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 By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2011-11-15  | Category: Tips & Tricks    | Comment  

In the old days, redpointing was the game and many spent years and trained specifically to do the project. When Wolfgang Güllich opened Action Directe, 9a in Frankenjura in 1991, he had spent a whole winter training specifically doing 1- and 2-finger moves and to do this he invented the campus board.

When he started to project the route he could not even hang in some holds so he spent a whole winter building the specific maximum strength needed. It should be noted that it has been said that campus board is dangerous for the non-expert due to injuries. (c) Thomas Ballenberger, Nürnberg 1991.

Today the new generation benefits from a hugh number of different climbs making it more interesting to always go for new challenges that can be solved onsight or within some few days. But if you want to make a personal best it is just jump one or two grades and start projecting and create a replica in your indoor gym.