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 By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2009-04-28  | Category: Interviews    | Comment  
 8a.nu
Gorges du Tarn - Bild av Jonas Ahlman
Kila vidare i Solvik. Bild av Shawn Boye.
Crackoholic, 8a i Ulorna. Bild av Shawn Boye
Scott Mooney är den i 8a medlem i Sverige som levererar mest på rep, 870 leder 7b+ och är reggade. Han verkar för det mesta vara på resande fot och verkar  ha 8a och 8a+ på andra försöket som sin specialitet. Bästa klättringen tycker han finns i Frankenjura och runt Katalonien och i Sverige är det "Bästkusten" som gäller. På resande fot kollar han innan vilka leder som är bäst enligt databasen. Sedan en månad är det familjeresor som gäller och förra helgen tickades det som vanligt i Väst och nästkommande helg planeras Västkustresa igen.

What is your best advice to the average climber?
Climb as much as possible and on routes of diverse styles. Have fun.

Do you train and how?
I don't have nor have had any systematical training program/approach, just climbing! I boulder indoors during the winter months, then climb outside from spring until autumn.

Why do you not boulder?
I do. I've taken plenty of bouldering trips and have spent some years in the past mostly bouldering. Bouldered up to 8a+, just do not register anything on 8a. Would add Castle Hill basin as one of my favourite destinations too.

Which are the Top-5 routes in Sweden?
Its hard to think back to every route and list "The Top-5". Plenty of cool moves or something special can be found on a lot of routes and then there's the routes I've seen, know or heard are really good that i have not tried or climbed yet. Anyway here's a few really good routes that I've climbed:
7c Holidays in Eden (20+m of great varied face climbing) - Dödskalleberget
8a Crack-o-holic (A prime line on superb rock) - Ulorna
8a Mad Rock (Nice & steep with different moves for Swedish granite climbing) - Granitgrottan
8b Frontline (Cool! has a bit of everything) - Häller
7b+ Akapella (Great pumpy climbing) - Solvik


How many years have you been climbing?
Many. Started when i was 17ish, so that makes it about 16 years.

Which is the best crag in the world/Sweden?
Its hard to say one specific crag since there are so many great places and routes, but i really like it in the Frankenjura and around Catalunya a lot.
As for Sweden, again not a specific crag but definitely around Bohuslän.

How do you use the 8a database when you are traveling?
Good for checking out what's the most popular/BEST (i would hope) routes.

When and Why did you move to Sweden?
I moved to Sweden to live with my girlfriend Maria first in 2002, then back to New Zealand until returning again in 2004.

When will you move to the West Coast?
One day it will happen.

What is a memorable epic in your climbing life?
Walking up to Ceuse.

8a.nu