Zupancic
  2018-10-11 15:40:10    
Yeah, but the main question remains unanswered - who are your sources, Jens? You see, when Gorazd asks who the sources are, then there's clearly something wrong with the whole story. Unless the phrase "during the last 15 years" actually means "15 years ago".
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-10-11 16:33:16    
Why is something wrong? What is wrong with what I have written?
OffLine Steve
  2018-10-11 19:35:34    
Why not write such an article as an interview with the people you talked to? That would be such a higher quality...
OffLine John Render
  2018-10-11 23:30:06    
@ Jens, the changes you made improved the article. One issue I still have is the anonymous sources. Why is it a big deal to name the people who describe Slovenian youth training? Especially in this case, where a regular contributor (Bojan) says it's not so?
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-10-12 08:00:55    
I have asked the sources and they do not want to be mentioned and we have to respect that. One source were interviewed just like ten days ago, Ema Seliskar.

"I train 5 times in a week 3 or 4 hours a day. I love training because every training is different and fun also because of my teammate Lucija Tarkuš and my trainer Boštjan Potočnik."